A quick 2 cents from fellow members

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raul_gianino

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2003 Mazda Protege5
Hey guys, so I've had my car sitting as low as can be on my bc coilovers. Ever since I lowered it the sway bar hit the lateral arms so I removed it. Been trying to get my hands on one until I finally did, bought the brackets for it... And wouldn't for or align properly onto my subframe. Got around to selling it and been like this since. I just finished putting wheels on my car, 17x8, 17x9 35 offset. I'm running -2.5 camber in the rear but wheels still poke a little which is fine, it looks good. However I rub on turns.

So now I'm wondering if I should get my hands on a msp subframe, brackets and sway bar to help with this ? Would it actually make a difference ? I'm not taking hard turns for the car is pretty low but just wondering.... I have the damper settings pretty darn stiff which helped a lot, but just asking....

Thanks !

707f3a78ad39c0d7f0ec7468d7787e4b.jpg



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First I had the oem p5 but took it out cause it hit. Then I got the racing beat and the brackets wouldn't align properly onto my subframe. And thank you man, means a lot. Been putting a lot of work and time into my p5


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What about using the clunk brackets? Adjustable endlinks? Fenders rolled? And thanks for the shot of the back. Now I know what mine will look like with step protector, hatch trim black and valance black.
 
What size tires are you running on the 17x8? Any rubbing issues with them? Did you have to use spacers or roll the fenders?

I just got a set of 17x8 given to me.that I'd like to put on the car, thinking 205/40 or 215/40 tires however I'm still on stock struts until I can get coilovers and I'm worries they'll be too wide and/or hit the spring perches....
 
I have 205/40 all around. And I do rub, haven't touched the fenders though. Slight camber, it's factory camber. But yeah haven't touched the fenders. You have any problems, but also depends on what offset your wheels are. I would check that, I have +35, after I roll fenders flat I plan on putting 7mm spacers to have a 28 offset


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I would try rolling the fenders, it might gain you the clearance that you need.

I had to do it in a parking lot yesterday, I had a Miata engine in the back and it was rubbing pretty good.

Another set a wheels would help alleviate it as well, something closer to 40 offset, 7 or 8 inches wide in the rear.
 
The wheels I have are +45 offset...from what I've been reading these cars need a +48 offset minimum so they don't rub...not much difference honestly with what one have, and 3mm spacers shouldn't be a big deal to find/make, but I'm really wondering if they would rub or not. These wheels came.off of a 96 probe by that my buddy had and he swears up and down that they will work on my car no problem...

How do the 205s look? Are the sidewalls flush or do they look stretched? In the pics they do look a bit narrow, which really has me leaning towards 215 40s. I want something that will cover the lip of the wheels
 
raul_gianino said:
205/40 is what I would run.


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Click to expand...

Thanks :)That was my thought originally...in the pics above though on your car they look like they don't cover the lip of the wheel...wonder if I were.to get tires in 205/40 with heavier bead (hankook and falken call it a rim guard, sidewall comes out over the lip of the wheel) if 205 would be wide wnoufh

I'm not planning on much (if any) drop in ride height honestly, although I am looking at ground control coilover sleeves with better struts in the future...at most maybe a 1" drop all around...
 
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MP5x2k3 said:
The wheels I have are +45 offset...from what I've been reading these cars need a +48 offset minimum so they don't rub...not much difference honestly with what one have, and 3mm spacers shouldn't be a big deal to find/make, but I'm really wondering if they would rub or not. These wheels came.off of a 96 probe by that my buddy had and he swears up and down that they will work on my car no problem...

How do the 205s look? Are the sidewalls flush or do they look stretched? In the pics they do look a bit narrow, which really has me leaning towards 215 40s. I want something that will cover the lip of the wheels
Click to expand...

I'm running +40 with a 7" wheel. The rear is close, but under normal driving conditions I haven't heard them rub. If I had the option to do it over, I would have went with a +45 to give a little more fender clearance.

MP5x2k3 said:
Thanks :)That was my thought originally...in the pics above though on your car they look like they don't cover the lip of the wheel...wonder if I were.to get tires in 205/40 with heavier bead (hankook and falken call it a rim guard, sidewall comes out over the lip of the wheel) if 205 would be wide wnoufh

I'm not planning on much (if any) drop in ride height honestly, although I am looking at ground control coilover sleeves with better struts in the future...at most maybe a 1" drop all around...
Click to expand...

