Rear Speaker Discussion
- Thread starter 1sty
- Start date
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- 03' silver dx
Does this discussion only apply to mostly the p5 or the 3's or does it also apply to sedans as well?? I ended up already buying a mono amp to run my 2 12's, and a set of infinity 5x7/6x8's for my fronts, but am not sure whether to buy a 2ch. amp to run just the fronts from the amp and still use the rear deck speakers for a rear fill , or to go with a 4ch amp and buy rear deck speakers as well... I like the sound to be even all around though so would that be a problem to not replace the rears?? Would the infinity's with the tweeter built in be ok if I did this or would it be best to return the speakers and buy components instead?
question: now that i've installed some good speakers in the front, i'd like to reuse the "old" component system for the back, but without the tweeters.
my problem: i thought about using the x-overs provided with the set, but it cuts the tweeters off at about 4khz with an 12db slope. actually i'd like to have the rear speakers play without any voices coming from it..but i'm afraid that won't work with the 4khz cut :\\\
any idea how to solve that problem in a passively driven system?
my problem: i thought about using the x-overs provided with the set, but it cuts the tweeters off at about 4khz with an 12db slope. actually i'd like to have the rear speakers play without any voices coming from it..but i'm afraid that won't work with the 4khz cut :\\\
any idea how to solve that problem in a passively driven system?
Build your own custom passive crossovers. A LP point of 250-500Hz will provide you with additional midbass, without pulling the sound back too much. I've never experimented with this so I don't know what kind of results you are going to achieve. You can prolly get by with a simple 6db/octave filter. Research building passive crossovers on google for more info.
Rear speakers important in lue of Subs?
I upgraded my stock speakers in my '02 Protege. I got the following:
Infinity 6812CF coaxial 6x8'' in the front
Infinity 9612i Coaxial 6x9'' in the rear deck
I installed and soon found out I need an amp. Which I ordered and will recieve tomorrow:
Profile 1040hd 4 x 80W RMS
I am not planning on getting a sub in the near future, I am very hopefull that Amping these speakers (especially the rear) will produce enough bass to satisfy my humble audio needs. I am keeping my head unit, and I use a mounted PDA for music and GPS.
In this context, I feel rear speakers are important. Or are they a mistake, and should I have gone straight for the subs?
Please share your opinions on this!
-B
I upgraded my stock speakers in my '02 Protege. I got the following:
Infinity 6812CF coaxial 6x8'' in the front
Infinity 9612i Coaxial 6x9'' in the rear deck
I installed and soon found out I need an amp. Which I ordered and will recieve tomorrow:
Profile 1040hd 4 x 80W RMS
I am not planning on getting a sub in the near future, I am very hopefull that Amping these speakers (especially the rear) will produce enough bass to satisfy my humble audio needs. I am keeping my head unit, and I use a mounted PDA for music and GPS.
In this context, I feel rear speakers are important. Or are they a mistake, and should I have gone straight for the subs?
Please share your opinions on this!
-B
6x9s can put out quite a bit of bass. Experiment with the crossover settings on the amp once you have it installed. Sometimes it is best to low-pass 6x9 speakers at about 100Hz and high-pass your front speakers at the same point. That way you don't get any high-frequency information coming from them and they are only there to beef up the bass which your smaller front speakers cannot produce.
Thanks for the quick response.
This is my first install, and I will definatly shoot for what you recommend.
Another concern of mine are the front speakers. In my Protoge, they are at shin level in the doors. Typically, while driving, I'll block the door speaker with my leg, as will my passenger (if I have one).
I've read about the "soundstage" argument, and basically agree with it. I understand that a component front speaker would be the solution.
Does anyone else have this problem? Or will amped front speakers overcome my acoustic leg obsticle?
(hi)
This is my first install, and I will definatly shoot for what you recommend.
Another concern of mine are the front speakers. In my Protoge, they are at shin level in the doors. Typically, while driving, I'll block the door speaker with my leg, as will my passenger (if I have one).
I've read about the "soundstage" argument, and basically agree with it. I understand that a component front speaker would be the solution.
Does anyone else have this problem? Or will amped front speakers overcome my acoustic leg obsticle?
(hi)
thatmaoriboy
Member
- :
- Mazda Familia SP20 1999
got wake? said:
Gidday, do you know of any threads that may help with a DIY installation of 8's? Can you get away with just one door or is one in each door needed for even sound?
