Automatic Transmission Fluid - Can you change it?

I am a Mazda dealer and there is no "fill plug" per say. The SKYACTIV-Drive transmission is a "sealed unit" and there is no recommended service for the transmission, hence the "lifetime" fluid perception. This does not mean you cannot change the fluid, because it is possible, just not nearly as easy as a conventional transmission.

No offense to you, but this is exactly why I do my own maintenance.

You say its a sealed unit, and don't worry about it, the dealer in FL says its not and can be serviced, and the dealer I got mine from says to change it every 30k miles (ha!).

So at least 2 people are wrong, and have no business working on other peoples cars.
 
Not necessarily a problem applying to all auto trannys. If the fluid is truly cooked (and impacting performance) in the Tacoma, that's a sign of inadequate transmission cooling specific to that design.

it might have been a bit too much full throttle driving in 100 degree heat to zip around traffic too :)

I agree it depends on what is considered 'lifetime' as the Tacoma is still going with 207,000 and at 140,000 the Protege5 shifted like new when it was sold. Will the fluid the the CX5 really go 250,000 miles. I've known a couple people with Chryslers and for those 'lifetime' for the transmission seemed to be 80,000 miles. And in a generation of Honda's the transmission tended to last about that.

I'd personally prefer to spend a few dollars here and there on fluid and not spend a bunch of dollars on a transmission.
 
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Read post #2 if you want to know how to change it.

That does not apply to my Lexus IS tranny.

Since we are on a CX-5 forum, please read post #13 regarding CX-5 (being the thread topic).
 
it might have been a bit too much full throttle driving in 100 degree heat to zip around traffic too :)

I agree it depends on what is considered 'lifetime' as the Tacoma is still going with 207,000 and at 140,000 the Protege5 shifted like new when it was sold. Will the fluid the the CX5 really go 250,000 miles. I've known a couple people with Chryslers and for those 'lifetime' for the transmission seemed to be 80,000 miles. And in a generation of Honda's the transmission tended to last about that.

I'd personally prefer to spend a few dollars here and there on fluid and not spend a bunch of dollars on a transmission.

I do see your points brought up and that's why newer cars have tranny overheating warning lights, best to avoid cooking in the first place with better trans coolers and advance warning before damaging overheating takes place.

Some of the crap Chrysler and Honda trannys would fail no matter how many times you change fluid, bad design is bad design even with new fluid.

Like you I will make my own educated decision in accordance w/manufacturer recommendations. My lifetime filled Lexus and Mazda will remain sealed, to me that's the path of least risk specific to those 2 trannys. Others should of course maintain differently if that makes them feel better.
 
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No offense to you, but this is exactly why I do my own maintenance.

You say its a sealed unit, and don't worry about it, the dealer in FL says its not and can be serviced, and the dealer I got mine from says to change it every 30k miles (ha!).

So at least 2 people are wrong, and have no business working on other peoples cars.

No offense taken!

All my info comes straight from Mazda, which to their credit has done a really good job of training the staff in our region (North East). I cannot vouch for other areas. It's possible that the dealer suggesting tranny flushes at 30K has not gone to school on the SKYACTIV-DRIVE unit yet.

My info was confirmed by another member who actually posted the SKYACTIV-DRIVE diagram. Also, notice the owners manual does not disclose any recommended transmission service.

Again, it is possible to change the fluid as has been mentioned before. If you want to do it and you feel you are qualified to do so, go a head and do it!!!
 
That does not apply to my Lexus IS tranny.

Since we are on a CX-5 forum, please read post #13 regarding CX-5 (being the thread topic).

The transmission on your IS has a drain plug, some way to get fluid into it, and a return line for the fluid to get back into the trans... you CAN do exactly as I said.

If you choose not to, thats your choice.
 
The transmission on your IS has a drain plug, some way to get fluid into it, and a return line for the fluid to get back into the trans... you CAN do exactly as I said.

If you choose not to, thats your choice.

Not about choice, more about not applicable.

