Door Lock Actuator, Right?

Just make sure you put it in the correct way. I sat there for almost a half hour trying to get the stupid screw holes to lineup only to relize i was trying to put it in backwards
 
Yup, did it myself. Hardest part was not getting the black tar/gew that holds the clear plastic to the door.

Remove the door panel, then peel down the clear plastic. There are only 2 screws holding it in place if I recall.

One tool to buy, magnetic phillips screwdriver. I didnot have one. That woulda made things much easier.
 
Yup, did it myself. Hardest part was not getting the black tar/gew that holds the clear plastic to the door.

Remove the door panel, then peel down the clear plastic. There are only 2 screws holding it in place if I recall.

One tool to buy, magnetic phillips screwdriver. I didnot have one. That woulda made things much easier.
So unlatching and latching of the various rods and connectors weren't an issue? When I opened it up I could barely get my hand in that little space that I don't know if I'll be able to figure out how to unlatch all those little white plastic connectors. How many of them did you have to unlatch anyway? Not all of them I hope.
 
OK, I just got the actuator and I was pleasantly surprised. I was expecting just the small black box with the electronics in it and that I had to disconnect all the different rods and wires and stuff from it (which was my main concern). When I saw the box from UPS yesterday I almost freaked out because it was much bigger than I was expecting because I was expecting to receive just the little black box. So my first thought was they sent me the wrong part. Then I gave them the benefit of the doubt and thought maybe the actual part is much smaller than the box suggests because thats the smallest box they had at the time. Then when I opened the box I pulled out a rather long box where the actuator was packaged in and my fears came back and thought once again that they sent the wrong part because theres no way in hell the little black actuator needs a box that long. Then to my surprise, and delight, when I opened the box and saw that the actuator had all the rods and wires already attached. The sight of that gave me relief of my two concerns: that it was the wrong part and; I still had to figure out how to disconnect the rods and wires from the old actuator and then re-attach to the new one. Now I know I have the right part and I dont have to worry about the rods and wires. Im going to replace it this weekend and hopefully it will be pretty straight forward.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
 
I did my actuator and I only did just the motor/actuator

No rods or anything. It'd in there with one connector and I think 2 screws. Then, it just drops out from under the rest of the lock assembly. It'll be easier to just replace the actuator than the whole locking assembly.
 
OK, I just got the actuator and I was pleasantly surprised. I was expecting just the small black box with the electronics in it and that I had to disconnect all the different rods and wires and stuff from it (which was my main concern). When I saw the box from UPS yesterday I almost freaked out because it was much bigger than I was expecting because I was expecting to receive just the little black box. So my first thought was they sent me the wrong part. Then I gave them the benefit of the doubt and thought maybe the actual part is much smaller than the box suggests because thats the smallest box they had at the time. Then when I opened the box I pulled out a rather long box where the actuator was packaged in and my fears came back and thought once again that they sent the wrong part because theres no way in hell the little black actuator needs a box that long. Then to my surprise, and delight, when I opened the box and saw that the actuator had all the rods and wires already attached. The sight of that gave me relief of my two concerns: that it was the wrong part and; I still had to figure out how to disconnect the rods and wires from the old actuator and then re-attach to the new one. Now I know I have the right part and I dont have to worry about the rods and wires. Im going to replace it this weekend and hopefully it will be pretty straight forward.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
Yeah, you got the 95.00 part instead of the 53.00 part. I did too but also scored the 53.00 part for 20 from the fs section so now I have a spare for drvr door.
 
My rear passenger door lock actuator went last Saturday. I ordered the part from online mazda parts (as recommended by people on this site) and they are extremely fast and friendly. the part itself was only $39.04 plus $20 shipping to canada. I am not a fan of tearing down door panels so I will have a mechanic throw it in for me. If it happens more often as I have read in other posts I will probably become more brave and do it myself.

Cheers.
 
