I received a lot of messages asking about how the car drove after the oil change and what's the best oil to use.
The vehicle definitely drives a lot smoother and no issues of leak or burnt oil smell to report. I can definitely feel the difference, it's so smooth I can't even feel the gear shifts.
I really don't want to get into a debate about which oil is best, some say Redline, some say Amsoil, I personally prefer Royal Purple (I have used this in the CX-9 with no problems, so I will stick with it). Honestly, in the end,
ANYTHING is better than the 1/2 qt of OEM oil after 30,000 miles; so long as it's GL-5 (SAE 75W140)
Since the procedure is so easy, I decided to redo the procedure and take a look at the oil condition this weekend after 1500 miles since changing the oil
(still can't understand how dealers can justify charging $159 for this service, it's just basically a simple oil change)
and based on what I have seen, it seems like a good idea to change twice on the same day as eskimo0101 suggests below to truly get rid of all the old oil, he is right, it is ABSOLUTELY impossible to suction out the old oil completely (some old oil is still on the gears that the sunction gun can't reach),
I can't imagine paying the stealership $159 TWICE on the same day, they will think I belong in the mental hospital.
BUT I'm sure you can get away with one change per day; twice might be overboard and considered OCD (ughdance) just kidding LOL
Even with a drain plug, you'll never ever get all the old oil out but if you truly want everything flushed out, it's best to follow what eskimo0101 suggested below, change once, go for a nice drive, and change again.
However, I think we can all concur the best solution is at the very least :
change the OEM transfer case oil at regular intervals (doesn't matter if it's once or twice)
Based on what I have seen so far, I'm going with every 6,000 miles, I will do this at the same time as my engine oil change. I am not a gearhead but if I can do this, I think anybody can.
I provided an update in the How-To section:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123847373-Changing-CX-9-transfer-case-gear-oil-%28photos%29
I really want to know what is the part number of the Mazda OEM transfer case fluid that came with the car originally, if anybody knows please let us know. Perhaps it's the same as the Ford Edge transfer case oil since they share the same transfer cases as the CX-9 ? I want to see the true color of the original fluid, I can't imagine it being black.
this is from Ford Edge forum (transfer case issues)
http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10914-ptu-leak-failures/page-2
the Ford Edge has the same exact transfer case as the CX-9, when you start smelling burning oil or see leaking oil,
DO NOT IGNORE IT! , you can still "save" the transfer case by changing out the oil. If not addressed, the TC will be damaged beyond repair or even worse take out the transmission with it as some members have reported
below is a picture from the Ford Edge forum, the oil has broken down and is "barfing" out thru the vent valve on top:
Ford Edge new oil looks to be amber/yellow:
Those Ford Edge guys are true gearheads, I bow to them, they took the whole darn transfer case apart !
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Below is a comparison picture of my fill plug at 38,000 (with no oil change) vs after 1500 miles (with oil change). The oil is definitely less viscous than before, it flows way smoother. The color is still dark but not black and sludgy like before. The dark color is probably from the leftover black oil that the suction gun couldn't reach but I'm sure after two more changes the black color will be eliminated once the new oil eventually flushes out the bad oil thru multiple oil changes.
Believe it or not, that's the
ENTIRE capacity I was able to suck out (about half a bottle of Poland Spring water bottle) shown in the video above, the miniscule oil capacity for this large size vehicle is a joke.
From a technical view, I submit it's not how hard the car is driven but rather there are two factors to consider when dealing with this low capacity,
1) length of continuous driving
this is just my theory, but if the oil has indeed broken down and driving the car for more than say 3 hours continuously, I believe there will be overheating issues
2) cold weather, when it's cold, old oil is pretty thick and can't lubricate the gears enough
Maybe some owners who had their transfer case replaced can chime in and help us out, is your daily commute a long drive and do you live in a cold part of the country ? and at what mileage did you encounter transfer case issues ?
Perhaps this is why some owners are lucky (someone posted 86K with no TC issue)
while others are not (someone posted transfer case failure at 29K),
depends on the length of their daily drives and climate.
Personally, I would consider changing the oil before a long road trip with the family just to make sure the transfer case doesn't overheat
AND changing the oil right before the cold winter season every year.