CX-5 Serpentine Belt and Tensioner Quote from Dealer

[clownshoes2]

I know there are other threads but I want my own
Went to a different dealer than my normal one because I'm getting horrible service at my main. Even tho I worked with like 3 people back in the day, I still get crap service.
Anywho, my belt was squealing so I went to the dealer where I bought my CX-30 and I was quoted $480+HST (Canuckistan dollars) to replace the tensioner and serpentine belt. A very nice tech went out and checked my tensioner and, it indeed is sweating. The service advisor said this is a common CX-5 issue.

Is $480 too much to replace the tensioner and serpentine belt? Oh and they wanted an extra $46 to replace the other smaller belt in behind.

 

[7eregrine]

I'd say that's a pretty normal price...from a dealer. Oh...CDN dollars? Still a smidgen high from what a regular shop would charge you. Why you taking your CX5 to the dealer this far out of warranty?
Don't.
Your car isn't that advanced that a regular shop can't do it. I'd get a second opinion.

 

[clownshoes2]

I just figure with common parts like this they will know how to get the job done quickly and know what to look out for with respect to other problem areas.

The alternative is I pay someone $380 to change the tensioner and belts on a vehicle they may never have done before. Absolutely a smaller shop for things like suspension parts, brakes, exhaust etc...

 

[7eregrine]

I'm tellin' ya, Shoes, and surely someone will be along shortly to back me up: A belt is absolutely just as easy for any shop to do as brakes, exhaust, suspension. Nothing to it with the right tools and there is absolutely nothing out of the ordinary with a Mazda serp belt.

 

[tomcat1446]

I did mine over the weekend, my 2016 has 162,000 miles on it. The belt tensioner was shot to hell, oil leaked..... probably a long time ago, but car still drove fine. The serpentine belt was in pretty bad shape, cracks all over the place. the water pump belt was okay, no cracks but hardened and turned brownish color. The process was pretty simple, I just followed fellow CX-5 owners instructions on youtube... How to Remove + Install/Replace Belt Tensioner on 2.5L engine for Mazda 3, 6, CX5 and Mazda CX 5 CX 3 Mazda 2 Mazda 6 Biante Skyactiv How to replace V belt / Water pump belt .

 

[clownshoes2]

That's fantastic you were able to do yours. My days of doing that kind of stuff are faaaar behind me.

 

[tomcat1446]

That's fantastic you were able to do yours. My days of doing that kind of stuff are faaaar behind me.

thanks clownshoes2, yeah but the day after, my back hurts. LOL.. the local shop quoted me $400 with the parts so yeah, I had to do it myself.....

 

[ceric]

The tensioner and belt of my '16 Mazda6 was replaced 1-2 yrs ago at a dealership.
It squeaked every time I pressed the gas pedal.

I recall that the full price was about $400-500.
That is SF Bay Area dollars... everything is expensive here.

 

[yrwei52]

I did mine over the weekend, my 2016 has 162,000 miles on it. The belt tensioner was shot to hell, oil leaked..... probably a long time ago, but car still drove fine. The serpentine belt was in pretty bad shape, cracks all over the place. the water pump belt was okay, no cracks but hardened and turned brownish color. The process was pretty simple, I just followed fellow CX-5 owners instructions on youtube... How to Remove + Install/Replace Belt Tensioner on 2.5L engine for Mazda 3, 6, CX5 and Mazda CX 5 CX 3 Mazda 2 Mazda 6 Biante Skyactiv How to replace V belt / Water pump belt .

Are you using aftermarket belts such as Gates? It’s been said several times here that if you use aftermarket water pump stretch belt it’d be more difficult to install as it’s a bit smaller than the OEM water pump stretch belt.

 

[7eregrine]

Nobody's going to back me up in that?

 

[tomcat1446]

Are you using aftermarket belts such as Gates? It’s been said several times here that if you use aftermarket water pump stretch belt it’d be more difficult to install as it’s a bit smaller than the OEM water pump stretch belt.

