1.6 ZM going forged

Witchdoktor said:
damn you. now I'm googling flywheels


https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)


XTD any good?
Click to expand...
:)

never heard of them, so don't know. Not bad price. This one is a chrome-moly one weights about 9lbs. The aluminum one like the aasco and fidanza are 8lbs. But way lighter then the stock which was like 15+lbs. If they had the XTD one back in the day, i would scarafic the 1lbs different and got that and saved some $. There wasn't much flywheels back a few years ago, so i got the aasco, after founding out the the miata flywheel fit. I learned this from biknman on another forum that had one too.
 
why you guys complain about 8lbs? just get rid of the stock hood and go for a fiber carbon

Or is any other good effect from the flywheel?
 
How a lightweight flywheel works​

How does a lightweight flywheel work? Amongst the majority, there are two schools of thought concerning light flywheels. The first is that they do not contribute to power output. The second is that they do. Which thought is correct? In fact both, in a way, are correct.

If we measured the power output of an engine first with light flywheel and then again with the standard part on an engine dyno, no change in power will be seen to occur. At first it appears that the light flywheel has done nothing and was a total waste of cash. This is not the case. A dyno that shows max power at constant revs does not demonstrate what happens to an engine's power output in real life situations - like acceleration. If an engine is accelerated on a dyno (we are talking about a rate of around 2000rpm a second ) it would show a power output of around 20%-25% less than at the constant rev state.

The reason for this is that when accelerating a vehicle the engine not only has to push the total mass of the car but the internal components of the engine need to be accelerated also. This tends to absorb more power as the extra power is used accelerating the internal mass of the engine components and is why a motor accelerating on a dyno will produce less power than at constant revs. Also it must be remembered that the rate of acceleration on the engine internals is much greater that the rest of the car. This would then suggest that by lightening the flywheel, less power would be required to accelerate it and therefore more power would be available to push the car along.
 
^^ what he said. There is less rotational mass to turn, which in turn uses less power from the engine to turn the wheels. Simple physics

Lilchild- Good luck finding a carbon hood for a 99-00. And if you do it is around 600. Vis used to make them, but discontinued.
 
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i got it know.. less mass to pull

the carbon fiber was just an option.. im gonna sell my car anyways hehe

then a good combination will be light flywheel, light pulleys and light & small rims
 
Food for thought

Just remember with using wheels of a different size your messing with the gear ratios which will change your power band. There are calculators on the web to figure this all out. But making wheels bigger or small than the Mazda designed them to be will move the power band around i.e. normally lets say in third gear at forty miles an hour would be at let's say 4500rpms a good boost rpm near the stock 1.6 motor max power rpm with the stock wheel/tires diameter. SO if you where to go with smaller wheels at the same speed and gear you might be outside the rpm of 4500 maybe even lower putting you out of the boost range and power rpms of the stock 1.6 motor. And its impossible without a large bank account to get new final drive gear (ring and pinion) for the F series to compensation for the wheel diameters change. FYI its also screws up your speedometer readings which in the stock ECU could effect some of the tuning especially if you have an automatic trans.

Note the fianal drive gear in the 1.6 Pro could use a let help any-who as it is geared from more ecnomy than get power to the ground. Maybe somthing like 4.30 like Mazdaspeed and Emco has out for the G series trans.
 
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30hp, dunno about that. driveability comes before performance so I'm not sure about messing with the flywheel or pulleys just yet.
 
SRmotorsports main pulley added to the list.

still unsure what I want to do with the flywheel at the moment. resurface the stock one or go with a lightweight. driveability issue is the weighing factor. after reading about stalling, idling issues, and low rpm issues with the lightweight flywheel I got a bit more researching to do.

adjustable cam gears (SRmotorsports) for $400. claim 8-15hp. bah
 
Subbing, your car is definitely one of my favorites. Been following it since the dual exhaust project, and that interior=hot!

@Biknman: Where in MD are you? That car looks sick.
 
engine got pulled and torn down. cylinder #4 that had bad compression and 50% on a leak-down test had a cracked piston. lucky for me it didn't break off completely. all you had to do was scratch at the crack just a bit and then a piece just chipped off. (pics of it posted)

I'm going a different route with the pistons. the bottom end from the B6 miata is supposedly the same as the ZM protege but for some reason two different ZM people had to skim 1mm off their miata pistons to fit the ZM. human error? some variable between the two motors? don't know don't care. no need to risk losing warranties (parts and labor) and alter the pistons.
 
Witchdoktor said:
engine got pulled and torn down. cylinder #4 that had bad compression and 50% on a leak-down test had a cracked piston. lucky for me it didn't break off completely. all you had to do was scratch at the crack just a bit and then a piece just chipped off. (pics of it posted)

I'm going a different route with the pistons. the bottom end from the B6 miata is supposedly the same as the ZM protege but for some reason two different ZM people had to skim 1mm off their miata pistons to fit the ZM. human error? some variable between the two motors? don't know don't care. no need to risk losing warranties (parts and labor) and alter the pistons.
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Freaking awesome dude congrats to you for finally get something worked out for forged internals for all us boosted 1.6ers. You'd the man:)! I just haven't had the time or funds lately to get it done along with zero vendor interest that I could muster up. What compression ratio are you going to have the pistons (boosted motor) set up for i.e. 8.0 8.5 8.8 9.0? To low and we'll lose off boost power to high we won't be able to boost enough. I think stock is 9.0 so probably a 8.8 would be good. I guess the Arias engineers would be best for figuring this out.

Again thanks for your efforts,
 
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lightweight crank pulley and flywheel are in

spent the day doing a little bling-bling. polished up a bit the intake mani, coolant line, and fuel rail. then sprayed a few coats of 500 degree engine enamel.

half the day was spent prepping the valve cover.....sanding down the letters and stripping the wrinkle paint, I forgot how many coats it had.
 
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