How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

I did it, but it didn't help at all. I can't see how anyone really cleaned it. It may be just me. How and what did you all use to clean it. If you can't clean out the crud around the niddle and open the air way then just cleaning the main holes wont do much. Or maybe mine wasn't as bad as the others. Any ways let me know.
 
Hughes412 said:
I did it, but it didn't help at all. I can't see how anyone really cleaned it. It may be just me. How and what did you all use to clean it. If you can't clean out the crud around the niddle and open the air way then just cleaning the main holes wont do much. Or maybe mine wasn't as bad as the others. Any ways let me know.

I just used some brake cleaner and a wire(not steel) brush. I may have used some carb cleaner too, I can't remember. I say use carb cleaner. lol Do an initial flush of the whole thing, then let whatever you end up using to clean it soak for a while. Then rinse it out and repeat. I didn't get all the crud out, and I noticed a difference.
 
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yeah, I`ve seen jflo brand gauges on the net somewhere. Well, this problem is really pissin` me off now. If there is an IAC problem, it sounds like I shouldn`t take it apart probably. Any other ideas or solutions? Or should I take the IAC off? OR, would this be covered under warranty? I`m not sure the dealer would do it for me, but they might if it`s legitimately covered. I have warranty left.

jflo said:
huh ? i know not of the gauges you speak. are they a kind of brand or something ?

and not too sure about the problem you're having. maybe the IAC is sensing a lot of hot air and telling the ECU to richen up the AFR ?
 
I removed the IAC electrical solenoid assembly from the IAC core last month and inspected it. The IAC solenoid plunger was literally sticking in carbon buildup on the IAC mount. The (2) T-25 Tamper-proof screws were easy to remove after spraying with DeepCreep. Cleaned the solenoid plunger and mount. My idle smoothened up and COMPLETELY solved my sudden RPM dips (near stalls) on hot re-starts. Total time = 20 minutes; knuckles skinned = zero; dealer may charge you as a "package" deal to clean intake system or other BS PM treatment (overcharge city).

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1797962&postcount=97
(Thanks Kasmankk!!)

You do not need to remove the IAC valve from the intake -- only solenoid assembly!
 
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Someone else took the IAC appart, and were unable to get it back together. Was there any specific steps you took to complete that?
 
I dont couldnt even find a damn tool to take the damn thing apart. bastards at auto zone looked at me craizer than usual.
 
Yeah, most auto parts places get glossy-eyed when you mention that is it not american. The reverse happens in CA.
 
So I got thsi whole thing done in 20 minutes not including soak time in the carb cleaner. I also cleaned the oil out of the bottom of my air cleaner box. (K&N oil not dry when I put it in.) Also cleaned the throttle body.
Now it idles a ton more smooth. Acceleration is better too. Cant wait to see what it does to mileage.
Now for that big brake kit....
 
I got a random CEL today at start up. Car has been dipping low when idling at lights sometimes. I wonder if this would take care of it? Worth a try I suppose.
 
Well, I do have to say that the car has ran better sence I cleaned it. Thanks for the write up.
 
Tasty said:
I got a random CEL today at start up. Car has been dipping low when idling at lights sometimes. I wonder if this would take care of it? Worth a try I suppose.


I have read several times that the idle should be around 700. I have cleaned the egr and done a bunch of other stuff yet at a light after sitting for about thirty seconds, my idle dips to about 550 and stays there.

Very strange, yet no other problems. I haven't really looked into it too much but a honda tech asked me something about an idle regulator that has a fabric filter. ?? Eh, Not a big deal really. My gas mileage is awesome and I have no loss of power.
 
me and a friend did this to myc car today... huge. ive got 80,000 on my 02 LX so this little clean amde a big difference....
 
Iac

if cleaning the EGR doesnt not work, clean the IAC. It`s REALLY easy to do, easier than doin` the EGR. 2 T-25 tamper proof screws and pull it off. Be careful and pay attention when pulling it off, because it can slip out and fall (which isn`t a real big deal, u just have to find it). no real worry of breaking anything. EASY to clean with carb & choke cleaner, don`t get any lube or anything on the plunger cause I did and had to take it all back off and clean the plunger. u dont even need any lube really. super easy to do, just watch and try not to drop/lose anything.
 
RaiderMP5 said:
I totally had the same problem! I used the ratchet from Sears that was not as thick as a regular ratchet, plus it had a swivel head, helped give me the .000005 of an inch needed to get torque on the nuts. I had to basically pop them loose with a ratchet, and use my fingers to remove them. If you have a magnetic parts tray, I suggest putting it under the EGR when removing them, as it is a pain to reach them if they fall down back there.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944815000

Founbd out it was my IAC valve that was dirty and stuck, not my EGR. Cleaned it up, and runs liek a dream now!
 
I don't know if another 'me-too' post is necessary but I'm gonna...

I've got around 75,000 miles on my '02 P5 and have been religious with it's maintenance. Then out of the blue one day the thing started idling rough and would barely keep running at idle. I found this thread and proceeded on doing the egr cleaning. So far, so good, that seems to have been the problem.

I do have to say, it was NOT a 30 min. job for me. Every bolt and screw under my car's hood is corroded and siezed. For the first four years of it's life it was on MI roads so maybe all the road salt in winter has something to do with that.
Anyway, it was a real pain to actually get the egr apart. Those screws just didn't want to come out. Ended up having to drill em out and replace em. At least next time, it 'should' be a thirty minute job. ;-)

Thanks for the How-to!
 
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