A 225mm tire is about perfect for an 8" wheel. A 205 will be stretched some, but it will allow more clearance between the fender and tire, and some people dig that look. An 8" wheel shouldn't be a problem.
 
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MrGiggles said:
I'm running +40 with a 7" wheel. The rear is close, but under normal driving conditions I haven't heard them rub. If I had the option to do it over, I would have went with a +45 to give a little more fender clearance.



A 225mm tire is about perfect for an 8" wheel. A 205 will be stretched some, but it will allow more clearance between the fender and tire, and some people dig that look. An 8" wheel shouldn't be a problem.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Good to know! The wheel and tire thread said 17x7.5 required a 48 offset, so judging by that I need minimum of 48 to make the 17x8 work, but knowing a +40 fits without rubbing makes me less concerned with the 45mm I have. I don't want the wheels to stick out past the fenders, I'd be happy with flush or slightly tucked honestly. The rear is what really concerned me, that's the tight area that I'm worried about hitting perches

I'm trying.to avoid the stretched sidewall look honestly, I think it makes.the car look like a clown car. That and with the roads around here.being what they are (Pa has the worst roads in the.country), I want to avoid blowing beads when I hit potholes...so it sounds like I should be able to run 215/40 and split the difference to accomplish what I'm trying to do with no problems rubbing. Its not so much the fenders/quarter panels I'm worried sbout rubbing, more the spring perches on the struts. Not such a big issue once I get the gc coil sleeves and the right struts (trying.to find something like a KYB AGX that will fit the car). Any suggestions on struts I should use??

(OP, sorry for the thread jack)
 
No worries man, I've decided to just keep the car with no rear sway bar until I get an msp subframe with sway bar and brackets ! I'm glad you're getting the info you need! Depending how low you want to be, i would do 205, for a more functional height id do 215


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MP5x2k3 said:
Thanks! Good to know! The wheel and tire thread said 17x7.5 required a 48 offset, so judging by that I need minimum of 48 to make the 17x8 work, but knowing a +40 fits without rubbing makes me less concerned with the 45mm I have. I don't want the wheels to stick out past the fenders, I'd be happy with flush or slightly tucked honestly. The rear is what really concerned me, that's the tight area that I'm worried about hitting perches

I'm trying.to avoid the stretched sidewall look honestly, I think it makes.the car look like a clown car. That and with the roads around here.being what they are (Pa has the worst roads in the.country), I want to avoid blowing beads when I hit potholes...so it sounds like I should be able to run 215/40 and split the difference to accomplish what I'm trying to do with no problems rubbing. Its not so much the fenders/quarter panels I'm worried sbout rubbing, more the spring perches on the struts. Not such a big issue once I get the gc coil sleeves and the right struts (trying.to find something like a KYB AGX that will fit the car). Any suggestions on struts I should use??

(OP, sorry for the thread jack)
Click to expand...

The clearance between the bottom of the strut and tire never changes. The hub and wheel are bolted directly to it. If there's room when you put the wheel on, there will be room whether the suspension is compressed or extended.
 
Understood. Width and.height of the tires though can change.that gap. Which is what concerned me with 215/40-17. The extra inch in wheel size is going to fill that already small gap that is there even more. But hey, if they work that's awesome.to know and makes me less worried :p

Next question I have now about using these wheels is hoe well they'll clear the 626 brake upgrade :p
 
Hmm...anyone fill me in on somethinf? Searching for.tires tonight and narrowed down my choices to continental. Either the extremecontact dws or the truecontact, leaning towards the latter. Tire rack says that +1 sizing for the p5 is 215/45-17. Does the 45 series actually fit? Is that the stock size.on the msp/mp3? I'm going.to order thru work (Sears) and do their buy 3 get one free with my employee discount on top of it....price wise, the truecontact tires are $1/Ea cheaper than the extremecontact dws...so either way um good. Looking mostly for tread life and low rolling resistance with good snow traction, and the truecontact seems to be the best option. But I'm stuck with a 215/45-17 in that tire...
 
MrGiggles said:
It fits. Go with a +45 offset to minimize fender contact.
Click to expand...

Perfect! That's what offset those wheels I have are :) looks like I know what I'm doing on payday lol. Even better deal if I use the store card, gets me no interest/delayed billing for 6 months and another 10% off, bringing it down to 4 for 315 (normally $135 a tire at work for the truecontact). No spacers needed then with the 17x8 wheel?
 
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