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How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix
- Thread starter 122 Vega
- Start date
Just got through doing mine. I might not easily notice the difference b/c I'm swapping the tranny/flywheel/clutch along with a Turbohoses SMIC and Vibrant exhaust. The EGR was a b**ch to remove because of the bolt location. I ended up using the Dremel to cut 1/4" off of a 12mm socket. That made all the difference. Thanks for the how-to though!
TunerzEdge
Member
- :
- 1995 325i
Subcribing
martinmzfan
Member
Just thought I'd lend my 2 cents. Thanks to ALL you guys for helping me resolve and repair my rough/rolling/dipping idle issue!! Here was my problem:
1) Rough standstill idle -- needle hovered up/down 50 RPM from 700
2) Occasionally wanted to stall after a warm start -- RPM dipped to 500
3) Poor fuel economy -- about low 20's
4) No DTCs -- wheww!
5) Engine vibrates/shakes
I performed the following operations:
1) Changed air-filter (ash inside from recent fires)
2) Changed spark plugs w/NGK V-power; old ones were Bosch Pt and were slightly burned at the tips and overheated at the plug boot part (orange ring).
3) Removed, cleaned, lubed and re-installed the EGR valve assembly:
a. this was a serious PAIN to perform! From under the jacked car (on stands), I used three drivers: 3/8" 90 deg swivle socket wrench, 1/4" flex "T" 90 deg socket wrench and 12mm offset boxed hand wrench. It wasn't on too tight. Found it was definitely full of carbon but operating within specs. Used Liquidwrench for the 4 screws. I checked resistance and plunger operation -- all okay. I used SeaFoam Deep Creep and blasted that puppy. Everything was cleaned. Some carbon remained on plunger but freely operated. I pre-installed the bolts & gasket on the assembly and placed blue painters tape over the bolts to hold 'em while squeezing everything back on the manifold.
4) Removed and cleaned IAC solenoid assembly plunger and mounting area on IAC core. Used T-25 tamper-proof screw bit from Craftsman. Piece of cake to do -- used Liquidwrench on the two screws to make life easier. Lots o' carbon on solenoid plunger and mounting area. Plunger sticking to IAC mount. Used SeaFoam Deep Creep to clean.
5) SeaFoam motor treatment through PCV system into intake to remove carbon build-up; used 6 oz. The trick is to have a second person maintain a fast idle while the solvent is slowly sucked through and cut engine.
6) inspected many other parts and found no faults (e.g., PCV, purge control, PS pump, plug wires, vac leaks... I was up until 1:30AM one night! Reset PCM.
Startup and Roadtest: Very close to being a new engine! The motor vibrates some -- good for 67K miles -- but is noticeably smoother. RPM is very stable and so far no unexpected dips. Passed all load tests.
UPDATE: I added a SeaFoam motor treatment to the list and engine has become very smooth. Successful repair cost under $100 including two new tools in my garage arsenal for future sagas!
1) Rough standstill idle -- needle hovered up/down 50 RPM from 700
2) Occasionally wanted to stall after a warm start -- RPM dipped to 500
3) Poor fuel economy -- about low 20's
4) No DTCs -- wheww!
5) Engine vibrates/shakes
I performed the following operations:
1) Changed air-filter (ash inside from recent fires)
2) Changed spark plugs w/NGK V-power; old ones were Bosch Pt and were slightly burned at the tips and overheated at the plug boot part (orange ring).
3) Removed, cleaned, lubed and re-installed the EGR valve assembly:
a. this was a serious PAIN to perform! From under the jacked car (on stands), I used three drivers: 3/8" 90 deg swivle socket wrench, 1/4" flex "T" 90 deg socket wrench and 12mm offset boxed hand wrench. It wasn't on too tight. Found it was definitely full of carbon but operating within specs. Used Liquidwrench for the 4 screws. I checked resistance and plunger operation -- all okay. I used SeaFoam Deep Creep and blasted that puppy. Everything was cleaned. Some carbon remained on plunger but freely operated. I pre-installed the bolts & gasket on the assembly and placed blue painters tape over the bolts to hold 'em while squeezing everything back on the manifold.
4) Removed and cleaned IAC solenoid assembly plunger and mounting area on IAC core. Used T-25 tamper-proof screw bit from Craftsman. Piece of cake to do -- used Liquidwrench on the two screws to make life easier. Lots o' carbon on solenoid plunger and mounting area. Plunger sticking to IAC mount. Used SeaFoam Deep Creep to clean.
5) SeaFoam motor treatment through PCV system into intake to remove carbon build-up; used 6 oz. The trick is to have a second person maintain a fast idle while the solvent is slowly sucked through and cut engine.
