Urgent! Impending Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Failure? 2015 CX-5

For my 2016 CX-5 with 163K miles, I got the replacement Beck Arnley LCA from Rock Auto for $110 each, I read from Amazon that the Dorman brand had fitment issues for some customers and that the Beck Arnley were a perfect fit ...strange thing is they have the Mazda p/n listed below the Beck Arnley part numbers on the boxes. I'm a newbie, so I don't know if that is industry standard to list OEM p/n on aftermarket parts. So, maybe I'm making a big deal out of nothing but just strange to see Mazda's p/n on the Beck Arnley boxes
Mazda p/n KD35-34-350S Left Lower Control Arm
Mazda p/n KD35-34-300S Right Lower Control Arm

Upon closer inspection, the bushing looks exactly the same as OEM, there is a stamp "A=E44R"
so not sure if Beck Arnley is the OEM supplier but it looks very close to be OEM, I just can't confirm 100%. just sharing and trying to help fellow members save a couple of hundred buck, OEM are like $200 a piece or $400 total...

View attachment 323984
View attachment 323985
View attachment 323986
Thanks for the info. Are these Beck/Arnley’s LCAs made in Taiwan said on the label? If that is the case, these LCAs can’t be from OEM parts supplier as there’s no Mazda assembly plants in Taiwan.

But it’s good to know Beck/Arnley’s LCAs are having high quality and looks like the OEM.
 
so yeah, my 2016 CX-5 is up to 163,000 miles. I had local shop replace both LCA and outer tie rods. both LCA rubber bushings were cracked and broken, the LCA ball joint was in bad shape. The outer tie rod rubber were both cracked. This was expected at 163K. I just got it done because I didn't want to deal with ball joint failures while driving.

BTW, no fitment issues using the Beck Arnley LCA from Rock Auto for $110 each (part numbers 102-7956 and 102-7955), they fit perfectly like OEM, so save a couple of hundred dollars if you buy from Rock Auto vs OEM.

For the outer tie rods, I went with Moog p/n ES801390 same for both sides, it comes with grease fittings, so I can add grease during routine maintenance.

View attachment 323992


View attachment 323993
View attachment 323995
Honestly I was surprised to see these ball joint and tie-rod end problems happen on a 7 ~ 8-year-old 2016 CX-5, even though yours has 163K miles. We’ve seen those failing at ~60K miles in these 2 related threads here. And @Pitter in Colombia had most front suspension parts replaced at 33K miles on his 2020 CX-5 Sig.

CX-5 Feels squirrelly

In recent incident there’s a broken LCA ball joint reported here on a 2K-mile 2023 CX-50!

Control Arm Sheers off on a 2023 CX-50 with 2k miles

For comparison, my 1998 Honda CR-V EX AWD with 190K mikes still has original LCA ball joints and tie-rod ends (and they are still as tight as they can be), although I did replace all rubber boots (and re-grease them) at 178K miles since Honda does sell those for replacement.
 
Well, I wish I knew about this corroded ball joint thing. ( WTF MAZDA?)
My left ball joint detached without warning on a Rt. 95 off ramp going 45mph.
VERY lucky no one was killed. Now I'm definately changing out the other side.

This is a particularly DANGEROUS problem because the ball joint still feels/sounds fine but the steel collar that holds it corroded and failed without warning. It also broke the cv axle off and the control arm ground away on the spokes of my alloy wheel.

I already replaced the cv axle and control arm. Not a terrible job but close. Definately need a decent impact gun for the control arm bolts and a propane torch to get the balljoint pin loose. Car has 110k and has been great otherwise. Parts were around $400 from NAPA. Now I'm doing the passenger side as a precaution so $170 more.
 

Attachments

  • mazda1.jpg
    mazda1.jpg
    105.1 KB · Views: 40
  • mazda2.jpg
    mazda2.jpg
    107.1 KB · Views: 40
  • mazda2b.jpg
    mazda2b.jpg
    18.2 KB · Views: 40
Last edited:
Back