Wtf Is Wrong

MsP_DeViL

Member
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03 Sunlight Silver MSP
Hey guys, I am having some bad fuking luck! Thank God for Street Unit helping me out on this giving me a lot of good advice, but I want to hear if some one knows a answer to this seemingly impossible question! My MSP is falling on its face bad! When I get to mid RPM range about 3-5k its stumbling bad, it started off mild , just doing it once in a while and has got worse, I got a new exhaust (vibrant ) and MBC (turbo XS single stage ) I also have the MAM FMIC with a Boost Science BPV , SU said it may be the fact that I am running the combo I am with the FMIC , MBC , exhaust , the waste gate may not be working with the mbc or something and I could also be hitting fule cut off , I have already checked all connections to hoses and lines and all that ... I am lost at this point , I am about to do the MAF relo mod and change to a BOV SSQV , but I want to know what this problem is so I dont waste money, (anymore than I have) At this point I am about to start over , I was thinking about buying a new 2.0 and starting a build up and just getting rid of this set up all together , but if I am going to spend upwards of 5k I want to get something more than what I think these cars have to offer ! So anyone who can help me out of my mess, I love you!!!
 
Yes..Answer his question...And in the mean time....Quit changing stuff out until you trace down the problem...you are only making it harder by continuing to mod things while there is still a problem present.(boom07)
 
Is it able to build boost? I had a problem with the actuator on my car, at times full boost and others only 1-2psi. Is that what your car is doing, or is the turbo loud and no boost? If it's the later you have a leak if the first one it could be the actuator. Just a few more thoughts.
 
If I am understanding the problem correctly, I have the same issue. Try taking off the wastegate actuator hose at the tee end where it splits to the bpv and to the intake manifold. Blow into the hose that goes to the wastegate. If you are able to keep blowing through, there is a hole or crack in the actuator causing the massive fuel cut.
 
More info is needed here.

1. Do you have a boost gauge, and if so, what is it hitting?
2. Is this above what you have your MBC set at ?
3. If said boost gauge is present, whats it read at Idle ? It should be between 17-21 in grams
4. Is there any funny noises coming from the engine ?(IE Knocking, grinding ect ect)

My first suggestion would be to remove the MBC and see if the problem persists.
 
Ok Sorry about not posting latly I have had some problems with my internet , I have solved the problem for now, all I had to do was remove the MBC but now the car feels like a slow MSP ! I dont want slow !
 
505zoom said:
Is it a complete power loss?... or is it just feeling sluggish in the mid range?
Power loss all the way man , its like someone is just dumping water in the intake , it almost feels like when you clean a carb and the car wants to stall... falls on its face and all that ... and it just from MBC?
 
ForceFed said:
Yes..Answer his question...And in the mean time....Quit changing stuff out until you trace down the problem...you are only making it harder by continuing to mod things while there is still a problem present.(boom07)
Thanks for the advise but I kinda did all this at once .. and found out after word there was a problem !
 
orng1 said:
Is it able to build boost? I had a problem with the actuator on my car, at times full boost and others only 1-2psi. Is that what your car is doing, or is the turbo loud and no boost? If it's the later you have a leak if the first one it could be the actuator. Just a few more thoughts.
Building it great !! once I hit 10 psi at 3 - 5k rpm range it hits brick wall
 
GreySpeed said:
If I am understanding the problem correctly, I have the same issue. Try taking off the wastegate actuator hose at the tee end where it splits to the bpv and to the intake manifold. Blow into the hose that goes to the wastegate. If you are able to keep blowing through, there is a hole or crack in the actuator causing the massive fuel cut.
Than what ... going to try that now!!!
 
boostisgood said:
More info is needed here.

1. Do you have a boost gauge, and if so, what is it hitting?
2. Is this above what you have your MBC set at ?
3. If said boost gauge is present, whats it read at Idle ? It should be between 17-21 in grams
4. Is there any funny noises coming from the engine ?(IE Knocking, grinding ect ect)

My first suggestion would be to remove the MBC and see if the problem persists.
I listioned to your suggestion and it stoped thanks for the advise
 
Have you reset your ECU? Unplug your battery for 15 minutes. If you deceide to relocate your MAF you don't need the BOV I believe so. But yea unplug the battery.. and then restart and see what happens
 
usually the best way to reset the ECU is to unplug the negative, get in the car and hit the brake. hitting the brake makes the brake light come on and kills the extra power saved up in the system for the ECU to keeps it`s memory. at least that`s what I`ve read.
Sorry for a threadjack heer, but my car has been running rich just all of a sudden for no appearant reason, I haven`t changed anything. Any thoughts? I think it may have something to do with the plugs I bought though...

Notorious_V.I.C said:
Have you reset your ECU? Unplug your battery for 15 minutes. If you deceide to relocate your MAF you don't need the BOV I believe so. But yea unplug the battery.. and then restart and see what happens
 
Reset the ECU. Do you have a boost gauge ? If you dont, dont use a boost controller, you have no clue what PSI your hitting and will kill the bottom end.
 
So sorry for the thread jack what's the right way to reset your ECU? Unplug the hot side for a while or negative and press on the brakes??
 
just disconnect BOTH AND hit the brake. why not? you only live once!

Notorious_V.I.C said:
So sorry for the thread jack what's the right way to reset your ECU? Unplug the hot side for a while or negative and press on the brakes??
 
MsP_DeViL said:
Building it great !! once I hit 10 psi at 3 - 5k rpm range it hits brick wall

I would say fuel cut. Are your running a FCD? If not it is has been really cold in the midwest lately and at 10 PSI of boost would make that a definite possability. The fact that it went away when you ran stock boost also supports that and points away from a waste gate actuator issue. If it was an issue with the actuator, you would keep building boost until fuel cut and it would occur at boost levels you had not seen prior to the issue starting.
 
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Yeah, that`s fuel cut. Don`t go with a FCD though, get at least an AFC. If you can afford it, get a Unichip. If not, something like a Split Second PSC1-020 is affordable (and made FOR the MAZDASPEED Protege).

Quote:
Originally Posted by MsP_DeViL
Building it great !! once I hit 10 psi at 3 - 5k rpm range it hits brick wall

jlindbo said:
I would say fuel cut. Are your running a FCD? If not it is has been really cold in the midwest lately and at 10 PSI of boost would make that a definite possability. The fact that it went away when you ran stock boost also supports that and points away from a waste gate actuator issue. If it was an issue with the actuator, you would keep building boost until fuel cut and it would occur at boost levels you had not seen prior to the issue starting.
 
boostisgood said:
Reset the ECU. Do you have a boost gauge ? If you dont, dont use a boost controller, you have no clue what PSI your hitting and will kill the bottom end.
Yea I have a boost gauge lol and I said I was at 10 psi when I was having the problem , I have already done the reset and I did by using the brake trick !
 

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