Lower Control Arms Dos and Donts

CTt3P5

TAD
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2016 GT ST 47A
Hey guys and girls, car just failed inspection due to bad ball joints so I'll be replacing the LCAs here soon. Didn't see a particular how-to thread for this but do have the service manual in hand as a reference. I'll be soaking everything in PB Blaster in hopes of getting the rusted bolts off easier. Was just wondering if anyone has any tips and tricks that might help along the way. Also, what brands you prefer or to stay away from. I was on Rockauto and see the Beck/Arnley are favorites but found they have some mixed reviews by members here. Are the Moogs worth the extra?
 
I used the Moog arms when I did mine not that long ago. I figured it's such an ordeal to do them, I might as well do them right. If you're having trouble getting the new ones in, just switch whichever bolt you're trying to get started. On one side i had the easiest time starting from the front bolt, and on the other I wound up getting the rear bolt started first. Also make sure to only put each bolt in hand tight until you have all of them started and then tighten them up.
 
A guy on my forum (clubmazdaquebec) sells a pair of "Hardrace" LCAs and I heard good comments for these!

If you want, you can also put some urethane bushings on your new LCAs. There's Whiteline and Pedders that makes these bushings.
 
You can also keep your lca's and just replace all the bushings with urethane ones and replace the ball joints with new ones if you have the time and patience to do so
 
Just had a local shop change out both LCAs on my P5 a couple weeks back. I purchased the Dorman ones off Amazon for about $100 shipped and paid about $80 for labor.
 
I replaced just the ball joints on my car for $40. No places sell just the BJ's except the one online retailer I used. I don't recall the name, but I got the info from this forum. Try a search. You can do the job using the Autozone rental ball joint press.

Without looking at my records, I have had these ball joints for 40,000 miles.

Having to buy an entire control arm just for a ball joint is ridiculous.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. Still not sure which route I'm going just yet. Replacing the ball joints themselves is a MUCH cheaper option but wondering if there is a chance there could be too much play in my existing LCA to make this a moot point? Mech didn't mention the bushings but I'm guessing they are close to being toast themselves so would be a good idea to replace them if I go the ball joint only route. And seeing that the bolts will more than likely give me grief, I plan on ordering OEM replacements to have on hand. If I don't need them I can always send them back. Anyone have experience with the brackets being a PITA? Wondering if I should order a pair of those as well.

I used the Moog arms when I did mine not that long ago. I figured it's such an ordeal to do them, I might as well do them right. If you're having trouble getting the new ones in, just switch whichever bolt you're trying to get started. On one side i had the easiest time starting from the front bolt, and on the other I wound up getting the rear bolt started first. Also make sure to only put each bolt in hand tight until you have all of them started and then tighten them up.

These are def. a premium over the overs but a bargain at $125 from Firestone's price. Got a quote of over $400 for one from them if they did the work. They replaced my DS LCA just under 2yrs ago, I couldn't do the work as I was still in PT from injuries suffered from a hit & run accident with a tractor trailer. The part they used at that time was $199.99 and is now $249.99 but would be covered under their "lifetime warranty" until the 19th of this month. Apparently their "lifetime warranty" is only on specific parts which isn't mentioned on the invoice. The Moogs get the lifetime warranty but at four times the cost of buying them myself and almost twice as much as OEM! OTD price for Firestone to do it with the DS covered under warranty is $422 and this is the same part that didn't make it two years or 26K miles without failing. Think I'll pass.

Just had a local shop change out both LCAs on my P5 a couple weeks back. I purchased the Dorman ones off Amazon for about $100 shipped and paid about $80 for labor.

So $100 for both sides? I was looking on Amazon but having trouble finding a Dorman specific for the P5. If so, that's not a bad deal at all.

A guy on my forum (clubmazdaquebec) sells a pair of "Hardrace" LCAs and I heard good comments for these!

If you want, you can also put some urethane bushings on your new LCAs. There's Whiteline and Pedders that makes these bushings.

You can also keep your lca's and just replace all the bushings with urethane ones and replace the ball joints with new ones if you have the time and patience to do so

I replaced just the ball joints on my car for $40. No places sell just the BJ's except the one online retailer I used. I don't recall the name, but I got the info from this forum. Try a search. You can do the job using the Autozone rental ball joint press.

