Zack Mac's P5

ordered a vibrant vacuum block, going to install it on the brake booster line and run a few things off of it... wastegate, bov, boost gauge, and ssafc. dealing with 2 CELS, p2006 and p0421. for the 0421 i think it will change once i install the wideband sensor, so i'll deal with that later once its installed. for the p2006, i will try toe vics/vtcs sensors first to see if that fixes it, but i think the problem is with the wastegate actuator and the open/close flap on the exhaust housing. since i had to replace the chra, it is slightly off from stock alignment. i think that this is causing the tab to sit in the middle in resting position, and it will open but can not close all the way. maybe it is the other way around, have to check. everything else is running good so far though. i dont think im at my full boost level yet, due to the wastegate problem, but i can definitely notice some more pep. cant wait to get the vac block and install all my gauges
 
new rotors, calipers and pads all around and installed vibrant vacuum block in the brake booster line

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I don't want to speculate because I've only ran through one full tank so far, but here's what I've found so far...

Switched from 87 to 93 Octane... (still haven't installed SSAFC or Wideband, thinking this may make a difference)

Typically, I would get ~300 miles from full tank to gas light coming on with a N/A p5. So far, and like I said this is only on ONE tank of 100% 93 Octane, I got nearly 350 miles from full tank to gas light.

I thought my gas mileage would be significantly lower due to having forced induction. I guess only time will tell. just thought i would share :)
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haven't installed my gauges yet so i can't "officially" tell, but i have a pretty good idea of how to stay out of boost

Do you hear turkeys? Lol

In any case, I love what you did with cutting out the crashbar, very clean. If it were my car, I would create a funnel effect between the front bumper and the IC so all ram air is forced to go through the IC. This is more important for you as you now have free space in front of it.
 
Do you hear turkeys? Lol

In any case, I love what you did with cutting out the crashbar, very clean. If it were my car, I would create a funnel effect between the front bumper and the IC so all ram air is forced to go through the IC. This is more important for you as you now have free space in front of it.

no, i don't have turkeys, only on thanksgiving :p

that is not a bad idea either. come spring time i will be working on this a lot more and getting it to my ideal condition. it's just too cold now since i don't have a garage.

i want to either sell or trade my rims and get ms3 or ms6 ones. i really like how they look, and i might get them powder coated white. hopefully local craigslist comes through
 
leaking oil from the first spark plug area and the exhaust manifold
i think i need to replace the head gasket
anything else worth building in the head while im at it?
 
Get some JDM or corksport cams? Haha

that would be fun lol but i dont want to start on internals until something blows up, then a complete and proper rebuild may happen if i decide its worth keeping the car. but luckily havent had any major problems lately




Took the P5 to Florida and back, about 2500 miles round trip. Averaged roughly 26 mpg, made good time too about 22 hours each way.

I'm about to give her some lovin, replace the valve cover gasket and paint the valve cover. going to get cooler spark (copper) plugs too since im running platinums, maybe a little preventative maintenance

the weather is getting nicer very slowly so soon i hope to finally get around to adjusting the wastegate actuator and installing my boost and oil pressure gauges, ssafc v2 and aem wideband

ive been trying to find ms3 rims locally but no luck. I need new shoes, I like the red/gold look
 
if you're planning on taking the head off, you should definitely do the vtcs delete w/a port and polish if you havent already. Or you could do the JDMSam porting method since you're boosted
 
if you're planning on taking the head off, you should definitely do the vtcs delete w/a port and polish if you havent already. Or you could do the JDMSam porting method since you're boosted

I always thought the vtcs had to do with the intake manifold? Isn't it the little butterfly flaps which are essentially just removed to allow for unrestricted air flow at all rpms, not just above 5200 i think it was?

I haven't heard anything about the JDMSam porting method ever before so I'll look that up later tonight and see what it's all about, thanks! Either way, though, I am only taking off the valve cover at this point, nothing major.
 
I always thought the vtcs had to do with the intake manifold? Isn't it the little butterfly flaps which are essentially just removed to allow for unrestricted air flow at all rpms, not just above 5200 i think it was?

I haven't heard anything about the JDMSam porting method ever before so I'll look that up later tonight and see what it's all about, thanks! Either way, though, I am only taking off the valve cover at this point, nothing major.

VTCS involves cold start emission reduction while the engine is cold.

VICS is the butterfly valves that open at higher rpm that you are thinking of. VTCS removal does nothing but good from what ive read.

Also removing VICS and porting the JDM Sam way i believe is when you combine both sets of intake runners.
 
Little update... will have a follow up post in a few days once everything is how I want it to be

Valve cover gasket was leaking oil everywhere, so replaced that. My buddy Alex (apowell0224) on the forums did a sweet job wrinkle painting my valve cover gasket and it looks great. Starting to tidy up my engine bay.

Installed SSAFC w/ superstock tune until I have time to tune it, mechanical ultra lite boost gauge, and electrical ultra lite oil pressure gauge. I will have plenty of diagrams and pictures to come along with this soon!

Still need to adjust my wastegate flapper, because I am not building up any boost. I think the rod is too long, which is why it won't build any pressure. Vac is fine, roughly 22 hga at idle. My afr readings are 15ish when idling and 14-15.5 while cruising.

Also waiting on an extension harness from mazda so I can run my 2nd O2 sensor behind the cat on my sls midpipe, length wasn't long enough so I just have it unclipped from the harness for now.

Stay tuned for more news and photos very soon!
 
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