2013~2016 CX-5 Weak Brakes - Fully Loaded

[George___42]

Hello Everyone,

I have a 2013 Mazda CX5 I got as Fixer-Upper (It's been a great car, got 6.9L/100km driving between cities)

But, I've noticed I've had to press the brakes decently hard when the car was fully loaded (5 Adults, 1 Suitcase)
This was to stop from 100kmph to zero when traffic went to a stop on the highway.

I do know this car has brakes that go further down than most cars due to how mazda tunes the brakes,

But what about this? Is it the same for you guys, or should I be looking into better Pads and Rotors?
This is my sister's car, so it was the first time I drove in a while, and she drives alone so I never got any complaints before.

But obviously if the brakes are bad, I'm going to swap them ASAP

 

[dan25man]

When's the last time the brake fluid was changed? I'd start there first. Old brake fluid will collect water and over time the water can make the brake system feel spongier than intended. Your sister probably didn't notice as it's a slow change. Honestly most people are really fine tuned to "feel" bad brakes.

Glad you noticed now and not in an emergency. It could also worn pads and rotors. Very easy to visually inspect the pads and or measure the rotor thickness. Not sure what the limits are for the 2013-2016 rotors.

 

[HyFlyer]

Could even be something like frozen caliper slide pins. I've seen that happen and the outside pads don't touch the rotors so only the inside pads are working. That would GREATLY reduce braking power!

Do you live in an area that uses road salt and winter conditions?

I would start with going through the brakes (front and rear) and look for any uneven wear on inside vs outside and left vs right pads and check to see if the caliper slide pins are free and moving and the pads are free and moving inside the bracket clips.

 

[George___42]

When's the last time the brake fluid was changed? I'd start there first. Old brake fluid will collect water and over time the water can make the brake system feel spongier than intended. Your sister probably didn't notice as it's a slow change. Honestly most people are really fine tuned to "feel" bad brakes.

Glad you noticed now and not in an emergency. It could also worn pads and rotors. Very easy to visually inspect the pads and or measure the rotor thickness. Not sure what the limits are for the 2013-2016 rotors.

Thank you for your reply!

I did put new OEM Dot 3 Fluid when we got the car (It was a fixer upper, so all fluids are new, transmission included). That was at 179,000kms, its now at 202,000kms. So probably time to do them tbh.

Measured the rotors using a caliper, and they are currently at 27.5mm, with a discard thickness of 26 and new of 28, looks to be halfway through its life, with only a minor lip forming.

The pads were also changed when I got the car, but stupidly, I was in a rush, and did not use the most high quality pads. They are ceramics, but they are a store brand from the local autovalue ( I know..., but in my defense they used to be rebranded Bosch pads).


The brakes work fine for the most part, but I only really noticed how weak they were compared to the other cars we have (Toyotas) when it was fully loaded. Admittable, my main car has much much bigger brakes, but even my moms rav4 of the same year felt stronger.

I'm starting to suspect its the pads, but it would be a shame to throw the rotors with how much life they have.

 

[George___42]

Could even be something like frozen caliper slide pins. I've seen that happen and the outside pads don't touch the rotors so only the inside pads are working. That would GREATLY reduce braking power!

Do you live in an area that uses road salt and winter conditions?

I would start with going through the brakes (front and rear) and look for any uneven wear on inside vs outside and left vs right pads and check to see if the caliper slide pins are free and moving and the pads are free and moving inside the bracket clips.

Yeah that is a very good point.

This car is in a very cold and high salt place (Calgary), and the last time the pins were greased was when the pads were replaced at 179,000kms. (202,000kms now). Plus its the only car we have that sits outside.

I have to change tires to summers so its a easy thing to check.
Thank you!

 

[dan25man]

I mean when your replaced the pads did you bed them in per mfg instructions? I know sometimes freshly un-bedded pads can be a little stiff. I've also noticed my ceramic pads in my Subaru can be a little lacking in initial bite. But my forester is also known for poor brake feel and if i press harder the car does stop harder. It may also just be the physics of having all that extra mass in the vehicle. What 4 people plus their luggage ~1000-1200 lbs. in a 3500 lbs car is like a 25-30% mass increase. So expect a 25-30% stopping distance all things considered.

 

[N7turbo]

What 4 people plus their luggage ~1000-1200 lbs. in a 3500 lbs car is like a 25-30% mass increase. So expect a 25-30% stopping distance all things considered.

The average adult is like 160 lbs, and you don't count the driver as "additional", so 500-600 lbs is much more realistic for an average.

 

[Lazy2.5]

I suppose it goes without saying, but if you are not confident in your brakes as is (they are soft and not known for strong stopping power or fade resistance) you should consider your current average following distances, especially at higher speeds and determine whether it is worth following the car in front at a greater distance. most of the time, that's even more helpful than having a stiffer brake pedal and stronger bite/stopping power.

 

[gtbigup]

The brakes on my 24 Signature sucks as well. I've thrown money at it including slotted rotors and ceramic semi metallic pads. No change. One more thing I'm willing to change is to get some steel brake lines. It may just be the characteristics of this setup, because if the forward collision activates, it stops just fine. Oh yeah, one more fix. Maybe I need to adjust my driving habits lol.
On a serious note I'm used to a vehicle with more initial bite and the CX5 just doesnt have it. My wife's 22 Armada initial bite and overall brake performance is what I'm looking for in my CX-5. I dont think I'll get it, but am willing to throw about $300 more at it.

 

[N7turbo]

I've posted in another thread that installing a brake booster from a CX-50 might give some people what they want.

 

[gtbigup]

I've posted in another thread that installing a brake booster from a CX-50 might give some people what they want.

Ok I might have to investigate that.

 

[Lazy2.5]

driving habits is most effective. follow far behind, coast, engine brake.. hardly need to use your brakes other than to scrub speed for corners or once you are almost at the red light.

let alone emergency stop.

but i would still like a firmer pedal..

 

[N7turbo]

Ok I might have to investigate that.

I only say that because I have driven those cars and know what the brakes feel like. It is much more firm. I personally don't like it. I would like the perfect middle ground, which would be the ND3 Miata. If Mazda could get that brake feel on all of their vehicles, it would be a winner.