Curt, Drawtite or Reese Hitch?

I just installed my 2" Curt III yesterday. It took about 45 minutes by myself with breaks for pictures. A big hitch looks more manly (lol2). Now just need to look for a fairly cheap bike rack that holds my mtn bike by the wheels (bike)
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Side view, about flush to bumper
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I like that I can see the hitch receiver on the rear cam-
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I went with the Curt 2" class III, like others mentioned I got it from Amazon as they had the best price but Curt's powder coating is poor at best. The hitch came with quite a bit of the black coating chipped off. I don't have time to send back and forth so I sanded the bad spots and primered and painted them. The hitch is a cake walk to install anyone with the desire can do it. The reason I went with 2" is most of the 4 bike racks are 2" like the Thule T2. If you never plan on going more than 2 bikes the 1 1/4" should be fine.
Late to this, but I have a Reese/Drawtite on another car. The paint/powder coat was exactly the same as you described with your Curt. And I ended up doing the same respray thing with mine.

So no difference there :)
 
I installed the Curt 1 1/4 inch receiver and bought the euro look ball mount
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I tool the ball mount to my local welding shop and had him fill in a bit of the hole for the pin. I then tapped the hole for 1/2-13 THD.

When I put the ball mount on the car it is BOLTED on. It doesn't rattle. It can't rattle.

I am very happy with the performance and the look.

Frank
 
I installed the Curt 1 1/4 inch receiver and bought the euro look ball mount
45551_300x225_a.jpg


I tool the ball mount to my local welding shop and had him fill in a bit of the hole for the pin. I then tapped the hole for 1/2-13 THD.

When I put the ball mount on the car it is BOLTED on. It doesn't rattle. It can't rattle.

I am very happy with the performance and the look.

Frank

Really not a fan of the euro hitches. They look very phallic.
 
My Class III Curt came. Took down the Class II, left the bolts in there, then lifted up the Class III and tighten.
Bolts, nuts, plate all the same.
 
My Class III Curt came. Took down the Class II, left the bolts in there, then lifted up the Class III and tighten.
Bolts, nuts, plate all the same.

To be expected. No reason to inventory a separate part # for bolts, etc. Since the load requirements are the same...
 
Surfsup, that is the Kuat NV. It's what I use and love it. It's not lightweight by any means so I end up just leaving mine on the CX-5 and flip it up when not using. I notice people don't edge up on my rear bumper quite as tight in urban traffic. I think it scares the crap out of them. I saw one post from a NV owner posted on a different forum where is rack was undamaged and the car that hit him had a whole lot of damage :)
 
My Class III Curt came. Took down the Class II, left the bolts in there, then lifted up the Class III and tighten.
Bolts, nuts, plate all the same.

Was there really a 20lb weight difference between the Class II and Class III?
 
Was there really a 20lb weight difference between the Class II and Class III?
It didn't seem to be 20lbs more.
Maybe because I had experience installing then removing the Class II that the Class III didn't feel more heavy.

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I think I might buy a Hidden Hitch when the time comes. From what I have read so far, the HH receiver doesn't seem to protrude as far from the bumper as the other makes.
 
I read on another thread (or it could have been this one) that another user who also made the switch noticed both hitches weigh's weren't all that different. Just wanted to justify the weight gain of the class III over the class II for the better accessory options. But since there isn't much of a weight difference, it just makes even more sense to get the Class III.
 
I can confirm my class III hitch is about 36 lbs. I weighed it before I installed it about a week ago.
 
Question for those that bought the Curt Hitch 2"...I was looking at this hitch but then I read that if you are using this hitch with a bike rack they require you to use a stabilizing strap or you void the warranty. Does everyone actually use this? Seems like a big pain. I never see anyone driving around on the highway with these straps. Seems like a big drawback and I may just go with the Hidden Hitch
 
Question for those that bought the Curt Hitch 2"...I was looking at this hitch but then I read that if you are using this hitch with a bike rack they require you to use a stabilizing strap or you void the warranty. Does everyone actually use this? Seems like a big pain. I never see anyone driving around on the highway with these straps. Seems like a big drawback and I may just go with the Hidden Hitch

I've used my ROLA rack both when I was using Curt Class 2 and then Class 3. Used it to carry a Trek mountain bike and Trek Hybrid.
No issues, I didn't read anywhere required strap.
 
This is what etrailer.com has on their website:
"Note: All non-trailer loads - bike racks, cargo carriers and so forth - should be supported with stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support these loads will void your hitch warranty from CURT."

You probably can live without the straps but definately makes me think twice.
 
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