Leaking Shock?

i've gotta go in to get the other rear strut replaced now... defective part again... on backorder...
 
So the shock came in and took the car back to the dealer. After waiting for a little more than an hour, I was 'shocked' (how ironic) when they told me that they replaced the right side. I earlier reported the noise coming from the rear driver side but the mechanic said he heard it from the right rear (which was the passenger side). The mechanic said that he road tested it and it was fine. At this point, I was hesistant to take back the car because I know that the noise would still be there. So after I drove it, the noise is still there. So I told them about it and they said they will order the shock for the other side. They estimated another two weeks to get the part.:mad:
 
I've had the crunching noise on the driver's rear side since day one. Same with the clanging noise when it's filled up with either gear or people or gear and people (kids and small adults) going over a road bump in our complex in a crawl. I haven't noticed any leaks though. But the dealership has bullshitted me everytime saying they couldn't find anything wrong. I was probably the first who complained about this type of problem (mine is a 2006 model). So I'm a little relieved that I wasn't imagining things. I'm going back to the dealership again and once and for all point this out to them. If they continue to play f* dumb again I'm going to take my friend's offer to replace my warped rotors and shocks himself. He does these things himself. I've had it with these con men.
 
We've had a couple 5's in for blown shocks. Hasn't happened to mine... yet. Due to the backorders, I'm thinking this is a more common problem than we think.
Time for a recall, Mazda?
 
I had a popping noise going over speed bumps and through dips between streets where I live. I just had them re-torque my cowl panel bolts.

isda65 said:
I've had the crunching noise on the driver's rear side since day one. Same with the clanging noise when it's filled up with either gear or people or gear and people (kids and small adults) going over a road bump in our complex in a crawl. I haven't noticed any leaks though. But the dealership has bullshitted me everytime saying they couldn't find anything wrong. I was probably the first who complained about this type of problem (mine is a 2006 model). So I'm a little relieved that I wasn't imagining things. I'm going back to the dealership again and once and for all point this out to them. If they continue to play f* dumb again I'm going to take my friend's offer to replace my warped rotors and shocks himself. He does these things himself. I've had it with these con men.
 

Attachments

  • pop noise fix - mtol4948.jpg
    pop noise fix - mtol4948.jpg
    188.7 KB · Views: 218
Replace both shocks??

Noticed a clunk in driver's rear for past few weeks and finally got a chance to take a look. Drivers rear strut/shock is covered with oil and when the car is on the jack I can recreate the clunk by raising wheel with prybar. Will be speaking with dealer tomorrow, should I be looking to get both done on warranty. Vehicle has 42000km. A number of suspension forums highly recommend replacement of both.

1) If one is done the other is probably not far behind.
2) By only replacing one it will adversly affect the handling dynamics
3) The new shock will wear out faster as it will be taking on some of the work that the weaker one should be doing.
4) Its also suggested that tire wear may be an issue if only one is replaced.

Benfolio suggested that the problem my be wide spread as the availability of parts is slim. Any thoughts on how to influence dealer to replace both, has anyone had both done?
 
Last edited:
Bit of a bump from the dead here.

I have adopted mechanics duties on a coworkers '02 MP5.

She is complaining of a rear clunk in the back (similarly described by the OP). The car has about 60k on it. I've driven the car several times and can confirm.

Without inspecting the shock/strut tubes for obvious damage/leaks, is there indeed a history of defective struts on these cars? Does the tophat need to be done too?

If so, point me in the direction of a thread that has play-by-play DIY pictures to change the struts. (ie what plastic interior parts do you need to get to the top hats, O-drive socket set needed, etc)

Subaru's have a similar defect on the STI strut, but it is because of a bad tophat.
 
Back