6) inspected many other parts and found no faults (e.g., PCV, purge control, PS pump, plug wires, vac leaks... I was up until 1:30AM one night! Reset PCM.
Startup and Roadtest: Very close to being a new engine! The motor vibrates some -- good for 67K miles -- but is noticeably smoother. RPM is very stable and so far no unexpected dips. Passed all load tests.
UPDATE: I added a SeaFoam motor treatment to the list and engine has become very smooth. Successful repair cost under $100 including two new tools in my garage arsenal for future sagas!
Last edited:
Ben@Toeldo
Member
I just finished my EGR cleaning and it was not even close to a 30 min job. I have Idle problems that cause my RPM's to dip erraticaly when I stop after highway drving. I did the EGR cleaning in hopes to rip myself of the idle problem.
The EGR cleaning did not solve my idle issue though I did notice the engine was running distinctly better. Tomorow I am going to change out spake plugs to IK-22's and also do an Idle Silinoid cleaning. I will post my results.
Some helpful hints:
- Remove anything in your way. Strut sway bar and battery removal will help to gain enough hand room to get the job done.
- PB Blaster is your friend. Plan on presoaking any visible bolt at least 1 hour before starting into the project.
- One of the 12mm bolts holding the EGR in place has very little clearance room to get a conventional sized ratchet onto the bolt. Use the smallest rachet you can find, preferably with swivel head action.
- Once you remove the EGR empty a large amount PB Blaster into a small dish and soak the EGR's 4 screws for at least an hour. If you do not use a penetrant of some kind you will most certainly destroy the 4 screw heads (they are extremely soft). Some patience with the penetrant will make this project extremely easy.
*update*
Today I tackled the 2nd part of the project, IAC silinoid cleaning and new spark plugs.
I bought the expensive IK-22 which I hear are a good match for any unichip users. The old plugs were some junko Champion coppers which looked aged which came out easily. I put anti-sieze compound on the new plugs and installed them quickly.
Last night I pre-sprayed the no-tamper screws that hold the IAC in place with PB Blaster penetrant. I picked up a T-25 no-tamper bit today at Autozone. The 2 screws removed with ease, thank you PB Blaster. Be careful not to lose the O'ring gasket that is in between the IAC and the manifold.
Once removed, the IAC didn't look too bad at first glance. I thuroughly cleaned all the mechanicle pieces with carb cleaner, then lubed them using dura-lube. Popped it back in place with ease.
I reset the ECU, started her up and let her idle for a bit.
Test Drive proved to be a Success. Idle problem was gone. She pulls much harder and all around performance fealt great. Now that she's running well I could actually feel the clutch slip in 3rd while WOT. My idle problems were most rough after highway driving. Seems the idle problems are completely gone.
EGR cleaning, IAC cleaning, and new sparkplugs were a god send to my car. Good luck!
The EGR cleaning did not solve my idle issue though I did notice the engine was running distinctly better. Tomorow I am going to change out spake plugs to IK-22's and also do an Idle Silinoid cleaning. I will post my results.
Some helpful hints:
- Remove anything in your way. Strut sway bar and battery removal will help to gain enough hand room to get the job done.
- PB Blaster is your friend. Plan on presoaking any visible bolt at least 1 hour before starting into the project.
- One of the 12mm bolts holding the EGR in place has very little clearance room to get a conventional sized ratchet onto the bolt. Use the smallest rachet you can find, preferably with swivel head action.
- Once you remove the EGR empty a large amount PB Blaster into a small dish and soak the EGR's 4 screws for at least an hour. If you do not use a penetrant of some kind you will most certainly destroy the 4 screw heads (they are extremely soft). Some patience with the penetrant will make this project extremely easy.
*update*
Today I tackled the 2nd part of the project, IAC silinoid cleaning and new spark plugs.
I bought the expensive IK-22 which I hear are a good match for any unichip users. The old plugs were some junko Champion coppers which looked aged which came out easily. I put anti-sieze compound on the new plugs and installed them quickly.
Last night I pre-sprayed the no-tamper screws that hold the IAC in place with PB Blaster penetrant. I picked up a T-25 no-tamper bit today at Autozone. The 2 screws removed with ease, thank you PB Blaster. Be careful not to lose the O'ring gasket that is in between the IAC and the manifold.
Once removed, the IAC didn't look too bad at first glance. I thuroughly cleaned all the mechanicle pieces with carb cleaner, then lubed them using dura-lube. Popped it back in place with ease.
I reset the ECU, started her up and let her idle for a bit.
Test Drive proved to be a Success. Idle problem was gone. She pulls much harder and all around performance fealt great. Now that she's running well I could actually feel the clutch slip in 3rd while WOT. My idle problems were most rough after highway driving. Seems the idle problems are completely gone.