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UPDATE:

Got the part from Online Mazda Parts. Only took 8 days to get to Canada. Took the car to a mechanic around the corner. Turns out I went to high school with him so he only charged me $20 to throw in the actuator. Now that I've seen it done it looks pretty straight forward and if another one goes I would do it myself.

Here's the broken worm gear....brutal cheap plastic.
(argh)

Cheers!
 

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That's what rolls down the back window or locks the back door? doesn't look anything like I replaced to lock/unlock the front door but I've never done the back door. Worm gear just seems like something to roll down the window.
 
I was looking at wrong part online. The correct part lists for 119 somethin & sells for 95 somethin. ****** worthless ass dealer nearest me wants 167 for same part & has to order it anyway so you know what I told them. FO, I'll order it myself for 80.00 less. Only went to ask them anyway cause I was nearby & needed a quick shot of comic relief. Montgomery verified the 95.00 part was the actuator part I need.
i have one if you need it...
 
i have one if you need it...
Appreciate it but already replaced the drvr door assembly & have extra actuator for same door by itself. Which door is yours for? I'll take it off your hands if it's for a different door than the driver one.
 
That's what rolls down the back window or locks the back door? doesn't look anything like I replaced to lock/unlock the front door but I've never done the back door. Worm gear just seems like something to roll down the window.


Yes this controls the power lock. It's the gear that is inside the actuator. The term worm gear, I believe, is generic in nature and is consistent with the configuration of the gear itself.

Here is the gear sitting in the actuator. I only posted a pic of the gear in the previous post without stating that it came from inside.

Cheers.
 

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Oh, gotcha. Cool, never opened mine up, just tossed it after replacing the assembly. Never opened the bag on just the actuator piece I got new from the fs section, just stashed it. Thanks for the pics. Can you buy just the gear piece to fix others if they break? Makes me wonder if the gear from the new one I have would fit in the others if they break or if they're all different.
 
I'm not sure if you can buy just the gear or not. That would make things pretty easy wouldn't it. The only reason I knew to open it up was because somebody on this forum had done it before and I just wanted to see how cheap it was inside. There is also a post on this forum where somebody has super glued the gear back together. I think I am going to try that and keep this one as a spare. May work or may not, but worth a shot.

Cheers.
 
Well, I just replaced it and it was pretty straight forward. I did have to figure out how to disconnect some rods and stuff but it was pretty easy to figure out.
 
I just did. Scored new actuator itself without all the rods for the driver's door for 10 bucks off ebay with 7.00 shipping. Got me a spare. hope I won't need it anytime soon. The swap was no hassle really. The worse part is the goo on the plastic door liner. Rest was cake. The clip on the actual door handle slowed me down a bit because i didn't want to break it. Wasn't sure whether it unscrewed or clip pops off. After much aprehension, my pick tool popped the clip then the rod pops out of a retainer. Done. Used one rod from the old one. All went back fine & all is functional again.

Hello. I am struggling to access a failed rear driver's door lock actuator on my P5. How did you remove the door handle?

I tried without success (using several tape wrapped flat head screw drivers) to remove the door handle. Maybe I am too cautions as I do not want to break the door clips but I'm wondering if I am missing some basic technique :confused:

Thanks.
 
Are you talking about the door handle on the inside to close door with or the door handle on the outside to open door? The inside one has a couple of screws. The door panel itself just pops in place. You just have to grip it & start popping it free working all the way around the edges on front back & bottom. The outside one doesn't need to come off. I actually haven't had the rear one apart, just the front but should be similar process.
 
Are you talking about the door handle on the inside to close door with or the door handle on the outside to open door? The inside one has a couple of screws. The door panel itself just pops in place. You just have to grip it & start popping it free working all the way around the edges on front back & bottom. The outside one doesn't need to come off. I actuallt haven't had the rear one apart, just the front but should be similar process.

Thanks for the fast reply.
Door handle on the inside.
I only see one screw on the inside door handle (at least in the rear door)... will give it another shot looking all around again and then working around the edges carefully. I'm sure I am missing something obvious.
 
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