What have you done to your P5 today?

Hey, there's an idea.......maybe if the bumper and lip were painted yet I'd feel more inclined to actually do it...........
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
Hey, there's an idea.......maybe if the bumper and lip were painted yet I'd feel more inclined to actually do it...........
Click to expand...
Pollen had been awful so I've been washing everything

51bd69bc9ec373929ce253eee04ad203.jpg


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Washed and waxed her and swapped the winter steelies for the summer alloys.

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Well guys......four months and I'm still not boosted. Only took a week to get everything on in January, but its taken me this long to locate vacuum leaks and have the car driving. Finally thought I had her up and running last week but still....always an issue. After a week of driving I was wondering why the car just still feels slow. Finally installed a boost gauge and as it turns out.....no boost. I have perfect vacuum but no boost. Needed an intercooler hot pipe but I patched it up with some bondo then taped it. Still not getting anything over 0 on the gauge. Blew into the gauge and it reads positive so its not that. Finally checked the compressor wheel....that was fine too. Soooooo I've narrowed it down to a waste gate flap that MUST be stuck open. Its the ONLY thing in this world I think that can be causing this. Nothing but headaches, but tomorrow I start taking everything off again to get to the turbo and see if thats the problem. Honestly debating on selling after I get everything set up. I'm so disheartened........ I don't know what I'll do if the flap is not the issue.

Sorry for the wall of text.
 
you used the correct wga ? was it a stock msp one or did you buy a new one? the only thing i can think of is the rod on your wga is too long and keeps the valve open at all times. maybe you need to shim the actuator so that the rod keeps the valve in the closed position at rest. alternately you could have a big ass leak, but you would still see SOME boost on your gauge. unless you have a fat hole in your intercooler. your turbo spins freely id guess?
it is also possible you lost the little clip from the wga and its just stuck open. that thing is a b**** to work on with the turbo installed ha.
 
Valk said:
you used the correct wga ? was it a stock msp one or did you buy a new one? the only thing i can think of is the rod on your wga is too long and keeps the valve open at all times. maybe you need to shim the actuator so that the rod keeps the valve in the closed position at rest. alternately you could have a big ass leak, but you would still see SOME boost on your gauge. unless you have a fat hole in your intercooler. your turbo spins freely id guess?
it is also possible you lost the little clip from the wga and its just stuck open. that thing is a b**** to work on with the turbo installed ha.
Click to expand...

Yeah I used the stock waste gate. I did notice that the rod had threads on it to make the rod longer or shorter. so you're right, that could be the issue. But I can't reach it with the turbo installed anyway so still going to take everything off and check that plus the waste gate flap. Would it be worth it to install an aftermarket waste gate while I've got everything off?
 
get an atp turbo one. they make an 8 psi drop in replacement. if the rod is too long, just shim the wga out to keep the gate closed tightly at rest.
 
Killed a hawk with my passenger side mirror when it decided to play chicken with the P5, hawk lost. The impact snapped the screws holding the mirror onto the base bolted to the door, motor still worked fine though! Took almost 2 weeks for my replacement mirror to arrive, went ahead and gave the driver side cover a fresh coat of paint and clear coat. The replacement plastic cover for the mirror came black but the original one was molded white plastic. I also finally got around to replacing the lower grille that had a hole in it with a new one.









 
Not today but Saturday I had an alignment done. Here are the notes from the tech:

Both outer tie rod boots are tearing but there is no play. Jam nuts are starting to round off due to rust. Left front inner tie rod was seized to outer tie rod. Heated tie rods up in order to adjust, was able to move and put in spec.

I've owned the car since 2006 with ~64K miles and AFAIK the tie rods are original. Not sure that I want to tackle this myself given the rust so time to price parts and labor and then go from there. Our daughter is the primary driver of the car now so I'd like to get it taken care of sooner rather than later. Anyone have brands they recommend or to stay away from? OEM inner tie rods are $65.70, inner tie rod boots are $27.27 and outer tie rods are $54.41. I'll check RockAuto next and even Autozone. I used their LCA and have had no issues with them.
 
CTt3P5 said:
Not today but Saturday I had an alignment done. Here are the notes from the tech:

Both outer tie rod boots are tearing but there is no play. Jam nuts are starting to round off due to rust. Left front inner tie rod was seized to outer tie rod. Heated tie rods up in order to adjust, was able to move and put in spec.

I've owned the car since 2006 with ~64K miles and AFAIK the tie rods are original. Not sure that I want to tackle this myself given the rust so time to price parts and labor and then go from there. Our daughter is the primary driver of the car now so I'd like to get it taken care of sooner rather than later. Anyone have brands they recommend or to stay away from? OEM inner tie rods are $65.70, inner tie rod boots are $27.27 and outer tie rods are $54.41. I'll check RockAuto next and even Autozone. I used their LCA and have had no issues with them.
Click to expand...

For OEM spec aftermarket suspension parts I like MOOG brand very much. Have always had good success with them and they're much cheaper than actual Mazda parts. Rockauto and Amazon have the best prices usually
 
I second Taco Cat on Moog. I've done all of my inner and outer tie rods and my LCAs with Moog. It's been 1-2 years for each part with no problem.


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