changing my oil...

^^^
Because I may need it w/i the next couple months...hopefully I won't need to change again that soon. But I do have enough for one more change of RP. Now if we could sell RP...then I'm definately in! I just haven't had any experience w/ AMSOIL...

Sorry for temporary thread jack....back to work I go!
 
I have used Mobil since 2K miles.

I only have 3400 now... I guess I don't drive as much as you guys.

BTW,

How do you get your filter tight if you're only hand tightening it? I heard that there was a special wrench that only MAZDA had ?
 
Really, so you need a special wrench to change the oil?
 
All these questions of oil....

I have found some very useful info at this place -> http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

Royal Purple is a good oil. So is Amsoil and Mobil1. I prefer Amsoil for one reason - it seems to hold up better than other synthetics (for extended drain).

Just don't keep it in your car for 25,000 miles - those people are crazy.
 
BTW, just hand-tighten. Only thing you need the wrench for is removing the first filter (since the factory uses a large gorilla to put it on there).

I wear a plastic glove and just twist.
 
Yup, I just hand-tighten. I put on a leather glove and crank it tight with that -- you can get it MORE than adequately tight that way IMO. Plus since I use Fram, that little grippy coating on the end helps too.
 
Yup, I just hand-tighten. I put on a leather glove and crank it tight with that -- you can get it MORE than adequately tight that way IMO. Plus since I use Fram, that little grippy coating on the end helps too.

Getting it off is the same deal -- leather glove does it just fine.
 
Okay, I went to my local Napa and they had no sythetics in stock. So I went to Autozone. The synthetics were running about $5/quart...I called a buddy to see what he used, and he said the Quaker State 5w-30 full synthetic. The stuff they had was for "higher HP engines" and figured this could work for me since I race around a lot. Plus, it was under $3/quart I believe(its late, and i forgot:)). I also got a Bosch filter(around $4). The Fram Suregrip was about half the price of the others, but the Bosch offered the best filtration. They had one brand for like $12, but that's way too expensive. I never realized how small these filters are. It looks like they belong on a lawnmower, not a car engine!!
 
Just a word of caution,

Some stuff is labeled as synthetic but it really isn't (just a highly refined regular oil). Mobil1 is a true synthetic (same with Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline, etc.). I haven't heard much good about Quaker State's synthetic.

As far as filters, can the Mazdaspeed also use a 626 V6 one? If you are going for extended intervals, I would do that.


That being said, Walmart has 5 qts of Mobil1 on sale for 18.88. And Pep Boys gives you free PureOne filter with the purchase of a case of Mobil1. But be prepared to spend more that regular oil - quality costs money.
 
get the amsoil. I have been using it for more than 10 years now
in my trucks, cars, boat, mx bike, streetbikes, rv, and in our race
cars. I have found out firsthand how good tis stuff really is
and have gone 10K miles between oil changes in my passenger vehicles w/ no problem. Better gas mileage and lower temps too.
amsoil makes some awsome filters and gear oil too. I've tried everything else on the market except royal purple and nothing
comes close.
 
sal002 said:
All these questions of oil....

I have found some very useful info at this place -> http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

Royal Purple is a good oil. So is Amsoil and Mobil1. I prefer Amsoil for one reason - it seems to hold up better than other synthetics (for extended drain).

Just don't keep it in your car for 25,000 miles - those people are crazy.

Seems like most of the 'experts' over there lean towards Mobil 1 or Redline for synthetics. Royal Purple hasn't received much positive feedback, possibly due to low usage? Anyway, I'm switching over this week, and I've pretty much decided to go Redline for engine and tranny. Probably Mobil 1 or OEM for the filter. By the way, my drain intervals are probably much shorter than most for safety (3 months, 3k miles, or 2 autocross events, whichever comes first...usually the autocross events).

Peace...(hippy)
 
i use Mobil1 5w-30 synthetic. probably the best stuff without going a bit higher, ie Redline and Motul. however, the oil filter is another story. after reading this OIL FILTER STUDY, i was determined not to buy Fram. it's not an official study, but somebody's interpretation, but it holds some key observations in it. below are excerpts taken from the site:

Basically, filters to AVOID:

Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

Fram Double Guard
Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure releif valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.

Penzoil
This filter is a Fram! It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.

Quaker State
This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Penzoil...
 
I think I used a 19mm closed-ended wrench to remove the plug.

Frams aren't that bad, though they aren't great. That study is old and improvements have been made. If staying in the inexpensive end - I'd buy a Wix, ProLine (Pep Boys brand), Puralotor or PureOne. If you are crazy, like me, get a K&N, Amsoil or Mobil1.
 
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