best motor oil

I don't use synthetic because I like to go fast or push my car hard. I use it as a preventative measure against sludge, varnish and shearing. You don't have to be an auto enthusiast or a race car driver to use synthetics. You just have to be an informed consumer.
 
I don't use synthetic because I like to go fast or push my car hard. I use it as a preventative measure against sludge, varnish and shearing. You don't have to be an auto enthusiast or a race car driver to use synthetics. You just have to be an informed consumer.

+1 But I don't think EVERYONE has to use synthetic and their a moron if their not. That's why people are coming across as "synthetic or die" IMO. Just my opinion.
 
I'm definitely not 'synthetic or die'. I just encourage people (especially those with turbocharged engines) to use a superior product if they're financially able to do so.

Most people can get a lot of miles out of their cars using the cheapest oil on the shelf, and that's fine for them as long as they couldn't care less about what's lurking under the valve cover or inside the pan after 100K. I've had plenty of first hand experience in what conventional oils can do to certain engines, (some engines aren't affected, but some are substantially affected) which has caused me to want to invest in an ounce of prevention.
 
especially because these cars are turbo you have NO excuse to buy conventional over synthetic. period. even price shouldnt be a concern. its ten dollars more for synthetic over conventional, tops, and keep in mind, your oil circulates through your turbo. ten dollars an oil change or maybe 1000 for a new turbo, you pick.

on a N/A corolla that grandma drives to church and back every weekend, maybe she can get away with conventional at this point, but at this point using conventional oil on a FI car is uninformed or ignorant.
 
I hear all the time why a turbo car must have synthetic oil. Why is that? I understand mineral oil breaks down and synthetic essentially doesn't, but what does that matter if you change the oil every 3000 miles, especially when Mazda doesn't recommend synth. oil for their turbo cars and their oil change intervals are far longer than 3000 miles?

Sure, synthetic is better, but I'm not convinced the guy using mineral based oils and changing every 3000 miles is hurting his car, especially as an easy-driven DD.

Does anyone have oil analysis as proof that using mineral based oil is leading to excessive wear/tear of their engines, or is it simply conjecture?
 
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Uh oh someone's jockin my license plates! lol jk. I use full synthetic usually valvoline 5w-30 but I tried castrol this last time and might stay with it. I also try to use mazda oil filters.
 
Uh oh someone's jockin my license plates! lol jk. I use full synthetic usually valvoline 5w-30 but I tried castrol this last time and might stay with it. I also try to use mazda oil filters.

I've used Mobil 1 synthetic ever since I bought the MSP but I decided to get royal purple this time and will be changing it in the next day or so. I too have used OEM filters on all of my cars just so I can blame them if it fails lol.
 
How is the royal purple filters?

I always stuck with K&N because its much easier to take it off for me :D

I like them. I use to run mobile 1 filters. I used the 02 WRX ones though because they were a little larger than the ones for the MSP. The royal purple ones are the same size for the WRX and MSP. I tried amsoil once but seemed like I was getting blow by on the dyno. I know a couple of people that have said that.
 
Does anyone have oil analysis as proof that using mineral based oil is leading to excessive wear/tear of their engines, or is it simply conjecture?

Where turbos are concerned, the UOA isn't what used as proof that syn is better for that application. It's the teardown of a failed turbo that tells the story. The condition is called 'coking'. When conventional oils are repeatedly subjected to temperatures that are technically out of the range of what they are designed to handle, they begin leaving behind tar-like deposits that eventually block the passages into and out of the bearing races in the turbo. Depending on OCI, driving habits, and the design of the turbo and the engine, it can happen quickly, or over a long period of time. Once the passages reach a certain level of restriction, oil starvation takes hold and the turbo is done for. Synthetic oils won't coke, making them more desirable for use in high heat conditions.

People that drive turbocharged cars who are in the habit of driving hard, or driving long distances at high speeds and then shutting the engine off without a few minutes if idling are begging for trouble using conventional oil. These people should either use a turbo timer or switch to a high quality syn to avoid coking.
 
Where turbos are concerned, the UOA isn't what used as proof that syn is better for that application. It's the teardown of a failed turbo that tells the story. The condition is called 'coking'. When conventional oils are repeatedly subjected to temperatures that are technically out of the range of what they are designed to handle, they begin leaving behind tar-like deposits that eventually block the passages into and out of the bearing races in the turbo. Depending on OCI, driving habits, and the design of the turbo and the engine, it can happen quickly, or over a long period of time. Once the passages reach a certain level of restriction, oil starvation takes hold and the turbo is done for. Synthetic oils won't coke, making them more desirable for use in high heat conditions.

People that drive turbocharged cars who are in the habit of driving hard, or driving long distances at high speeds and then shutting the engine off without a few minutes if idling are begging for trouble using conventional oil. These people should either use a turbo timer or switch to a high quality syn to avoid coking.

What do you make of this, from "Maximum Boost", by Corky Bell? My impression is that the turbo, under normal operation (normal daily use), doesn't get hot enough to coke.

BTW, sludge is another issue. How can I check for sludge buildup? Looking inside the filler cap shows me only timing chain ....
 

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Not sure what's meant by 'distance from exaust housing', but in the case of the MS6, isn't the turbo an integral part of the exaust manifold? That would put it pretty close to the heat, so why would I want to change my oil every 2000 miles to avoid a condtion that synthetic oil could eliminate?

If you suspect you have a sludge issue, removing the valve cover is probably the best way to see how bad it is.
 
I used Mobil 1 full synthetic (10w30) and a K&N filter, changed every 3K, for all the years I owned my MSP.
 
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Not sure what's meant by 'distance from exaust housing', but in the case of the MS6, isn't the turbo an integral part of the exaust manifold? That would put it pretty close to the heat, so why would I want to change my oil every 2000 miles to avoid a condtion that synthetic oil could eliminate?

If you suspect you have a sludge issue, removing the valve cover is probably the best way to see how bad it is.

I wish I knew the answer about the distance from the exhaust housing ....

So, if I look inside the oil cap all I see is timing chain and casting. It is spotlessly clean in there. Too bad it's not so easy to look into the turbo center housing .... I want to believe it is sufficiently cooled to prevent coking, especially since the car isn't driven like it's a race car.
 
I run royal purple 10/30 with a 2.5 v6 filter. i think its made by delco. probably gonna switch to a less expensive oil since a quart of RP is like $7 cdn or somthing. if ic an get the same performance out of a $4-$5 jug ill be happy =)
 
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