Hi, I only used OEM, I had no fitment issues and the installation was easy, I just followed the youtube videos.. I figured if the original OEM parts lasted 162,000 miles, might as well go with OEM and try to reach 300,000 miles without changing again. I'm going to drive this thing until it can't run anymore, LOL. These are the part numbers I used for 2016 CX-5:

Part Number​	Part Name​	Price​	Quantity​	Total​
PE03-15-980C​	Tensioner​	$132.61​	1​	$132.61​
PY01-15-909A​	Serpentine Belt​	$33.11​	1​	$33.11​
PY01-15-908​	Water Pump Belt​	$16.15​	1​	$16.15​
​	​	​	​	​

 

[7eregrine]

That's awesome! Damn, I might try this myself someday.

 

[Jmaz]

Nobody's going to back me up in that?

I'll back you up in that. If it's DIY able in your garage or driveway then it's easier with a lift and any shop could do it. I had to remove (and reinstall) the serpentine belt when I changed the tensioner at ~ 29k miles. A long 14mm(IIRC) wrench to release the belt tension and a whopping (1) small nut and (1) small bolt to remove the tensioner. It's a tight fit working in there. Didn't have to touch the water pump belt but I'd probably go in through the wheel well to change that.

 

[twins34]

Are you using aftermarket belts such as Gates? It’s been said several times here that if you use aftermarket water pump stretch belt it’d be more difficult to install as it’s a bit smaller than the OEM water pump stretch belt.

Just wanted to chime in here because I just replaced the tensioner and both belts on our 2014 last night/this morning. I normally buy OEM parts, but this time I decided to be cheap and ordered Continental belts on Rockauto. Big mistake. I fought and fought to get the dang stretch belt on and finally gave up. I tried the zip tie trick, but each time the tie snapped. This morning I picked up OEM belts at the dealer and had the stretch belt installed in less than two minutes. No zip tie needed. The drive belt took maybe 10 minutes. The entire project would have been a breeze if I had just gone with OEM from the start. Lesson learned.

My dealer here in the Twin Cities wanted $623 to do it. The tensioner was definitely leaking as it was caked in oily grime, but the original belts looked pretty good for being 10 years/100,000 miles old.

I will also say I bought an INA branded tensioner on Rockauto for $40.79. The dealer wanted $150 for OEM. It installed easily, but I will just have to see how it holds up. I installed it before the nightmare with the stretch belt. The factory tensioner had INA stamped on it, so I figure saving $110 on what is probably the exact same part was worth the risk.

 

[shooter357]

I'm not an engineer but this brings to mind why didn't they just make the tensioner a spring type like so many other autos use. Maybe I'm just old and am used tocars with distributors where you had to set the point gap, dwell and replace the condenser, rotor and distributor cap. Oh well!

 

[Jmaz]

Just wanted to chime in here because I just replaced the tensioner and both belts on our 2014 last night/this morning. I normally buy OEM parts, but this time I decided to be cheap and ordered Continental belts on Rockauto. Big mistake. I fought and fought to get the dang stretch belt on and finally gave up. I tried the zip tie trick, but each time the tie snapped. This morning I picked up OEM belts at the dealer and had the stretch belt installed in less than two minutes. No zip tie needed. The drive belt took maybe 10 minutes. The entire project would have been a breeze if I had just gone with OEM from the start. Lesson learned.

My dealer here in the Twin Cities wanted $623 to do it. The tensioner was definitely leaking as it was caked in oily grime, but the original belts looked pretty good for being 10 years/100,000 miles old.

I will also say I bought an INA branded tensioner on Rockauto for $40.79. The dealer wanted $150 for OEM. It installed easily, but I will just have to see how it holds up. I installed it before the nightmare with the stretch belt. The factory tensioner had INA stamped on it, so I figure saving $110 on what is probably the exact same part was worth the risk.

I'm thinking my factory tensioner was stamped INA also. In any event I'd go INA as a replacement if it needed changing again.

 

[Jmaz]

I'm not an engineer but this brings to mind why didn't they just make the tensioner a spring type like so many other autos use. Maybe I'm just old and am used tocars with distributors where you had to set the point gap, dwell and replace the condenser, rotor and distributor cap. Oh well!

Maybe due to space constraints. The springs in the spring type would get weak also and if after a lot of miles the idler pulley bearing got noisy (squealing or sounded like gravel), it was time to change the whole unit anyway. The "hydraulic" aspect of this Mazda tensioner is just a thick oil inside for damping. There still is a spring inside.