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Common problems with the Mazda3
- Thread starter blondee_yvr
- Start date
blondee_yvr
Member
- :
- 2012 Mazda3
Right, but there is a TB on the blades not perfomring well in cold weather... The lingo that is being used is confusing cuz they interchange the names (blades and inserts/refills). But, the metal blades could be defective too (warped or something similar).
iamcanadian said:4. Clunk popping into reverse leaving my driveway (Even with a warm up) (if anyone has this problem too please let me know)
I get this too. It happened to me around this time last year as well.
Mazda said it was a bolt that came loose on the trans. (They ended up changing out a few things at that time too, Changed my passenger side front wheel setup too)
I cant remember all the details, but they had to order a few parts in. Fixed free.
Also it is doing it again. When I take the car from 3rd to 2nd I can hear it. as well 2nd to 1st. and from cold start to reverse.
i LOVE my mazda 3...
Hopefully someone can help...
When i first start the car and go there is a hesitation up until around 3000 rpms..then it kicks, almost like youre pressing the gas harder. After the car warms up for a while it doesnt do it....also its usually only in first and second gear. Maybe someone has the same problem and can help...
ALSO, ive noticed a squeek when i shift into second gear...anyone else have that problem?? anyone know what i should do to fix!?
Hopefully someone can help...
When i first start the car and go there is a hesitation up until around 3000 rpms..then it kicks, almost like youre pressing the gas harder. After the car warms up for a while it doesnt do it....also its usually only in first and second gear. Maybe someone has the same problem and can help...
ALSO, ive noticed a squeek when i shift into second gear...anyone else have that problem?? anyone know what i should do to fix!?
10dler said:i LOVE my mazda 3...
Hopefully someone can help...
When i first start the car and go there is a hesitation up until around 3000 rpms..then it kicks, almost like youre pressing the gas harder.
You can blame emissions controls on that. I believe it is pretty normal for this particular engine.
My Toyota truck stays in second gear exceptionally long the first time, then operates normally, all because the way it is programmed to comply with federal emissions.
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goldwing2000
Turd in the punch bowl
- :
- 2004 Mazda3s Hatch; 269,000 miles
10dler said:Hopefully someone can help...
When i first start the car and go there is a hesitation up until around 3000 rpms..then it kicks, almost like youre pressing the gas harder. After the car warms up for a while it doesnt do it....also its usually only in first and second gear. Maybe someone has the same problem and can help...
ALSO, ive noticed a squeek when i shift into second gear...anyone else have that problem?? anyone know what i should do to fix!?
The kick at 3,000 isn't a problem. It's the normal functioning of the intake system on this particular vehicle. There's a computer controlled valve that alters the air flow from idle to about 3k when the engine is cold. As sajack said, it's mainly for emission controls.
I like to think of it as my cold-start turbo boost. (thumb)
Don't know about the 2nd-gear squeak but a clutch squeak is common. Where does it sound like it's coming from?
15 months, 33k miles! My car was used by my wife as a courier car, and after 33k miles there has not been a single issue with the car, at all. Very pleased thus far. I'm about to do the 30k mile checkup, I'll let you know if anything unexpected is found.
goldwing2000 said:Probably a full 75% of the parts in the Mazda3 are Ford parts.
Just not Ford USA parts. They all come from India, Hungary, etc.
Maybe I'm smoking crack, but I swear I remember the factory sticker saying 95% japan parts.
Shakespeare72 said:My Mazda 3 has been in the shop since last Monday. That's 10 days this time by my count and a total of 12 days. Friday they called and said they were removing the instrument panel and putting it in the freezer over night, today they said a new speedometer just arrived and they were going to install it tomorrow. Maybe I'll get it back before I make my 4th payment.
I wouldn't recommend a Mazda to my worst enemy. Okay, well maybe to my worst enemy but not to a friend. Woulda, shoulda, coulda, boughta Honda. Live and learn huh.
I felt the same way about VW when I had a 2000 New Beetle that ran into $8000 in repair over a 2 year period. However, I've also found that problems like mine are far and between on the Beetle. Don't forget there are people like myself who've had 7 cars, and this Mazda is by far the best and most reliable car I've ever driven. And this is just MY opinion from this one car. I don't think people should judge a car company from a single vehicle. Your dealership's incompetence may not be entirely Mazda's fault, and probably isn't. I personally made the decision to hate Diamler-Chrysler products, but it was researched. I had 4 bad chrysler cars, out of 4. And upon researching other chryslers such as some of the neons I read many bad reports from owners.
I haven't done a whole lot of research on my Mazda3 since owning it, but from the looks of this forum at least, most are happy with their cars, and most problems seem minor and quickly fixed by the dealer.
Before buying any vehicle you should probably read the consumer reports on it. If I were you, and this problem doesn't disappear I would tell the dealership to trade you for a new Mazda3 of the same specs and features, or just give you back the money (which depends on state lemon laws). You may trade to a Mazda3 that is nearly mechanically flawless like my own (knock on wood), and Mazda could redeem itself, or you may end up getting the lemon .1%, it's a gamble.
