CX-5 Brake noise after replacing rotors and pads

[yrwei52]

None taken at all! Thats the life experience I had to set just that habit. Thankfully Autozone down the street had a replacement bolt in stock that day. Could have sucked way worse, so always need to pay close attention to the wrench doing that little fold when it hits the right torque. Its little 1/4” brother from harbor freight works great just like the 1/2”, I just got a bum 3/8” wrench. It’s always worked without the audible noise so I haven’t bothered to replace it all of these years lol!

I have 2 Sears Craftsman ½” torque wrenches since years ago. I used them mainly on tire lug nuts or bolts. For small bolts and nuts I trust my arm based on my experience and lessons not to snap them. Later after I read good reviews on those “cheap” torque wrenches from Harbor Freight Tools, I bought ½”、⅜“ and ¼“ torque wrenches with coupons. Yeah the HF ½” torque wrench is indeed pretty accurate compared to my Craftsman’s. Used ⅜“ HF torque wrench only a couple of times just for fun. Haven’t used ¼“ HF torque wrench yet as I still prefer my arm feeling while tighten those smaller bolts and nuts.

Can’t do anything else in the dark as the power outage has been going on in our area for more than 2 hours! No severe weather, nothing, just power outage with no reasons!

 

[Jmaz]

I really don’t like the torque “range” given by the Mazda manual. Others give only a single number, no guessing.

So in the example of the bolt to caliper pin / guide, 30 ~ 39 N-m / 23 ~ 28 ft-lbf, I really don’t think the bolt should snap that easy at 30 or 34.5 ft-lbf (usually I just use the median from given torque range) if its maximum torque limit is 28 ft-lbf.

I agree. I think the median of the specified (I use 25) is still a bit on the high side and I think my torque wrench was set to 35 and it snapped before getting there. In days gone by I just would have snugged it up good with my 3/8" ratchet and called it good. I remember only using a torque wrench on head and intake manifold bolts. Everything else was "tight enough". No failures. Didn't twist off valve cover , water pump or oil pan bolts. Brake parts didn't come loose and so forth. Lug nuts were tightened with a 4 way to the same "feel".
I operated for years out of a Craftsman 18" portable tool box a friend gave me. If you do just basic DIY maintenance it really doesn't require a lot of tools. Anymore I only use just a few sizes of wrench or sockets. And then we won't have to worry when we all get an EV. Right? LOL. Carry on.

 

[GTXT23]

I replaced both my front rotors and pads 3 months ago. After some time. I was hearing this crunch/grinding sound when braking on my passenger front side. I will only notice the noise after a bit of driving. Don't see any damage to the rotors. The Sound went away after I added some grease to the caliper pins and contact points of the pads again. Then it will come back again after a few weeks. Any other things I should check? Use Raybestos for both rotors and pads. Driver's side seems to be fine.

Were OE pads/ rotors too expensive or did you find Raybestos to be a better all around deal?

 

[madar]

You have a 2013 CX-5 and you should use 2 different brake greases in the areas based on the diagram in post #23.

I use this for everything down there

https://www.crcindustries.com/synthetic-brake-caliper-grease-2-5-wt-oz/

 

[CTt3P5]

I was doing the same thing of checking if the side that had the noise was a bit warmer but does not seem to be. The first time i have re-lubed. i did remove the pads again to inspect and clean the back pads and grease them. That actually removed the sound for some time and came back again. Been using Raybestos for a few years now and this was the first time i had this type of issue. This time i just re-lubed the pins to isolate if that is the only thing. But did not resolved it.

So far so good as the noise hasn't come back for me. Are you still having the noise or did you get it resolved?

I believe the service manual calls for a small dab of brake grease on the back of the inboard (piston side) pad.

I applied to both the inboard and outboard pads. Since I had them both out, I figured it couldn't hurt. haha

I have 2 Sears Craftsman ½” torque wrenches since years ago. I used them mainly on tire lug nuts or bolts. For small bolts and nuts I trust my arm based on my experience and lessons not to snap them. Later after I read good reviews on those “cheap” torque wrenches from Harbor Freight Tools, I bought ½”、⅜“ and ¼“ torque wrenches with coupons. Yeah the HF ½” torque wrench is indeed pretty accurate compared to my Craftsman’s. Used ⅜“ HF torque wrench only a couple of times just for fun. Haven’t used ¼“ HF torque wrench yet as I still prefer my arm feeling while tighten those smaller bolts and nuts.

