Knocking noise from 06 engine at idle

I hearing a knocking noise from the engine at idle. I tried to isolate it but the best I can do is determined that it is coming from the pulley side of the engine. I don't think it is the AC because the knocking persist with the AC on or off. The only other moving parts are the water pump and tensioner.

Have anyone had problems with their water pump or tensioner that resulted in a knocking noise?
 
Examine the top idler/tensioner pulley.

On the top of the idler, there is a mark @ 12'oclock. There is also a mark on the pulley side. With the engine running, watch the top of the idler, and look at the two marks. Does the knocking sound co-incide with the idler jumping?
 
Last edited:
Examine the top idler/tensioner pulley.

On the top of the idler, there is a mark @ 12'oclock. There is also a mark on the pulley side. With the engine running, watch the top of the idler, and look at the two marks. Does the knocking sound co-incide with the idler jumping?

Thanks for the reply, I will check when I get home tonight. Yesterday when I was checking, I did noticed the idler moving/pivoting but did not paid attention if it coincided with the knocking noise.
 
I had a chance to look at the car today before work. The noise is much fainter when the engine is cold and starts to get louder as the engine warms up. I still cannot isolated the noise but it does not looks like it is coming from the idler. I also checked the indicator mark on the idler to see if the drive belt has stretched too much, but it was right in between normal and max.

From the knocking noise, if this was an old car I would think it was a timing issue. Timing shouldn't be an issue for a modern car. I think I will bring the car to a mechanic next week to see if they can diagnose the problem.
 
Not sure if it might help you in your situation, but it might help others who try to isolate noises. One easy and cheap way to help isolate noises is to use a homemade mechanics stethescope.

The two tools I use for this is a length of tubing, and a stick or rod. Use either one, whatever u happen to have around.

With the tubing, heater hose, garden hose, wrapping paper tube, etc., hold one open end to your ear, and with the other open end, use it like a microphone, sweep around the engine bay.

With the stick, dowel, rod, screwdriver, pvc pipe, anything solid, etc., you can press the one end to your ear, the other end to any hard surface that you want to listen to.

I just used this method yesterday on a friend who was worried about his engine making this loud ticking. He had a broken golfclub shaft in his trunk, and using his old golfclub shaft, I pressed it against his fuel rail, and showed him that the clicking was his Fuel injectors. I then showed him how you can listen to each individual injector, and use the "tool" in diff places all the way accross the valvecover and hear the individual valve lifters, as well as hear the exhaust flowing through the exhaust manifold, etc., etc.,
 
I had a chance to look at the car today before work. The noise is much fainter when the engine is cold and starts to get louder as the engine warms up. I still cannot isolated the noise but it does not looks like it is coming from the idler. I also checked the indicator mark on the idler to see if the drive belt has stretched too much, but it was right in between normal and max.

From the knocking noise, if this was an old car I would think it was a timing issue. Timing shouldn't be an issue for a modern car. I think I will bring the car to a mechanic next week to see if they can diagnose the problem.

My old MX3 is quiet when cold and knocks when warm. It's either the friction gear or the HLAs (on mine). I'm not sure which and don't care anymore since the car has 220,000 miles on it and it has sounded like that since 140,000 with no increase in intensity from the noise.
 
I brought the car to a local mechanic on Monday to see if he can track down the noise. For some reason the knocking noise has stopped, I left the car there and after testing it yesterday and this morning the knocking noise did not present itself.

However, he did noticed that one of my front shock was leaking. The car has 118,000KM (73K miles), I guess this is pretty much around the norm for the struts, from what I have read on this forum. Anyways, the struts has been changed and the knocking noise has stopped (for now).
 
Knocking noise finally solved!!

The knocking noise is becoming very persistent and at times it sounds like I was driving a diesel. So, I brought the car to my mechanic this morning. As usual the knocking did not show it self when I restarted the car. We let it run for a bit and the knocking noise finally show up and he was able to hear it. At first his though it was the alternator, but after he had the car jacked up he found that the AC clutch was bad, the bearing was self destructing. The AC clutch needs to be replaced. This would explain why the AC would not work very well when the car comes to a stop at stop lights.

He is also going to change out the thermostat on my car because the car temp gauge when to "H" a couple of times in the last 2 weeks while stuck in traffic.

The car should be ready by tomorrow.
 
Picked up the car at lunch and the problem seems to be fixed. Without the knocking noise the car seems to run smoother and feel like it picks up a little quick which might have been caused by the defective AC clutch putting a load on the engine. It was not very hot today, only round 20C/68F, I turn the AC to 18C and the car puts out cold air at stop lights unlike before the fix.
 
Back