Without looking at my records, I have had these ball joints for 40,000 miles.

Having to buy an entire control arm just for a ball joint is ridiculous.

97 626 ball joints slide right in and are much cheaper per pair than replacing whole LCAs.

Duly noted guys and this is MUCH cheaper than replacing the LCAs. Think I'd pay a shop to press them in/out though alone with the new bushings if I went this route. As for the Hardrace and urethane...not really looking to upgrade since she has 180K and the keys will be going to my daughter soon, just looking for something nice for a dd. Although with the money saved replacing just the ball joints (~$10 vs. ~$200), I could justify buying the Pedders or Whiteline bushings......(evil)
 
Thank you Hank!

For s**** and giggles I ordered the five bolts per side for each LCA from mazda-parts.com this afternoon. More than likely one will break or be stripped in the process.
 
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Awesome. I need to do this soon. The passenger side is shot and I'm sure the driver side is too. Take photo's no matter whatcha do!
 
Thank you Hank!

For s**** and giggles I ordered the five bolts per side for each LCA from mazdaparts.org this afternoon. More than likely one will break or be stripped in the process.

can you list those part numbers? i might just order up all new hardware when i go to swap mine.
 
You can also keep your lca's and just replace all the bushings with urethane ones and replace the ball joints with new ones if you have the time and patience to do so
How do you know what size urethane bushing to get?
 
Left work early to pick my daughter up from school so took advantage of the daylight and jacked the front end up and sprayed all the bolts down with PB Blaster and then sprayed them down again. One question for you guys though, what is best way to remove the ball joint section from the steering knuckle? I sprayed down the bolt (#2, step 2 listed in the service manual) but if it sticks there is no way to tap on it from the top with the axle in the way or would I tap it from the bottom? Sorry, first time ever replacing ball joints and there is no mention of this in the manual, simply remove bolt 2 in illustration and then move on to the four in the bracket.

Awesome. I need to do this soon. The passenger side is shot and I'm sure the driver side is too. Take photo's no matter whatcha do!

I'll see what I can do for ya.

can you list those part numbers? i might just order up all new hardware when i go to swap mine.

Sure, here they are and I could have sworn there were five total but only got numbers for four. Again ordered from mazdaparts.org and total shipped to NJ was $61.24:

Pinch Bolt (x2) (when I ordered I thought this was the bolt found in the front bushing but I'm now thinking this is the one used in the steering knuckle) - GJ21-34-098A

Bracket Bolts (x2) - 9GCB70255 / 9YA021231C / 96A001210 / H380-34-318B

I'm going to call again tomorrow to verify that pinch bolt and get the part# for that fifth one.

How do you know what size urethane bushing to get?

C r o s s o v e r a u t o.com sells the Pedders for $115 a set just to give you an idea of price. Haven't looked up whiteline to see what they run. Might be worth a PM to CR3 Motorsports to see if he can get them and if so at what price.
 
Thanks JT....by chance are you running the Whitelines in yours currently or going to when you replace them? I'll post up tomorrow after I call MedCenter Mazda with that other part#.
 
have stock bushings but will be replacing with the Whitelines and new balljoints this winter for the front suspension and redoing all of the hardware and lateral arms for the rears. Need to make good use of my new garage this winter for some maintenance and playing with the P5.
 
Left work early to pick my daughter up from school so took advantage of the daylight and jacked the front end up and sprayed all the bolts down with PB Blaster and then sprayed them down again. One question for you guys though, what is best way to remove the ball joint section from the steering knuckle? I sprayed down the bolt (#2, step 2 listed in the service manual) but if it sticks there is no way to tap on it from the top with the axle in the way or would I tap it from the bottom? Sorry, first time ever replacing ball joints and there is no mention of this in the manual, simply remove bolt 2 in illustration and then move on to the four in the bracket.
I used this with my Honda Civic.
ball-joint-tool.jpg



C r o s s o v e r a u t o.com sells the Pedders for $115 a set just to give you an idea of price. Haven't looked up whiteline to see what they run. Might be worth a PM to CR3 Motorsports to see if he can get them and if so at what price.
Thanks.
 
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