Can’t do anything else in the dark as the power outage has been going on in our area for more than 2 hours! No severe weather, nothing, just power outage with no reasons!

Guilty of the same when it comes to most things. I have never used a torque wrench when doing the brakes on any of my vehicles and never had an issue *goes to find wood to knock on* But now y'all have me thinking and for piece of mind, I will have to roll the MX-5 up on ramps to loosen and torque the bolts properly.

 

[murky]

I use this for everything down there

https://www.crcindustries.com/synthetic-brake-caliper-grease-2-5-wt-oz/

Notices it doesn't say "pins":

"Backing plates, brake pad contact points, caliper o-rings, calipers, disc brake pads, drum brake systems, grommets, parking brake areas of lubrication, pivot points, self adjusters"

 

[madar]

Notices it doesn't say "pins":

"Backing plates, brake pad contact points, caliper o-rings, calipers, disc brake pads, drum brake systems, grommets, parking brake areas of lubrication, pivot points, self adjusters"

You left this part out....

"High temperature grease is plastic & rubber safe. Use on metal to metal contact points and sliding surfaces. Resists moisture and will not washout."

I've been using this for many years but you may be right. I haven't had any problems and everything always slides easily upon disassembly. You have me curious so I emailed them.

Their response:

Thank you for choosing CRC Products. For brake pins, the Synthetic Brake and Caliper grease would be fine. In certain applications where the manufacturer suggests a silicone grease(such as Toyota and Honda) we would a silicone lubricant such as our Silaramic grease. It will not only lubricate, but it will also condition the rubber boots and isolators on the pins. Let us know if you have any additional questions.

This would probably be a better alternative

https://www.crcindustries.com/silaramic-174-brake-system-grease-5-wt-oz/

 

[murky]

You left this part out....

"High temperature grease is plastic & rubber safe. Use on metal to metal contact points and sliding surfaces. Resists moisture and will not washout."

I've been using this for many years but you may be right. I haven't had any problems and everything always slides easily upon disassembly. You have me curious so I emailed them.

Their response:

Thank you for choosing CRC Products. For brake pins, the Synthetic Brake and Caliper grease would be fine. In certain applications where the manufacturer suggests a silicone grease(such as Toyota and Honda) we would a silicone lubricant such as our Silaramic grease. It will not only lubricate, but it will also condition the rubber boots and isolators on the pins. Let us know if you have any additional questions.

This would probably be a better alternative

https://www.crcindustries.com/silaramic-174-brake-system-grease-5-wt-oz/

Impressive that they responded so quickly.

 

[yrwei52]

⋯ In certain applications where the manufacturer suggests a silicone grease(such as Toyota and Honda) we would a silicone lubricant such as our Silaramic grease. It will not only lubricate, but it will also condition the rubber boots and isolators on the pins. Let us know if you have any additional questions.

This would probably be a better alternative

https://www.crcindustries.com/silaramic-174-brake-system-grease-5-wt-oz/

The key to the brake grease which can be used on caliper pins / guides is “rubber friendly”.

 

[madar]

The key to the brake grease which can be used on caliper pins / guides is “rubber friendly”.

"Plastic and rubber safe" is, in my book, the same thing. Potato, potahto....

 

[stickerbush]

How does one know whether CX5 has one- or two-piston calipers on the front brakes? Does it go by model, turbos have 2-piston, else have 1-piston?

 

[yrwei52]

How does one know whether CX5 has one- or two-piston calipers on the front brakes? Does it go by model, turbos have 2-piston, else have 1-piston?

All models including CX-9 with the 2.5T use 2-piston caliper at front. All 2.5L NA models use single-piston caliper at front.

 

[stickerbush]

The 2018 service manual does not show any grease on the pads, just the caliper pins. I'm inclined to put a bit of grease on the back of the pad that contacts the piston, is there any harm in doing so?

 

[yrwei52]

The 2018 service manual does not show any grease on the pads, just the caliper pins. I'm inclined to put a bit of grease on the back of the pad that contacts the piston, is there any harm in doing so?

Yes you brought up a good question. Not like Gen-1 CX-5 which uses anti-rattle brake grease on the back of the disk pads, Gen-2 CX-5 uses some brake grease at both end of pads, not on the back. It’s against common knowledge that brake grease is needed on the back of the pads to prevent brake rattling.

I’d put a bit of brake grease ONLY on metal-to-metal contact points to the pads, including the caliper piston ring. Be very careful the grease doesn’t touch any rubber boots around the piston.