Requires special adapter and special expensive machine, not a DIY process. From the factory there is no external connection for machine. The Lexus owners know.

Again this thread is about CX-5...
 
Not about choice, more about not applicable.

Requires special adapter and special expensive machine, not a DIY process. From the factory there is no external connection for machine. The Lexus owners know.

Again this thread is about CX-5...

That's if you want to hook it to a flush machine, which I wouldn't do. I'd do what I wrote in post #2, and would do the same thing with the CX.
 
That's if you want to hook it to a flush machine, which I wouldn't do. I'd do what I wrote in post #2, and would do the same thing with the CX.

Yes, and I would not, since it's not the recommended procedure by both manufacturers (Lexus and Mazda).
 
Yes, and I would not, since it's not the recommended procedure by both manufacturers (Lexus and Mazda).

LOL
You're right. The "recommended" procedure is to leave it in and not worry about it. In their eyes, the fluid is good enough to get the customer out of their warranty.

I wrote post 2 for folks like me, who would rather change the fluid as a precaution. I'd much rather spend $100 on new fluid every 50-70k miles than spending $4k on a trans because it was never done.
 
I just bought a 2014 CX-5 and was looking at things about this car. There is a "how-to ATF drain & fill" in service manual.

http://am.mazdaserviceinfo.com/emaz...4/CX5/nv/books/nvw05/html/id0517h2118600.html
(you need to disable javascript, or press esc as soon as the page loads)


-----below is copy & paste----
2014 - CX-5 - Transmission/Transaxle

AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID (ATF) REPLACEMENT [FW6A-EL, FW6AX-EL]

WARNING:
Do not perform the servicing while the ATF is hot. Otherwise, it could cause severe burns or serious injury.

1. Remove the front under cover No.2. (See FRONT UNDER COVER No.2 REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.)
2. Remove the dipstick securing bolt.
3. Remove the dipstick.

4. Remove the drain plug and washer, and drain the ATF.
5. Install a new washer and drain plug.
Tightening torque
3041 Nm {3.14.1 kgfm, 2330 ftlbf}

6. Add ATF from the dipstick installation hole.
NOTE:
The ATF color is blue.
Only use ATF FZ for the FW6A-EL, FW6AX-EL.

ATF type
ATF FZ

Resupply amount (Reference)
ATF is drained from drain plug: 3.54.9 L {3.75.1 US qt, 3.14.3 Imp qt}

7. Adjust the ATF level. (See AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID (ATF) ADJUSTMENT [FW6A-EL, FW6AX-EL].)
8. Insert the dipstick and install the securing bolt.
Tightening torque
811 Nm {82112 kgfcm, 7197 inlbf}

9. Install the front under cover No.2. (See FRONT UNDER COVER No.2 REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.)
---------------------------


I used to do ATF drain & fill on my 2007 Elantra every 10k miles because it was so easy. I'll probably do drain & fill on my cx-5 at least every 30k miles.
 
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On my 2004 M6 with the somewhat fragile 5 speed auto, I followed the advice in the Mazda6/Atenza forum and installed an inline transmission filter (Wix) and a B&M transmission cooler. I had the first filter changed at 10,000 miles and had it cut open and inspected. The shop said it was almost plugged with the hair that comes off the AT bands. Since then I've had it changed twice - no contamination to speak of. The ATF was changed to synthetic at 70,000. Currently the car has 196,000 miles on it and the transmission is every bit as tight and reliable as new. If you go to the Mazda6/Atenza site, you'll find all kinds of horror stories about ATs going out at very low mileage. Not having a filter and external cooler on the transmission is just asking for trouble. We take the time and spend the money to insure the engine lasts forever and ignore the next most expensive unit in the vehicle. Someone here said "lifetime" to most manufacturers (Mazda included) means "long enough to last past the warranty". My CX5 is getting a filter and cooler in the next month. The M6 is still in use - my significant other. I expect it to last another 100,000 miles.
 
