what kind of gas mileage does your p5 get?
- Thread starter kms1990
- Start date
kamesama980
Member
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- 2002 Protege5
Just clearing a code won't change anything except losing the fuel trims along with the codes. It'll be back as soon as the ECM runs the readyness test again. "per tank" isn't really meaningful unless you put the exact same amount of gas in each time.
"Sport shift" auto, bone stock, oversize tires (205/55R16)
Driving with traffic and AC, I get about what it's rated at (25 in town, 30ish on the hwy). In gridlock or the right conditions I can get 30-32 in town working at it with the manual mode auto. On the highway cruise gets 28-30, I get 30-32 (70-75 mph. mpg varies with wind, load, and AC).
I've seen a thread or 2 of others complaining about cruise too. Hysteresis is wider than any car I've driven and it kicks down way too soon. Like the others though, it's reactive so it waits to bog down on any incline before dropping a gear and mashing the gas (which the wide hysteresis exacerbates.
"Sport shift" auto, bone stock, oversize tires (205/55R16)
Driving with traffic and AC, I get about what it's rated at (25 in town, 30ish on the hwy). In gridlock or the right conditions I can get 30-32 in town working at it with the manual mode auto. On the highway cruise gets 28-30, I get 30-32 (70-75 mph. mpg varies with wind, load, and AC).
I've seen a thread or 2 of others complaining about cruise too. Hysteresis is wider than any car I've driven and it kicks down way too soon. Like the others though, it's reactive so it waits to bog down on any incline before dropping a gear and mashing the gas (which the wide hysteresis exacerbates.
For those trying to get more MPG:
Try leaving the car in gear as much and as long as possible. (5-speed tranny anyways). When coasting in gear with no throttle, the fuel injectors cut off completely (the fuel cut system kicks in). There is no fuel being used at all until you hit the clutch, gas, put it in neutral or the RPM's drop to about 1,200. If the clutch is in or it's in neutral, the engine is supplied fuel to maintain idle and prevent stalling.
esnave09,... I've read a lot of threads on different spark plugs and I'm personally convinced that just plain copper plugs give the most reliable spark. It's true that they don't last as long because the electrodes erode away much quicker and need periodic gapping (like every year or 10,000 miles) but at a dollar apiece and 15 minutes labor, I don't mind replacing them every couple of years.
One thing that just about everyone agrees on is to stick with NGK regardless of it being platinum, iridium or whatever. Bosch might work well in a VW but they apparently aren't the best for our engines.
Try leaving the car in gear as much and as long as possible. (5-speed tranny anyways). When coasting in gear with no throttle, the fuel injectors cut off completely (the fuel cut system kicks in). There is no fuel being used at all until you hit the clutch, gas, put it in neutral or the RPM's drop to about 1,200. If the clutch is in or it's in neutral, the engine is supplied fuel to maintain idle and prevent stalling.
esnave09,... I've read a lot of threads on different spark plugs and I'm personally convinced that just plain copper plugs give the most reliable spark. It's true that they don't last as long because the electrodes erode away much quicker and need periodic gapping (like every year or 10,000 miles) but at a dollar apiece and 15 minutes labor, I don't mind replacing them every couple of years.
One thing that just about everyone agrees on is to stick with NGK regardless of it being platinum, iridium or whatever. Bosch might work well in a VW but they apparently aren't the best for our engines.
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Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
Using only gps for distance logging...over the past 300 miles of driving i averaged 33.7 mpg...if i go by the vehicle speed sensor/odometer...that number would be about 32.xx mpg...so i'm probably somewhere in between that...gps can get iffy on elevation changes, but i know my odometer isn't exactly accurate because of 205/45 17" tires...thats with an mp3 ecu, 5 speed manual p5, and a daily drive to work that is 28 miles one way, 90% of which is 55mph curvy highway with a few big hills...i'm happy with that, as i'm not remotely driving as easy as possible, but also not hammering on it...
also, i'm currently using ZFR5F-11's iirc...which are the extended reach variants of the factory plugs (the extended reach are OE in Japan, though i think)...if i mixed up which is extended and which is not, apologies...this does match up better with premium gas, however...
also, i'm currently using ZFR5F-11's iirc...which are the extended reach variants of the factory plugs (the extended reach are OE in Japan, though i think)...if i mixed up which is extended and which is not, apologies...this does match up better with premium gas, however...
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It sounds like you need to do the non-fouler trick. Your mileage will suffer until you get it done. (your car will be stuck in "limp mode" until it's done,... the ECU dumps way more fuel into the engine, retards timing and is completely gutless)
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ure-Cel-Mil-from-removing-cat-with-Non-Fouler
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...fouler-trick-to-fix-P0421-for-noobs-by-a-noob
