A Little Pad and Rotor Removal/Installation Help Plz...

W

We Are Ninja

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2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT; 2004 Mazda 6 Wagon
So, a few days ago, my car started making a intermittent, metallic, chirping sound that tended increased with speed when it was actually present. I thought maybe a wheel bearing or a shock needed to be looked. When I touched the brakes, the noise would stop. After a day or so, the noise became much more persistent and began to get worse when I braked. That really narrowed it down. :)

I've known I've needed brakes for a while, so this is no surprise. I've ordered new MSP-specific pads and rotors that should be here soon. I took a wheel off to get a feel for my braking system and have NO IDEA how to get to the pads, much less how to get the rotors off... I've got the Haynes repair manual and it covers brakes on the 98 models. They're similar, but the calipers appear to be two parts bolted together. The pads are helded by a M/W clip on the older car, but the new car has this big, thick shield-y thing that's bolted down...

Can anybody provide any insight on how to get to the pads, and the rotors too, if possible?
 
Holy crap... How do you keep all that awesomeness inside? You have officially r0xx0red my vehicular s0xx0rz two days in a row, now...

Dunno how far away Cacapoopoopeepee is, but if you're ever in Dallas, let me know. I shall purchase thee a beer in appreciation.
 
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Side note on rotor removal. If you plan to beat the old rotors off with a hammer, put your lug nuts most of the way back on to protect the lug stud threads from angry, errant swings.
 
true....but they shouldnt take too much since you live in Texas and dont have to really deal w/ rust....mine took 1 little tap w/ a hammer and they were loose...
BradC said:
Side note on rotor removal. If you plan to beat the old rotors off with a hammer, put your lug nuts most of the way back on to protect the lug stud threads from angry, errant swings.
Click to expand...
 
after doing my brakes, and then reading the howto.... its soo much easier to change the pads without removing the caliper.

you should only remove the caliper when trying to remove/replace the rotors.

otherwise there is an 8mm allen bolt that will allow you to swing the caliper open and access the pads and piston. Much easier to replace pads that way.


EDIT: Just read first post on the How To and it was pointed out already :p lol...
 
evilmonkeyMSP said:
true....but they shouldnt take too much since you live in Texas and dont have to really deal w/ rust....mine took 1 little tap w/ a hammer and they were loose...
Click to expand...
True!

Here in good old salty PA, I had to beat those things forever to pop them off!
 
evilmonkeyMSP said:
lol the fact that he's doing rotors AND pads lol
Click to expand...


well what I do...

I remove the calipers then remove the rotors. Do what I gotta do (resurface or replace). Put the rotors back on, put the calipers back on, THEN open the caliper and do the pads.

its easier to remove/install the brake pads for me this way.
 
BradC said:
Side note on rotor removal. If you plan to beat the old rotors off with a hammer, put your lug nuts most of the way back on to protect the lug stud threads from angry, errant swings.
Click to expand...


that and it helps you from hammering the rotor off of the wheel and having it fall and damaged... (if you arent replacing them)
 
Last question,

After the wheel and the caliper are off, is the rotor only held on by rust or are there screws or something else I need to remove?
 
We Are Ninja said:
Last question,

After the wheel and the caliper are off, is the rotor only held on by rust or are there screws or something else I need to remove?
Click to expand...


nope - only held on by rust... get a mallet (or foot or hammer if you are replacing) and pound it out...
 
Thank you guys sooooooo frikkin' much. I thought this would be an all-day thing. It doesn't look so bad, now.
 
mine turned into all day cuz I flushed my brakes LOL

that was fun....hooray speedbleeder!
 
evilmonkeyMSP said:
hehe one of mine was loose as soon as the caliper came off...I <3 no rust FL
Click to expand...


dont feel amazed... even in saltsville 2 of mine werent rusted on and wiggled right off...

I think its more a matter of how you clean the rotor hats BEFORE you reassemble the caliper.

technically youre supposed to clean (grind rust/corrosion off) the rotor hat, inside and out as well as the stud plate...
 
make sure you lube up your sliders and pins with quality brake grease.

doesn't hurt to put some anti-seize on the rotors where it contacts your hubs and wheels.
 
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