Kill your Turkey V.2

505zoom

Breathe
:
2003 MSP #119
Original thread: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40956

A lot has been learned in the 5 years since the original turkey kill thread. V.2 will expand on some other options, as well as clarify some of the key points. I still to this day see new threads frequently, and get multiple PM's every week about this topic, so it is obvious that there is still a need for this info on here. I am hoping that this thread can be stickied so it will be easier for people to find the information they need, without searching endlessly or starting a new thread.


Here are the different ways you can set up your BOV and/or BPV system to get the best results:

1) BOV-only - You will get the maximum amount of sound when using the BOV-only method. It is key to relocate your MAF sensor to the cold pipe to eliminate stalling. I wasn't a fan of this approach before since the MAF wasn't designed for it, but a bunch of people have proved that it holds up fine over several years, so I will eat crow in this case. There doesn't seem to be one particular "correct" place to put the BOV in this setup. People have had good results with it on the hot pipe, while others have had success putting it on the cold pipe. Only thing to make sure of is that you put your valve BEFORE the MAF (airflow direction). Also, it probably isn't a good idea to have the MAF and the BOV super close to each other, as MAF's are notorious for hating turbulence.

2) BOV/BPV - This will typically be somewhat quieter overall than the BOV-only setup... the definite middle ground out of the 3 setups. There is no need to relocate the MAF sensor, and you can again put the valves wherever you like pretty much. For the overall best results, it is a good idea to put one valve on the hot pipe, and the other on the cold pipe, although it has been proven to work with both valves on the cold pipe. You can follow the guidelines in the original thread for this setup, the idea is pretty simple and not much has changed in that regard.

3) BPV-only - This is perhaps the trickiest to get set up properly, but in my opinion it's the best way to go as far as performance goes. The sound is much quieter depending on what intake you have. The key to setting this up correctly is to use 1" or larger in/out fittings for the valve, in place of the stock 5/8" fittings. You'll need a BPV that has 1" (or larger) in/out, a 1" (or larger) fitting on the charge pipe, and a 1" (or larger) fitting on the intake. Hook it all up with 1" or larger I.D. hose. With a full 1" pathway for the air to take, you can kill the turk while recirculating ALL of that lovely compressed air. This means no stalling, and the car won't run rich after a quick shift. I have found that it works best to put the fitting for the valve on the hotpipe with this setup. You can still relocate the MAF if you like, but follow the same guidelines listed above for the BOV setup (not too close & valve before MAF).

Universal keys for all of the setups -

1) Use the brake booster line (3/8") as a signal source for the valve(s). MAKE SURE to feel around for a bulge inside of the line towards the middle. This is a one way check valve inside of the line, designed to keep your brake booster unit from seeing any positive pressure. DO NOT remove this check valve! Put your tap on the passenger (engine) side of it. You can then run a new untapped line from the intake manifold to the wastegate. This is recommended for ALL msp's!

2) Run as little hose from the charge pipe to the valve inlet as possible. Ideally, you want the valve right at the fitting. The reason for this is simple... if you have a long hose running to the valve, it is (albeit only a little) more for the turbo to pressurize when building boost. Also, if you have a long hose there... when you vent, it is possible that the valve will only vent the pressure that has built up in the hose itself, meaning the air in the charge piping doesn't vent as much as it would with a shorter hose. Not venting the charge pipes sufficiently is what causes the surge in the first place, so this is something you definitely want to avoid. The hose from the valve to the intake can be a little longer if needed, but avoid making them ridiculously long as this can introduce some stalling trouble.

3) No kinks or harsh bends in the hose to and from the BPV. Simple here, you want the smoothest unrestricted path you can have.

............

I will try harder to update this thread with any new info. The old one is very outdated as far as pics/videos/info goes, and for that I apologize. Here are some newer pics and videos of different setups to give ideas to anyone who needs them (thank you to the people who's videos/pics I stole for this):

BOV only:

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attachment.php



BOV/BPV:

http://www.msprotege.com/members/505zoom/mov00540.mpg

25jan8.jpg



BPV only:

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DSC01513.JPG



If anyone has anything to add, please post up or PM me!
 
thanks for this new thread im still going with the bpv only, i love the sound
 
^no not the stock bpv the setup with the larger inlet outlet bpv and larger fittings on the hotpipe and intake to get rid of the turkey. I am saying I like the sound of the bpv over the sound provided by a bov.

edit: nevermind, i re-read your post and now i get it. lol
 
had a strange one happen to me a few days ago.

with only a cone filter on the OEM piping and intake with OEM BPV, i had a leak.. but that leak would make the OEM bpv go woooosh. when i found and fixed the leak.. turkey was back. the leak was , get this : the drain bolt on the OEM SMIC.. it fell off by itself.

my theory is that if you get a fitting to screw into the place of the bolt, and then you install a bpv on the fitting and you got a dual bpv setup, one on the pipes and one on the SMIC.. and no more turky and a whoosh. :)

i know it sounds ghetto but it isin't that bad..
 