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blondee_yvr
Member
- :
- 2012 Mazda3
Lord Ikon said:15 months, 33k miles! My car was used by my wife as a courier car, and after 33k miles there has not been a single issue with the car, at all. Very pleased thus far. I'm about to do the 30k mile checkup, I'll let you know if anything unexpected is found.
(omg)
That says it all. The car is used by the wife.
Kinda reminds me of the time when someone's wife said she noticed the pretty red OIL light in the dash but assumed that it meant the car having oil. The engine had seized.
Just so u know, the dealer wont replace anything unless there is a complaint about it.
blondee_yvr said:(omg)
That says it all. The car is used by the wife.
Kinda reminds me of the time when someone's wife said she noticed the pretty red OIL light in the dash but assumed that it meant the car having oil. The engine had seized.
Just so u know, the dealer wont replace anything unless there is a complaint about it.
Well luckily she got a new job and the miles are down to a normal level. Only a scale of 1-10, my knowledge of cars is maybe a 3, other than specs. The tuneup is because I don't know if the tranny fluid is clean, or the levels are good, if the plugs/wires are ok, if there are any leaks, if the wheel bearings (or whatever they're called) are ok. Stuff like that that I'm afraid if I don't notice it will cost a lot later on.
Is the 30k mile checkup worth it? Is there anything I should mention to the dealership to check that they might not normally check?
blondee_yvr
Member
- :
- 2012 Mazda3
Something that is overlooked is getting your brake fluid replaced (flushed). You should do this every two years. Otherwise, follow the manual.
If you've done a regular service as recommended by the manual, you could skip a few things with the 30K mile service. I don't know what the dealer has in mind as he is free to "recommend" what he likes.
Spark plugs also last a long time now too. The book says 75K miles.
I see no mention in the manual when the tranny fluid needs to be replaced. I know it used to be a long, long time ago every two years but now the fluid lasts longer.
Engine coolant needs to be replaced every 4 years or every 60K miles.
In any case, you should get the mechanic to look underneath the car for anything abnormal. There should be no charge since the car is up on the hoist anyways.
For brakes, I usually go to Midas or somewhere else where they examine the brakes free of charge rather than paying the dealer to inspect them for you. If you need new brakes, you can always go back to the dealer or have Midas do them for you.
If you've done a regular service as recommended by the manual, you could skip a few things with the 30K mile service. I don't know what the dealer has in mind as he is free to "recommend" what he likes.
Spark plugs also last a long time now too. The book says 75K miles.
I see no mention in the manual when the tranny fluid needs to be replaced. I know it used to be a long, long time ago every two years but now the fluid lasts longer.
Engine coolant needs to be replaced every 4 years or every 60K miles.
In any case, you should get the mechanic to look underneath the car for anything abnormal. There should be no charge since the car is up on the hoist anyways.
For brakes, I usually go to Midas or somewhere else where they examine the brakes free of charge rather than paying the dealer to inspect them for you. If you need new brakes, you can always go back to the dealer or have Midas do them for you.
Lord Ikon said:Is the 30k mile checkup worth it? Is there anything I should mention to the dealership to check that they might not normally check?
the 30k checkup is a good idea...even if youve done some of it already..everyone thinks in terms of the dealer just tryin to make some buck,s but keep in mind everything u do there is recorded on computer...if it comes down to warranty running out an something breaking, THAT can make the difference in getting some help an bein told "sorry no warranty"!. My dads the serv mgr at the mazda dealer here, everday they have something come up like that, basically good customers ger helped, the ones that never show uo except for something big or to complain....get nothing.And they DO have leeway for repairs thru mazda after warranty....buts its strictly a call on their part depending on how good a customer youve been...plus it just looks better to have as much done as possible thru the dealer, its good to save money by dealin aftermarket ,but if u ever try arguin about something as to wether not the car is maintained properly, its hard to beat havin the recored of it bein serviced on time by the book right there at yr dealer, cuz if they refuse something that should be repaired or wont help, since mazda does NOT like calls from angry customers!
Vegasdriver
Member
- :
- Mazda3, 08, hatch, manual, silver
One year, some 14,000 miles and flawless!
Glovebox Problem
I have a 2004 Mazda 3. To close my glovebox, I must pull on the handle while closing the door. It does not close simply by pushing it. Sometimes it opens on its own and it seems not to be closed properly. I took it to the dealership and their initial assessment was that there was no problem. I have seen mentions of this similar problem throughout this thread. Can you all give me your experience with this issue?
I have a 2004 Mazda 3. To close my glovebox, I must pull on the handle while closing the door. It does not close simply by pushing it. Sometimes it opens on its own and it seems not to be closed properly. I took it to the dealership and their initial assessment was that there was no problem. I have seen mentions of this similar problem throughout this thread. Can you all give me your experience with this issue?
blondee_yvr
Member
- :
- 2012 Mazda3
vasklar said:I have a 2004 Mazda 3. To close my glovebox, I must pull on the handle while closing the door. It does not close simply by pushing it. Sometimes it opens on its own and it seems not to be closed properly. I took it to the dealership and their initial assessment was that there was no problem. I have seen mentions of this similar problem throughout this thread. Can you all give me your experience with this issue?
