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Yep that looks like it, mustve skimmed over it looking for a PDF instead. Much appreciated.

Hey all, I'm trying to track down the TSB for the Cowl/Windshield popping/clicking noise. After nearly 5 years and 60k miles, I think my 5 finally developed it from the way people here have described it and the the dealer's diagnosis. So far they replaced some clips that supposedly helped, but...

Jackpot. Much appreciated! (thumb)

Yep hooked it back up... hose clamp was still there too to lock it in place. Just curious to verify whether that's the evap purge line that was disconnected.

Long story short, got a remanufactured engine swapped in from Mazda under powertrain warranty. Everything with the replacement has been generally fine, except since day 1 I got a CEL intermitently. Took it back to the dealership and sort of got a runaround w/the light other than them clearing...

All is now sane and there's fresh oil in the 5. I did indeed double up flat washers and used some lock washers as well, but didn't even think to use wing nuts... oh well. I cut a wider hole, basically one diameter length towards the front and center of the splash guard using heavy duty...

thanks for letting me know bulwinkl, sorry though to hear you snapped the plastic. you're right if they got the hole right maybe these things wouldn't happen :) just got back from HD with new bolts... seem to be a match. If I put the undercover back on, I'm definitely going to cut out a...

Got about 46k on the 5 and this afternoon I attempted the first oil change myself. looked easy enough, most PITA looking step was removing the under engine cover, and of course it didn't let me down. I gave up at sundown after FINALLY getting the cover off. basically, the front three bolts...

Stepping out of our 6 year old laptop into a new one. No gaming, most intense use it will get is Hulu and Photoshop. Is the Core 2 Duo worth the extra $160? thanks (Current processor is a Pentium 4 @ 2.53ghz.) Processors Intel Pentium Dual Core T4200 (2.0GHz/800Mhz FSB/1MB cache)...

Yah sorry I should've updated. I had the same experience with the Trico, it only made contact on the lower 1/2 of the blade. Took it into the dealer and got an OEM blade slapped on and voila, worked 100% again. Or like Dyx said, keep the same actual blade with new aftermarket rubber...

I'm an oddball with a 5MT Touring (2007), and it's a hoot to drive. The engine loves to rev and the shift action is slick and smooth. So nice to be able to hold it in a low gear to have all that power instantly when you hit the gas exiting a turn. I've only test driven a 4AT 2006, and played...

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4130497 Direct Replacement - Trico Exact Fit #12A (available @ Advance Auto) ...that is, if you want to avoid the dealer :p

Yeah my mom leases a Camry SE and it's up next year. Checked out the Venza at the local auto show recently and it is a nice car. So much about it is just, 'right'. :)

I've gotten to accept the crunching when it's below freezing outside, but being as my 07 is coming up on 36k soon, might as well take it in to get lubed up for free once more, if nothing else. I actually was going to post asking if they got new bushings to try out, so you answered my question...

While it shouldn't have failed already, alternators are a work horse and prone to fail some time or another. If you have a lemon of a car with a chain of stuff failing like this, then ditch it for a new ride. But that being said, while my wife's 04 Toyota Solara is relatively reliable and well...

cool, thanks guys (2thumbs)

...does anyone ever have a sluggish clutch pedal when it's cold outside? In this latest cold streak, seems especially 20*F and below, for the first few times I hit the clutch, it's slow to spring back. I just have to shift slower for the first mile or two. Seems like it's not getting enough...