What have you done to your P5 today?
- Thread starter Tg5
- Start date
Just sharing my experience with gauge cluster LED bulbs that light up evenly!
mazdas247.com
Cluster LED lights swap
Replaced all cluster lights to LED and did a mess, tach does not work, temp gauge all the way up when started have not driven it to see if the odometer works. Any guess on what happened, need a specific type of bulb? Any info would be appreciated.
BenjiHoggi
OEM+
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- Oregon, USA
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- 22v Protege5
Okay yes I do remember this. Just never got around to trying the bulbs from that site. But if Blue Pro5 goes that direction I will probably do the same.Just sharing my experience with gauge cluster LED bulbs that light up evenly!
Cluster LED lights swap
Replaced all cluster lights to LED and did a mess, tach does not work, temp gauge all the way up when started have not driven it to see if the odometer works. Any guess on what happened, need a specific type of bulb? Any info would be appreciated.
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
You won't regret it. They are an elegant but subtle touch to the gauge cluster.
Wow! This is why it never hurts to ask.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Had to pull sight tube off weapon r aluminum overflow jug and plug holes with bolts. the tube failed and was leaking. luckily i found this out in garage running the car for first time in a month or more. just staring under the hood after lettin it wake up the neighborhood with some revving. beat the hek outta finding it out driving and it making huge mess and overheating the thing. will just have to unscrew the cap to check the level that way......oh, the hassle, lol......callin today a big win to catch that at home.
ugly long 1"x3/8x24 pitch bolts until i can order a coupla 1/2"x 3/8x24 allen heads
or were they 30mm m10x1.00.....dangit, lol...
ugly long 1"x3/8x24 pitch bolts until i can order a coupla 1/2"x 3/8x24 allen heads
or were they 30mm m10x1.00.....dangit, lol...
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
I think I finally fixed this, but of course only out of absolute necessity since I've been putting it off. It finally got bad enough that I was completely stranded, and or course in the absolute middle of nowhere, while alone (see picture).
With the battery disconnected, I was pulling out and tapping (rather aggressively) the main ignition relay and it wasn't doing anything. The relay is easy to open so I even opened it up, plugged it back in, reconnected battery, and pressed the contacts together myself and still no luck, so I was at that point pretty sure it was not the main relay.
Eventually decided to push the car to a hill and then bump start it down, which avoided a stupid expensive tow bill. But after that it would not start at all. Same symptoms I originally described.
Got it back home and started debugging. Eventually realized one of the bolts holding the ground wire to the terminal connector (which I replaced with a cheap aftermarket one like 3 years back) was missing it's nut and the ground wire was corroded. Cleaned that up, replaced the nut, loctited all other terminal bolts and it starts great now!
Several of you guys suggested battery terminals so kudos to you all. Should have checked more closely...lesson learned. Just happy to have it fixed.
Attachments
Coat those terminals with grease or antirust spray or whatever.
Keep water and air off of them.
And any other contact terminals you can find as well.
Seal them up good,..
All electrical connections that you come across,..
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Sooooo, i guess this doesn't count as remote start?.....since it didn't start until at home?.......sorry, master of bad jokes. Glad you got it sorted out.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
My gauge leds are from superbrightleds dot com. Have had great results on all of them from there.
Blue Pro5
Member
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- Mazda Protege5
Glad you found that at home too. Definitely a win in my book.
katapaltes
'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
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- Dallas, TX
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- 2003 Protege5
Since I recently replaced the rear struts with Mazda OEM (~$80 apiece, made by Tokico), I tried to order Mazda OEMs for the front (~$120 apiece), but no dice. Mazda no longer offers OEM front struts for our cars.
Parts used to rebuild front strut assemblies today:
Bought Chinese-made Sachs (~$60 apiece) from Rock Auto instead.
Reused the original springs, dust boots and upper metal "spring sheets."
Bought OEM bump stops and upper and lower rubber spring seats.
Bought Monroe strut mounts (included bearings).
I only did one side today. After removing the KYB strut, I compressed the piston on it and the rebound rate was almost non-existent. That strut was six years old and had only 10k miles or less on it. This lack of rebound may explain why the front end didn't always keep its footing when going through dips in intersections at quite reasonable speeds. The ride is quieter now, but the passenger side is still making so much noise that it's hard to tell.
I'll replace that strut soon.At this point, I've replaced nearly the entire suspension, front and back.
The upper spring seat was in pretty rough shape. The lower one looked pretty good, but I wanted to replace it anyway.
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210k and running lots of oil (which p5 isn't right?!)
Check engine light went on and is throwing a P0507 code .
Idel Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected DTC Severity 2 of 3.
According to my research it could be any of the following (in order of likelihood):
Clean Throttle body
Replaced idle air control valve
Reprogrammed powertrain control
Adjust engine idle
replaced throttle body?
Check engine light went on and is throwing a P0507 code .
Idel Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected DTC Severity 2 of 3.
According to my research it could be any of the following (in order of likelihood):
Clean Throttle body
Replaced idle air control valve
Reprogrammed powertrain control
Adjust engine idle
replaced throttle body?
katapaltes
'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
- :
- Dallas, TX
- :
- 2003 Protege5
I replaced the remaining, passenger front strut and there was some carnage on that side. I couldn't get the upper rubber spring seat off the coil spring without my mini sledge. The original factory bearing had separated on this side, whereas it was "only" oozing on the driver's side. The KYB bump stop was split in half on this side and intact on the driver's side. I must make some crazy left turns... 