Fr0st, I currently have the same problem but this occurred originally when I had an upgraded smic and pipes so went back to stock. I still have the same issue with the stock steup + cone. It gives me the woosh and loss of power...

I'm just wiating on my fittings for my vibrant vac block to come in so I can replace all lines..

had a strange one happen to me a few days ago.

with only a cone filter on the OEM piping and intake with OEM BPV, i had a leak.. but that leak would make the OEM bpv go woooosh. when i found and fixed the leak.. turkey was back. the leak was , get this : the drain bolt on the OEM SMIC.. it fell off by itself.

my theory is that if you get a fitting to screw into the place of the bolt, and then you install a bpv on the fitting and you got a dual bpv setup, one on the pipes and one on the SMIC.. and no more turky and a whoosh. :)

i know it sounds ghetto but it isin't that bad..
 
Fr0st, I currently have the same problem but this occurred originally when I had an upgraded smic and pipes so went back to stock. I still have the same issue with the stock steup + cone. It gives me the woosh and loss of power...

I'm just wiating on my fittings for my vibrant vac block to come in so I can replace all lines..

where did you buy the fittings? i need them too
 
Looks like I'll be going the BPV-only route. Seems to be MUCH more affordable than a BOV+flange+whatever else, and eliminates all stalling. Seems to also be the easiest to set up. Two vac hoses, a bit of custom welding work and voila. Sure it's not very loud, but... I never was the show-off type. :)

If anyone else is looking for the BoostSciences RDV:
http://www(dot)boostsciences(dot)com/reflex(dot)html
 
my theory is that if you get a fitting to screw into the place of the bolt, and then you install a bpv on the fitting and you got a dual bpv setup, one on the pipes and one on the SMIC.. and no more turky and a whoosh. :)

i know it sounds ghetto but it isin't that bad..

That idea would work in theory, but good luck hooking up a valve to that extra hole on the stock intercooler. :) Since the opening is so small, you would see much better benefits from going a different route.

505 Zoom reccomends the boostsciences RDV, Any BPV or RDV with 1" inlet/outlet or higher should work

Just to clarify, this is correct here. :)

Seems to also be the easiest to set up. Two vac hoses, a bit of custom welding work and voila. Sure it's not very loud, but... I never was the show-off type. :)

I know many that would argue with you on that one, but I am not one of them. I think that the larger BPV setup is awesome, but I understand the whole different strokes for different folks thing. That's why I aimed this thread towards exploring the 3 different methods, without spotlighting any particular one.
 
does the forge motorsports BPV have a 1" inlet/outlet?

Im thinking no, here is what their site says:

"Do you like stealthy performance? Then the FMSP02 is a perfect solution. With an identical orientation and look as the OEM valve, the MSP02 offers a higher level of performance and quiet operation.

With an available black anodized finish, the MSP02 is almost indistinguishable from its OEM counterpart however you’ll notice improved throttle response, better boost handling capacity and quicker spool recovery. Machined from Billet aluminum the MSP02 is completely tunable and serviceable to keep up with your modifications as they progress.

Installation is simple and takes less than 10 minutes requiring no modification to the factory plumbing"

the part about identical orientation and look as oem and the no modification to factory plumbing required, leads me to believe that the inlet/outlet are the same size as the stock bpv
 
when it comes to vac lines is there any advantage to "lined" vac lines over un-lined?
 
If your vac block uses NPT thread, and you want a little extra bling, you can snag the same fittings I have from a place called rex marine. Chrome 90* NPT-barb. Kinda pricey (6-7 bucks a pop), but they look a million times better than a straight brass barb sticking out of it.

Apr21pics2.JPG

vacblock1.JPG


Only thing to consider if you think about going with the 90* fittings is make sure there is enough room between each one of them on your vac block. If the holes are too close to each other, you won't be able to screw the fittings in. The elbow on one will hit another one that you already screwed in. Mine was super close, so I put in the outer two fittings, and then cut 2 barbs off of the center fitting (leaving just one for the hose to grab). Barely worked.

when it comes to vac lines is there any advantage to "lined" vac lines over un-lined?

Lined hose is good, it helps keep the hose from collapsing. What you want to avoid is the very mushy soft silicone stuff... no good for BOV setups (and wastegate signals).

You can get un-lined hose that holds up fine... so to answer your question, no, there isn't any real "advantage" to using it for this application, unless comparing it directly to the soft silicone.
 
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