I just did mine I'll post pics under how to. You do a drain and fill to restore viscosity. 3 to 5 qt will drain. A full flush is not recommended and could result in damage. Nothing complicated it was my first time changing atf, I had recently changed my own oil and installed a drain valve; easy even if your experience is low.
 
On my 2004 M6 with the somewhat fragile 5 speed auto, I followed the advice in the Mazda6/Atenza forum and installed an inline transmission filter (Wix) and a B&M transmission cooler. I had the first filter changed at 10,000 miles and had it cut open and inspected. The shop said it was almost plugged with the hair that comes off the AT bands. Since then I've had it changed twice - no contamination to speak of. The ATF was changed to synthetic at 70,000. Currently the car has 196,000 miles on it and the transmission is every bit as tight and reliable as new. If you go to the Mazda6/Atenza site, you'll find all kinds of horror stories about ATs going out at very low mileage. Not having a filter and external cooler on the transmission is just asking for trouble. We take the time and spend the money to insure the engine lasts forever and ignore the next most expensive unit in the vehicle. Someone here said "lifetime" to most manufacturers (Mazda included) means "long enough to last past the warranty". My CX5 is getting a filter and cooler in the next month. The M6 is still in use - my significant other. I expect it to last another 100,000 miles.
There is a filter, its just not meant to be replaced under regular circumstance. Its part of the atf pan, but unless you are getting metal in your fluid no need to change it. If you really want you can unbolt and clean it and reseal it.
 
There is a filter, its just not meant to be replaced under regular circumstance. Its part of the atf pan, but unless you are getting metal in your fluid no need to change it. If you really want you can unbolt and clean it and reseal it.

Not to get snarky, but the whole point is to not get metal in your fluid. An external filter is the best way to check the status of your AT and fluid.
 
Not to get snarky, but the whole point is to not get metal in your fluid. An external filter is the best way to check the status of your AT and fluid.

That's convenient, however Mazda did not provide skyactiv drive with an external filter.
 
...Not having a filter and external cooler on the transmission is just asking for trouble. We take the time and spend the money to insure the engine lasts forever and ignore the next most expensive unit in the vehicle. Someone here said "lifetime" to most manufacturers (Mazda included) means "long enough to last past the warranty". My CX5 is getting a filter and cooler in the next month. The M6 is still in use - my significant other. I expect it to last another 100,000 miles.

But then I'm guessing they won't provide warranty for the modified transmission (even though it's not the cause) if any problems develop. I think drain and fill (every 20-30k miles) is good enough as long as you don't race your car. I did this when I had my Elantra 2007 because it was really easy to do, but it looks a bit harder on these Mazdas so I'm increasing the interval.
 
Most automatics have fluid in them that will go 100k. I think its a "sealed" unit, which means that there isn't a dipstick to check the fluid. There should be a drain plug on the bottom of the trans pan with a fill plug in the side (like a manual trans), so changing the fluid shouldn't be an issue at all.

The trans on my tacoma is a sealed unit, and I just flushed it myself about 2 months ago. To do this, I just drained the fluid in the trans and measured how much came out (4qts). Then disconnected the return line to the trans, and added 4qts back into the trans and started the vehicle and let the trans pump pump out the fluid in the torque converter and lines. I measured how much fluid was being pumped out, and when it pumped out 3qts, i shut it off so the pump wouldn't run dry, then added 3qts of fresh fluid into the trans and repeated the procedure until the fluid being pumped out was nice and bright red. Then toped it off, and checked the fluid level.

it was really easy, and by using the trans pump instead of a flush machine, it didn't allow the metal shavings in the bottom of the pan to be distributed through the transmission and lines. IMO its the best way to ensure all of the fluid is pumped out.

I don't see why the same procedure wouldn't work on the mazda trans.

This is what I did twice when I had my Honda Odyssey. Once you figure out the connections (in/out) this is quite easy job. I'll do it on CX-5 when it hits 60K or so...
 
Out of curiosity I need to look for the dipstick. Looks like it is secured with a bolt like my Infiniti is.

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