Which Oil Filter????

What everyone worries about in turbo engines is the heat and the coking of the oil due to this heat. I do not have experience with that yet and do have concerns, but I will say that from experience the all HC based oils will coke. We have to remember that Group 3 oils also came out of the ground but they get defined as synthetic due to the processing they receive. Supposely the Group 2 oils are suppose to still contain minute amounts of heavier molecules which will coke or oxidize easier which the Group 3 oil shouldn't contain. But then look at the trucking industry and their use of Group 2 oils in all the turbocharged diesels most of which run on Rotella or Delo 400.
 
Wrong answer. FRAM filters have cardboard internals; occasionally, the cardboard gets sucked into your engine. Yeah, bad.

Mobil1 is only a medium grade synthetic group III. Pennzoil Platinum is a true synthetic group IV. Chevron dino oil is great. Even non-synthetic oil should be run for more than 3k miles in the P5. Less is just a waste of time and money.

So not all oils and filters are created equal.



Wrong my friend.
The past 8 years I've owned 3 cars, 2 of them are (were) Mazdas. Always used Castrol mineral oil and FRAM filters. No problems at ALL. Combined miles total: more than 150 000 miles. Always change everything at 3000 miles.

Conclusion: Is there a conclusion? I'm right!
 
Wrong my friend.
The past 8 years I've owned 3 cars, 2 of them are (were) Mazdas. Always used Castrol mineral oil and FRAM filters. No problems at ALL. Combined miles total: more than 150 000 miles. Always change everything at 3000 miles.

Conclusion: Is there a conclusion? I'm right!

Fram is the only brand oil filter the walmart next to my house sells, So they have my business.
 
What everyone worries about in turbo engines is the heat and the coking of the oil due to this heat. I do not have experience with that yet and do have concerns, but I will say that from experience the all HC based oils will coke. We have to remember that Group 3 oils also came out of the ground but they get defined as synthetic due to the processing they receive. Supposely the Group 2 oils are suppose to still contain minute amounts of heavier molecules which will coke or oxidize easier which the Group 3 oil shouldn't contain. But then look at the trucking industry and their use of Group 2 oils in all the turbocharged diesels most of which run on Rotella or Delo 400.

Well, diesel aren't nearly a stressed as, say, a MS3 or STi, right? So are you going to stick with the dino, or search for a synthetic with the properties you desire?

Wrong my friend.
The past 8 years I've owned 3 cars, 2 of them are (were) Mazdas. Always used Castrol mineral oil and FRAM filters. No problems at ALL. Combined miles total: more than 150 000 miles. Always change everything at 3000 miles.

Conclusion: Is there a conclusion? I'm right!

Wow, you ran 3 cars all the way out to 50k on Castrol with no issues? You don't say!

;) Dude, the anti-drainback valve in Fram's is cardboard, and they don't filter as well as other, just as readily available filters. Will your engine suck the cardboard in? Not likely, it's rare (but it happens). Will your car wear out prematurely from using Castrol instead of Chevron? Possibly not. But add an inferior filter which may attack your motor to 'OK' oil, and it leads to an important question: why buy the FRAM and Castrol, when right next to those on the shelf are Purolator filters and Chevron or Havoline oils at the same or lower cost, which WILL do a better job?

Your money, your car. You might enjoy this:

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Wait.... so mobil one was (is??) by far the best of those listed in the chart??

I don't have a problem with changing my oil every 5000 miles as recomended.
I'm 19, don't have a job, go to college, and love my car and want it (need it) to last for several years, at the very least. Furthermore, I do not 'beat' on my car.

I want good oil but I can't afford the 'best' high priced stuff. I've only changed my oil once, and I used Castrol high mileage oil (which I picked up at walmart with the fram filter).

What oil/oil filter should I use to get the longest life out of my car?

Because after reading this thread, I'm simply confused. I originally though you could use ANY oil as long as you changed it frequently. However I have no idea what this 'wear' stuff you guys are talking about with metals and what not is.

