Not a problem, I appreciate the help!
engine oil rise GAS engine
- Thread starter lcann25
- Start date
Not a problem, I appreciate the help!
Got rid of the Purolator filter I had installed on the engine tonight and switched it to a Bosch just incase it was something with the filter. After starting the engine it was still too full so I pulled the filter off and drained it again, its just marginally above the full hole now, maybe 1/8th inch, but it's definitely at a safer level now. Manual says a filter holds .2 of a litre, so I assume a pre soaked filter would be .1, add that to the approximately .1 it's still overfull and that calculates to about a half litre over full. Now to just watch and hope it doesn't rise.
well it's been a week and a half since I drained the engine to an acceptable level and the oil has risen again back almost up to where it was. I called Mazda and voiced my concern and they don't seem to think its an issue. His exact words are " The skyactive engine is highly technical and it will look after itself" So am I supposed to just take them at their word and remain driving a vehicle with an engine that is overfilled with oil? Can anyone else that lives in the bitterly cold prairie provinces in Canada verify if this is happening to them to ease my mind? I don't know what to do at this point and it's starting to affect my love for this awesome vehicle! (shrug)
That's your real problem.
Direct injection engines are WAY more picky about getting up to temp.
Go on some longer trips, when making multiple stops go to the furthest one first.
If it's REALLY cold (sounds like it is), maybe look into blocking off part of the radiator or getting and engine block heater.
Direct injection engines are WAY more picky about getting up to temp.
Go on some longer trips, when making multiple stops go to the furthest one first.
If it's REALLY cold (sounds like it is), maybe look into blocking off part of the radiator or getting and engine block heater.
Yes it's cold. -26c with windchill of -44c!!! I can try blocking the rad a bit bit I think it's pretty hard to access that area.. Plus, with the days of the manual fan being long gone, I'm not sure that is necessary for all in town driving. other than that, I'm starting to think maybe I bought the wrong vehicle for the kinds of driving I'm doing.... (hand)
I went on a 90 mile road trip yesterday and checked the level again this morning and it's down 3/4 inch from where it was at, and almost perfectly at the top fill hole now. So obviously the skyactive engine does not like short trips around the city in cold temps. This might be something for all of us in cold climates with short commutes to keep in mind.
fixed
If you don't get the oil up to temp (10-15 mile minimum) you can't burn off all the stuff it's temporarily holding. DI engines are worse because the injector spray washes oil off the cylinder walls and then it collects in the sump when it drops from reduced film strength (grabbiness), raising the level.
fredbuteau
Member
- :
- Mazda3 Sport GS 2010, Black Mica, Corksport SRI
Just saying, windchill factor has no effect on inanimate objects (so CX-5 will be @ -26c, not -44)
One thing that may help is a coolant booster. They cut the surface tension of the coolant mix and make heat transfer more efficient. You've probably heard of water wetter, but I wouldn't recommend it since it has silicates in it (they make hard deposits in your cooling system). Amsoil makes Dominator Coolant Boost: here that does the same job but better and without the nasty stuff. 1oz per quart of cooling system capacity once per year or every 30k miles. Made a difference in both of my past cars (mazda6 2.3L and a Mazdaspeed miata) in warmup time, and it doesn't get nearly as cold here (maybe in the teens for a small stretch).
Beyond that you're on the right track! An engine at operating temperature is a happy engine!
Beyond that you're on the right track! An engine at operating temperature is a happy engine!
Hi, I just read your message. I have the same issue with my 2013 cx5 gas engine. I have called every Mazda dealer I can and no answers. No one knows what to do with the problem of oil being diluted in cold weather. I check the oil daily during the winter and try to take it on long trips to bring the oil level down. I was wondering if you had yours fixed and if so what was the problem. thanks
- :
- San Antonio, Texas
- :
- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
If you have o il level issues you may have blow by bs diluting your oil. Rhere is a catch can option
I doubt it a problem as long as you stick to the severe service oil change interval but there are things you can do to minimize the issue. I realize how cold it gets in Manitoba and short trips with a cold engine is brutal on mechanical/electrical stuff.
Do not use premium fuel, only 87. Lower octane will combust more completely in a cold engine.
When refilling the motor oil, only fill it 1/3 - 1/2 above the low mark. This creates less pressure differential between the crankcase and upper engine which will minimize oil dillution. There is a slight benefit in that the oil will warm up slightly faster. It also prevents the crankcase from becoming overly full. Change oil on the severe service schedule.
As long as visibility through the windshield is good, do not idle the car to warm it up. Drive it moderately. An engine with a moderate load on it achieves a better seal between the rings and cylinders and the valves and valve seats which will reduce oil dilution. If you park outside, use a windshield frost blanket so it's not necessary to idle until you have defrost heat. At very low temperatures it takes a lot of idling to fully warm up an Skyactiv engine because the initial heat is mostly directed out the exhaust to bring the catalyst up to temperature. Once that occurs it will idle very efficiently even though the engine is not up to full operating temperature so driving it really is the best way to warm it up.
Do not drive at low rpm/high load until fully warmed up. It is better to keep the rpm's around 2000-2500 than under 2000 if you need to depress the throttle 50% or more. Do not drive at high rpm's (above approx.. 3500 rpm) until the engine is warmed up.
When you do take it on a drive long enough for it to be fully warmed up, drive it moderately hard using at least 3/4 throttle and higher rpm's (3500-5000). This helps the valve seats stay clean of fluffy carbon and wears the rings for a better seal. I actually think the bulk of your problem is likely due to not driving the car hard every couple of weeks (coupled with the short trips in arctic temps and a lot of cold idling).
Completely cover the front grill with a windproof fabric when driving in arctic temperatures.
I think your oil level will not rise if you do these things. In normal use it's not necessary but 5 minute trips under arctic temperature is not normal use!
Thank you Mike for your response. I usually drive about 15-20 miles each day. I drive it in manual so i can keep the RPM's up. I also do have a cover on the front. I guess I do baby it a bit and need get out on the highway and step on it. It definitely is fuel mixing with the oil, because I can smell it on the dipstick. I wonder how much over full I should let it get to before I drain it. Last winter i changed the coolant sensor and the thermostat thinking this may be the problem, but still the same issue. I try not to let it idle very long at all. It is parked in an insulated garage. I usually have to drive about 180 miles to get the oil level back down to full or drain the oil. I will try draining the oil and refilling it 1/3 - 1/2 above the low mark as you suggested and see how that works. Thanks again. I am willing to try anything.
- :
- 2014 Mazda 6 GT with MRCC
You should do an oil analysis on the next 5,000 mile oil change and check for fuel dilution. I, too, have had some oil level increase with being gentle on the throttle and hyper miling my way to work. There's some good info at www.gf-6.com about issues with GDI engines, fuel dilution, "GDI Soot" and timing chain wear problems.
I plan on doing Blackstone testing next time around. I smell a fuel smell in the oil when I check the dipstick oil level and/or remove the oil filler cap.
I don't know what is considered "nomral" fuel smell in the oil so a test must be done.