The ride is now a little quieter and feels more competent, but I've still got some clunks and clicks. At this point, I've replaced all suspension wear parts in the rear except for the pair of forward lateral arms. As far as potential noise-makers in the front, I still need to replace the outer tie rod ends and the axles as they are both torn/lightly clicking, respectively, as well as those damn near inaccessible stabilizer bar bushings. I haven't been doing a great job of identifying the parts making noise before replacing parts... But hey, I say that it's not a parts-cannon approach if the parts you're first replacing are obviously shot and need replacing anyway.
As with the driver's side, when I compressed the old KYB strut off-vehicle it took forever to return. I don't think that's normal, and it certainly isn't compared to the new Sachs. Speaking of which, the Chinese-made Sachs brake line eyelet was too small to properly receive the metal part of the brake line hose, so I wasn't able to mount the hose without expanding the eyelet with a pry bar.
Anyway, KYB struts are off the list for me. I've got a friend that's had good luck with that brand, but I have not.
The ride is now a little quieter and feels more competent, but I've still got some clunks and clicks. At this point, I've replaced all suspension wear parts in the rear except for the pair of forward lateral arms. As far as potential noise-makers in the front, I still need to replace the outer tie rod ends and the axles as they are both torn/lightly clicking, respectively, as well as those damn near inaccessible stabilizer bar bushings. I haven't been doing a great job of identifying the parts making noise before replacing parts... But hey, I say that it's not a parts-cannon approach if the parts you're first replacing are obviously shot and need replacing anyway.
As with the driver's side, when I compressed the old KYB strut off-vehicle it took forever to return. I don't think that's normal, and it certainly isn't compared to the new Sachs. Speaking of which, the Chinese-made Sachs brake line eyelet was too small to properly receive the metal part of the brake line hose, so I wasn't able to mount the hose without expanding the eyelet with a pry bar.
Anyway, KYB struts are off the list for me. I've got a friend that's had good luck with that brand, but I have not.
katapaltes
'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
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- Dallas, TX
- :
- 2003 Protege5
I drove my 86-year-old friend home to a party this past weekend in my Miata. (When I asked if she wanted me to bring the Miata or the hatchback, she readily agreed to the convertible and brought a scarf to keep her hair in place.) As we were driving back from the party, we saw a cloud of smoke ahead of us coming from a car. It was hard to tell with all the smoke, but I finally recognized the unique taillights. It was a P5, smoking like I'd never seen.
I looked at my friend and said "What makes it worse is that it's the same model as my car," which she knew and had ridden in before. I told her that if I could safely take a picture, I'd post it on this forum and you guys would laugh your butts off.
As we were saying our good-byes, she went to step up the curb without my assistance and went to the ground. I'd spent the day walking behind her on the way up stairs, in front of her on the way down stairs, holding her arm on the way up the front walk, yada yada... But I had a lapse and she moved without me. We spent the evening in the ER with a bump on her head and a banged-up knee and shoulder until she finally let me call her son. Be vigilant with your older friends, everyone.
I looked at my friend and said "What makes it worse is that it's the same model as my car," which she knew and had ridden in before. I told her that if I could safely take a picture, I'd post it on this forum and you guys would laugh your butts off.
As we were saying our good-byes, she went to step up the curb without my assistance and went to the ground. I'd spent the day walking behind her on the way up stairs, in front of her on the way down stairs, holding her arm on the way up the front walk, yada yada... But I had a lapse and she moved without me. We spent the evening in the ER with a bump on her head and a banged-up knee and shoulder until she finally let me call her son. Be vigilant with your older friends, everyone.
katapaltes
'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
- :
- Dallas, TX
- :
- 2003 Protege5
You're going to think this is silly, but the title of the thread is literally "What have you done to your P5 today?" So remember... "You asked!"
I replaced the little foam seal on my air intake. The old one was crumbling, and while it wasn't allowing unmetered air or anything, I wanted to replace it. I already had the OEM "part" from my strut rebuild order above. The part isn't circular, but simply a strip of foam insulator with tape on one side. That was a bit of a let down in and of itself, but what was *way* worse was that the item itself was really poorly cut. I was shocked to see anything labeled "Made in Japan" look so awful as the Japanese are insane about quality control, even for a $2.50 item.
What made things more entertaining is what I found in the same storage box as the glue that I retrieved to repair the lacerated part: An entire sheet of foam insulator with one side having a tape backing that I didn't know I had. I literally could have measured and cut a strip of this sheet and been better off than what I received from Mazda.
The seal ready to be installed under the lip of the circular air intake tube shown below:
"Part" from Mazda with flaws, with glue and the sheet of material I could have used in the background:
"Made in Japan." Pfffft...
I replaced the little foam seal on my air intake. The old one was crumbling, and while it wasn't allowing unmetered air or anything, I wanted to replace it. I already had the OEM "part" from my strut rebuild order above. The part isn't circular, but simply a strip of foam insulator with tape on one side. That was a bit of a let down in and of itself, but what was *way* worse was that the item itself was really poorly cut. I was shocked to see anything labeled "Made in Japan" look so awful as the Japanese are insane about quality control, even for a $2.50 item.
What made things more entertaining is what I found in the same storage box as the glue that I retrieved to repair the lacerated part: An entire sheet of foam insulator with one side having a tape backing that I didn't know I had. I literally could have measured and cut a strip of this sheet and been better off than what I received from Mazda.
The seal ready to be installed under the lip of the circular air intake tube shown below:
"Part" from Mazda with flaws, with glue and the sheet of material I could have used in the background:
"Made in Japan." Pfffft...