I want to treat my baby right but I don't know how (sad2)
 
I use name brand dino oil in my P5, brand depends on what is on sale. I have owned the car from new, it now has 70k miles. I have been doing the same on other cars I have owned for the past 40 years. Never had an engine failure and most of my cars have never needed oil between changes. I change oil at 5k miles or every 6 months. In my opinion and experience it is safe to use any brand name oil. I would use some filter other than a Fram.

Clifton
 
Yeah, Mobil 1 is the worst on here. Don't worry about finding the perfect oil if your car is just a daily driver. Just go with any filter that's not made by Fram, and a "high mileage" or synthetic oil that's not made by Mobil 1. Change it every 5,000 miles and your engine won't give you any problems (at least not from oil-related issues).

We could sit here all day and debate the best combo, but in the end, it largely just comes down to personal preference. I use the WalMart brand full sythetic oil, because it's only $17.00/5 qts, and I've read several articles saying that it's good quality. No doubt someone on here would like to chastise me on using an oil made by Wal-Mart, but frankly, I don't care - I've always had good luck with it, and paired with an OEM Mazda oil filter, I feel that I'm taking real good care of my baby. :)
 
Yeah, Mobil 1 is the worst on here. Don't worry about finding the perfect oil if your car is just a daily driver. Just go with any filter that's not made by Fram, and a "high mileage" or synthetic oil that's not made by Mobil 1. Change it every 5,000 miles and your engine won't give you any problems (at least not from oil-related issues).

We could sit here all day and debate the best combo, but in the end, it largely just comes down to personal preference. I use the WalMart brand full sythetic oil, because it's only $17.00/5 qts, and I've read several articles saying that it's good quality. No doubt someone on here would like to chastise me on using an oil made by Wal-Mart, but frankly, I don't care - I've always had good luck with it, and paired with an OEM Mazda oil filter, I feel that I'm taking real good care of my baby. :)

What is the 'best oil' for the price? All this stuff about metal wear and things... Is synthetic oil better for your engine? Would it be worth it to get cheap synthetic oil over dyno oil?
 
But he said halvoline was better than castrol? Which is not evident on that chart thing. (or was he previously referring to dino castrol?)

Yeah he was referring to dino castrol, the one on the chart is synthetic.
Actually, the halvoline is the only dino oil on the list but still performs better then the mobile 1!
 
Look at the chart again. The castrol syntec 0-30w is the german stuff that is a true synthetic where other syntec is not. That stuff is good but hard to find on regular basis. I ran for awhile but couldn't find it regularly enough without time wasting hunting all over. Based on the wear chart, I'm just gonna go with the penzoil platinum since it's everywhere, reasonably priced & is what I'm already running in the Rav4 & will be puttin in the Tacoma as well.
BTW, anybody know who makes penzoil filters & if they're worth a crap?
 
I'm going to get penzoil platinum for my next oil change.

How often should I change the oil when using this?
 
Just go with manufacturer reccomendations, 7500 right? I forget what the manual says. Either 5k or 7.5k.
 
Just go with manufacturer reccomendations, 7500 right? I forget what the manual says. Either 5k or 7.5k. If you want to know hard facts about your oil performance, you'll have to send a sample to blackstone labs.
 
Even with the synthetic?

It isn't 'bad' to change your oil 'too early' ?
I thought you weren't supposed to change synthetics as often.
 
Its not harmful to the car, of course, but its a waste of money if you only use 70% of the cars potential, and its highly polluting to the environment. Waste of your time, too, crawling around under your car for no good reason.
 
Its not harmful to the car, of course, but its a waste of money if you only use 70% of the oils potential, and its highly polluting to the environment. Waste of your time, too, crawling around under your car for no good reason.
 
Going back a couple of posts, my issue with Fram filters is that in a comparison of filter media and construction, they really are inferior to pretty much all other filters. However, in most cases, they're the cheapest, so I can see the advantage there, plus you probably won't have a problem.

But a purolater PureOne has significantly better construction and much more filter media, and it costs the same price, or very close to the price of the Fram. It's not like the Mobil1 or Wix filters that cost twice what a Fram does. Why not spend the extra dollar and go from worst to best? That's why I only use PureOne filters.
 
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