EGR cleaning, IAC cleaning, and new sparkplugs were a god send to my car. Good luck!
Last edited:
- :
- '03.5 Blazin' MSP (sold) ................. '14 Soul 6 GT
I'm at 32K and it started getting rough after 30K. This is the first I've seen of this thread. I will do both mods and post the results. THANK ALL OF YOU!!!!!
speedprotegewi
Member
- :
- 05 Eurotrash
almost 44k and just did this today. did plugs and flashed ecu recently and there was still an ever slight sputter and this fixed it right up - great how to:!! the only thing i had a problem with was removing the stupid plastic pipe going into the throttle body, but a heatgun fixed that. i also recommend cleaning out your throttle plate while its off, mine was fairly dirty
- :
- 2003.5 Laser Blue Mica MPS
I cleaned my EGR and my car is still running rough also. What have you done about yours?
Ben@Toeldo said:I just finished my EGR cleaning and it was not even close to a 30 min job. I have Idle problems that cause my RPM's to dip erraticaly when I stop after highway drving. I did the EGR cleaning in hopes to rip myself of the idle problem.
The EGR cleaning did not solve my idle issue though I did notice the engine was running distinctly better. Tomorow I am going to change out spake plugs to IK-22's and also do an Idle Silinoid cleaning. I will post my results.
Some helpful hints:
- Remove anything in your way. Strut sway bar and battery removal will help to gain enough hand room to get the job done.
- PB Blaster is your friend. Plan on presoaking any visible bolt at least 1 hour before starting into the project.
- One of the 12mm bolts holding the EGR in place has very little clearance room to get a conventional sized ratchet onto the bolt. Use the smallest rachet you can find, preferably with swivel head action.
- Once you remove the EGR empty a large amount PB Blaster into a small dish and soak the EGR's 4 screws for at least an hour. If you do not use a penetrant of some kind you will most certainly destroy the 4 screw heads (they are extremely soft). Some patience with the penetrant will make this project extremely easy.
protegeric said:I cleaned my EGR and my car is still running rough also. What have you done about yours?
And you're sure the gasket is back in place properly and all the screws are torqued down enough? Mine got rougher after doing the EGR cleaning, but probably because I didn't even think their was a gasket, I think it was stuck on the intake manifold or something.
- :
- 2003.5 Laser Blue Mica MPS
The gasket stayed on the manifold I guess, thanks for this little hint. The bolts and screws are down tight enough though, so I HOPE and I`m GUESSING that is OK. Hmm, you think buying a crystal ball would be a good investment?
zverg said:And you're sure the gasket is back in place properly and all the screws are torqued down enough? Mine got rougher after doing the EGR cleaning, but probably because I didn't even think their was a gasket, I think it was stuck on the intake manifold or something.
protegeric said:The gasket stayed on the manifold I guess, thanks for this little hint. The bolts and screws are down tight enough though, so I HOPE and I`m GUESSING that is OK. Hmm, you think buying a crystal ball would be a good investment?
What did you use to clean it. I used intake manifold cleaner (supposedly really strong stuff) and it was fine after that. I also cleaned up the gasket and the underside of the intake manifold where it mates before putting it all back together.
Ben@Toeldo
Member
protegeric said:I cleaned my EGR and my car is still running rough also. What have you done about yours?
See my edits above. I updated my post.
- :
- 2003.5 Laser Blue Mica MPS
Ah, I ONLY cleaned the EGR valve. I used some good stuff, B-12 Chemtool.
zverg said:What did you use to clean it. I used intake manifold cleaner (supposedly really strong stuff) and it was fine after that. I also cleaned up the gasket and the underside of the intake manifold where it mates before putting it all back together.
- :
- 2003.5 Laser Blue Mica MPS
Sweet. That sounds like my problem. I`ll do what you did, I already have some good plugs though. I`ll try what you said about the IAC. I even have a spare 929 IAC. Maybe that one will work? I`ll just go ahead and do what you explained to mine. Thanks doods...
Ben@Toeldo said:See my edits above. I updated my post.
pfive said:i need to have my EGR cleaned, but i am not the best under the hood. Would the stealership do it?
I'm sure they would for some $$. If they tried to charge for more than an hour of labor or for any parts b**** at them though, it's really not a time consuming job if you know what you're doing.
pfive said:just replacing my spark plugs - i dropped 2 tools down into the engine area and had to fish them out with screw drivers...im hesitant..also, my hands are huge. ill call around on it. ihave a mechanic friend, but he is real busy.
Where in NY are you? Maybe there's a member on here who can help you do it.
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