I dont know if your still around to get this answer but there are a few issues within the statement.
1. We have to identify what you mean by a 3-way system.
- A lot of marketing companies call a tri-axle speaker a three way when they glue 2 crappy tweeters to mid range speaker. My suggestion with these is to listen to the speakers first and evaulate how you like the sound. Do not even bother thinking about it being a 2-way vs a 3-way vs a 4-way. Speakers come down to how they sound to you and these terms are from marketing departments.
2. Tweeters are just a driver, they can be part of a component system, part of a triaxle or coaxle speaker or pruchased seperately. So no, you do not need a seperate tweeter in addition to whatever your front speakers are. They may already have a tweeter, its just not seperate from the mids.
Here is an example:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_components.php?comp_id=491
These speakers have a tweeter mounted to the center of the midrange.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_components.php?comp_id=490
These are the exact same tweeter and midrange, just seperated.
Adding that tweeter can make alot of system sound worse. This is what happens when people just start tossing speakers into a car ontop of each other. Speakers can counteract each other, and always will.
You can, its not right or wrong depending on the context, its jsut about what you want to achieve and what you think sounds good.
can anyone tell wheather this speaker fits on rear deck of protege? - http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=9230584&type=product&id=1218063829585
the fitment guide on best buys says no.,.,.
the fitment guide on best buys says no.,.,.
I have Front and rear deck speakers in the Protege. Both sets are Pioneer 3 way 6x9's. They are all powered by a Pioneer 600w Amp ran through the stock HU (keep thieves away). The only thing I don't like about the Pioneers are the lack of midrange. I have added a 12" Pioneer Premier sub and an open enclosure/450w Amp for it and it has helped somewhat.
I plan on getting another 600w Amp and 2 speakers for the rear doors, or move the rear deck speakers to the doors. The system is loud enough with distortion only on the high end of the spectrum. If there is one thing I would change would to get rid of my 12" and get 2 short throw 8's in there instead. Thrash metal tends to make the sub "wash" out.
I plan on getting another 600w Amp and 2 speakers for the rear doors, or move the rear deck speakers to the doors. The system is loud enough with distortion only on the high end of the spectrum. If there is one thing I would change would to get rid of my 12" and get 2 short throw 8's in there instead. Thrash metal tends to make the sub "wash" out.
lilpoindexter
Member
- :
- 99 prot 95 miata
I have a 99 protege sedan...I think I have rockford fosgate 6x8's (or whatever the size is) run from an external amp, and a sub in a box run from another amp. I was going to hook up the rear speakers to the internal amp of the head unit, but i decided against it...not really sure why, but I think I thought the sound would be distorted and not able to match the spl of the door speakers and sub...It's kind of weird to listen to a car with only front speakers...doesn't sound quite as "lush" as a car with rear speakers, It hasn't bothered me enough to wire them, though
I'd disagree somewhat with the bolded text.
I upgraded my '03 P5 to a Clarion DXZ945MP, probably the best unit I've ever owned. Was a 1 hr swap with the proper harness and dash kit, only annoyance was the requirement for 2 power sources but I found an unused 20A circuit in the fuse block which I utilized.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-qmb81LJBFKB/learn/reviews/20040323/clarion_dxz945mp.html
The change in the head unit made a world of difference to the stock speakers, they have some decent mid-range punch now. I set the xover at 120hz high-pass and added a 10" to pick up the low end.
May still change the door speakers, starting with the rears...but that's a job for next summer...When I take it to the drive-in...will be curious to try out the Dolby Surround settings.
Adding the 120Hz HP filter was a wise decision. Without it, it usually is only a matter of weeks before the factory speakers crap out with the additional power.
Sure, the factory speakers will sound more dynamic when you first connect an aftermarket head unit to them, but they don't last. Why do they appear to sound better? It's because the factory head unit in most cars has a HP filter built in around 100Hz which prevent the cheap speakers from being overloaded with bass. Without that filter, they over extend and the paper surrounds crack and separate and eventually start sounding like a bag-o-farts.
Sure, the factory speakers will sound more dynamic when you first connect an aftermarket head unit to them, but they don't last. Why do they appear to sound better? It's because the factory head unit in most cars has a HP filter built in around 100Hz which prevent the cheap speakers from being overloaded with bass. Without that filter, they over extend and the paper surrounds crack and separate and eventually start sounding like a bag-o-farts.