Go to ANOTHER dealer. I had mine replaced under warranty. However, if your warranty has expired, ensure you have back-up to support the problem developed before the warranty ran out.
Okay, guys, maybe you can help me out here with a problem I've been having with dear ol' Mazda customer service. Like most here, I overall love the car and have had very few problems (I do have the wheel clunk, which tends to horrify passengers from time to time, and I do have some annoying issue with my wiper blades being shoddy, but whatever).
Recently, however, I had a REAL problem. Mine is an '05 (26 mo/22000 miles). I noticed the engine was starting to over-rev, while producing less and less actual traction in the wheels. I planned to take the car in ASAP, but I had to work, and over the course of a day, the problem got worse and worse until finally the car was completely inoperable. Turns out it was a clutch failure. So the car had to be towed, and unfortunately at the time it failed it was a long way from home. So it's towed to this dealership in San Bernardino, where they perform about $1200 in repairs, all of which they say is not covered under warranty.
So, end of story, right? Not really. I take the car back from them, drive it back to my office, park. Next time I go to start, it's no go. I have it towed AGAIN. Turns out the starter has gone bad. AND they discovered a cracked engine mount. And I remember that when the San Bernardino dealership gave the car back to me, the engine was already running. Did they already know there was a problem? Hmm.
So basically I'm wondering if someone can give me some pointers here. I emailed and called Mazda about this. The email took 3 weeks to get a response, which was a curt "the clutch is only covered for 12,000 miles". The guy on the phone was fairly rude, unhelpful, told me the same thing, and wouldn't help pass me along to a regional manager, for instance. Flipping through the manual quickly I don't even see where it says the clutch is only covered for 12,000 miles... but okay. Doesn't it seem a bit odd that an absolutely critical component should fail that soon, and not be covered? Also, the fee the dealership charged me is way more than Consumer Report's listed $830. I expect a bit more from a dealership, and in my area, but 50% more?
Anyway, if anyone can make any suggestions for enacting vengeance on Mazda's crap customer service, let me know.
Recently, however, I had a REAL problem. Mine is an '05 (26 mo/22000 miles). I noticed the engine was starting to over-rev, while producing less and less actual traction in the wheels. I planned to take the car in ASAP, but I had to work, and over the course of a day, the problem got worse and worse until finally the car was completely inoperable. Turns out it was a clutch failure. So the car had to be towed, and unfortunately at the time it failed it was a long way from home. So it's towed to this dealership in San Bernardino, where they perform about $1200 in repairs, all of which they say is not covered under warranty.
So, end of story, right? Not really. I take the car back from them, drive it back to my office, park. Next time I go to start, it's no go. I have it towed AGAIN. Turns out the starter has gone bad. AND they discovered a cracked engine mount. And I remember that when the San Bernardino dealership gave the car back to me, the engine was already running. Did they already know there was a problem? Hmm.
So basically I'm wondering if someone can give me some pointers here. I emailed and called Mazda about this. The email took 3 weeks to get a response, which was a curt "the clutch is only covered for 12,000 miles". The guy on the phone was fairly rude, unhelpful, told me the same thing, and wouldn't help pass me along to a regional manager, for instance. Flipping through the manual quickly I don't even see where it says the clutch is only covered for 12,000 miles... but okay. Doesn't it seem a bit odd that an absolutely critical component should fail that soon, and not be covered? Also, the fee the dealership charged me is way more than Consumer Report's listed $830. I expect a bit more from a dealership, and in my area, but 50% more?
Anyway, if anyone can make any suggestions for enacting vengeance on Mazda's crap customer service, let me know.
unipus said:just a bump because I realize I posted my last late on a Friday... not the best time to get a response. (hi)
http://media.ford.com/mazda/people/bios.cfm?make_id=227
Hope this helps. Be sure to post how things go.
EnergyUnit
Member
Minor annoyances
I have a 2006 3 hatchback, 5 speed. About 12,000 miles on it.
It's the best driving car I've ever had, but it's certainly not the quietest on the highway, has a minor squeek in the dashboard, and it's absolutely horrible on anything but a completely dry road. You lose traction immediately, and the wheel hop makes you think the front end is gonna fall out.
I really surprised I haven't seen more people writing about installing a limited slip.
I've been trying to track down somebody in Massachusetts who can install a Quaife for me.
I have a 2006 3 hatchback, 5 speed. About 12,000 miles on it.
It's the best driving car I've ever had, but it's certainly not the quietest on the highway, has a minor squeek in the dashboard, and it's absolutely horrible on anything but a completely dry road. You lose traction immediately, and the wheel hop makes you think the front end is gonna fall out.
I really surprised I haven't seen more people writing about installing a limited slip.
I've been trying to track down somebody in Massachusetts who can install a Quaife for me.
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