What have you done to your P5 today?

SoonP5ismine said:
i would have them look up the serial# when it was produced. i bet it was within the last 3 years. i dont think they stock these things in a warehouse somewhere forever. they must know production date and that should be enough to prove it was purchased within warranty.
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Hah, I doubt they could look that up but I'll give them a call tomorrow to see if it's possible.

SoonP5ismine said:
canadians get screwed enough with high prices for everything else so i think you should make them go this far for their low quality product. im actually in canada now (mississauga) and i just had a few days to see the price ridiculousness here.
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Nice, now you feel our pain! It's amazing how you can get the same quality tools for a third of the cost at places like Harbor Freight in the states. For tools and car parts you can expect to pay about a 50% premium in Canada. That's why I order most of my stuff online and pick it up across the border, or I get a buddy to ship me stuff via USPS.

Anyway, we're way off topic. Enjoy Ontario!
 
I have awarded my P5 with a rest this week while I am lumbering around in a Mountaineer. :)
 
Picked up a racing beat msp sway bar and a three gauge pillar pod.
them up from a local that had sold his msp. 35 bucks a good deal for both? Lol!
Will be ordering some bushings and awr mounts plus some adjustable end links. Anyone have any experience with the Megan racing end links? I like their style over the awr ones......
 
GlowstickNinja said:
Picked up a racing beat msp sway bar and a three gauge pillar pod.
them up from a local that had sold his msp. 35 bucks a good deal for both? Lol!
Will be ordering some bushings and awr mounts plus some adjustable end links. Anyone have any experience with the Megan racing end links? I like their style over the awr ones......
Click to expand...

link to the megan links?
 
jessicacrowe12 said:
Finally put on my springs that I've had stored in my closet for about 4 months now... :) But i did find out all 4 of my struts were bad... :( so I will once again be taking out every single piece of plastic out of the back of my car to replace them sometime soon... Am I missing something there? The only way I could figure to get at the bolts to take out the rear struts and springs was to take out literally every single piece of plastic behind the front seats....

Also someone told me about air struts? Kinda like air bags but no bags are needed, just the struts... I may be sounding totally idiotic right now, but since i have to get new struts anyway I am curious... (My husband is already jealous because I am lower than him, Icing on the cake would to be able to flip switches before him :))

Ok on to the pictures... (sorry about the cell phone quality)
Click to expand...

Looks really nice! I did have to empty my hatch completely as well. I was able to work it through just the hatch though. I did not remove anything in front of the back seats. I probably broke a press in fastener or two, but didn't make any difference at all. I'm not sure there is a way around it unless you want to cut permanant holes. Maybe you could cut holes and find some sort of removable rubber insert that would fill the hole. Not sure on that, but I didn't find a short cut. I did spray some rubber sound barrier down while everything was out of the hatch though. I had to get something else done after taking all of that crap out! LOL!

Not sure about air struts.
 
FINALLY FIXED THE DAMN NOISE!! Ended up that Mazda didn't tighten down the passenger side lower control arm all the way when they replaced the bushing.

So psyched now! She's running better than ever.

Now I will be motivated to finish my body work and get my flaps put on!
 
I wouldn't recommend air struts to anyone. Air struts do have bags on them, air cylinders don't. They basically modify a cheap strut and put an air bag on it. Depends on what car you have whether you'd use cylinders or struts. Protege's would use air struts, but the car I had used air struts up front and cylinders in the rear. In my experience, air ride is just a huge pain. Theres too many things that can go wrong to be on a daily driver. I had trouble in the winter with lines freezing up, even with a water trap. If you don't have all fittings sealed off perfectly, you'll get in and have to wait for the tank to fill up. I can go on and on with the problems I had and same problems a friend had on his truck.
 
Sealed all my welds with POR-15 today, while I was waiting for it to dry on the first coat I went looking for the A/C drain tube but I couldn't find it. Anyone know exactly where it is? I'd like to hit it with some compressed air to unclog it...
 
justanothermp5 said:
its on the back lower passenger side of the firewall. just start your AC and look for water lol
Click to expand...

Ok, I'll take a look tomorrow. I don't think there's any water coming out of it so running it probably won't help. Last time I used my A/C for a long time my car pissed water on my passenger's feet :p

Tonight I sealed all the welds from the inside of the car with that PL roof sealer product. Turns out 2 tubes was just enough for the inside (I may have gone a bit overboard). I'll have to pick up another tube to take care of the underside of the car. Technically I should be fine with just sealing the inside but I'd rather be safe than sorry later on, plus using a caulking gun is fun.

I have another fun rust-related question for you guys. I have this hole underneath the car in front in the passenger corner. It's a bit big:
JwogE.jpg


The hole doesn't actually lead into the cabin, it just seems to be some extra metal used to round out the bottom of the car. My question is: can I fill that with expanding foam sealant (like this)? Afterwards I'd cover it with asphalt undercoating along with the rest of the car's underside.
 
jessicacrowe12 said:
Finally put on my springs that I've had stored in my closet for about 4 months now... :) But i did find out all 4 of my struts were bad... :( so I will once again be taking out every single piece of plastic out of the back of my car to replace them sometime soon... Am I missing something there? The only way I could figure to get at the bolts to take out the rear struts and springs was to take out literally every single piece of plastic behind the front seats....

Also someone told me about air struts? Kinda like air bags but no bags are needed, just the struts... I may be sounding totally idiotic right now, but since i have to get new struts anyway I am curious... (My husband is already jealous because I am lower than him, Icing on the cake would to be able to flip switches before him :))

Ok on to the pictures... (sorry about the cell phone quality)

photo1.jpg

Intrax springs... even though they are not visible on the car, it still makes me happy that they are purple... :)

photo4.jpg

Old springs off, and new ones ready to go...

photo2.jpg

Also gave it an oil change while we were at it...

photo5.jpg

Finished product... and thats sitting on 2x4's... It dropped it so low we couldn't get it off the rack!!! :)
Click to expand...

OMG!!!! I love the purple, everything on my car is purple!.......and yes I am a dude!
 
Doing an oil change now at work...since its super slow. $65 lighter after buying 6 quarts of Mobil 1 10w-30 and a K&N oil filter. Hopefully my oil pressure isnt as low at idle anymore.
 
Damn.... That's double what I pay... Lol mobile1.

Fixed the door panels. Probably going to change my oil next week. Then I will check the front suspension.
Getting a click when I move the car first thing in the morning.
 
Yea, thats really the only downside to the AWR pan, gotta buy more oil lol
BUT, i just saved that money back by doing my own NC state inspection :)
 
Sooo, nobody has any comments/suggestions about using expanding foam sealant to plug that hole?

Anyway, today I added a bit of sound deadening insulation to the trunk area. Just this little bit makes that whole area sound less tinny.
m6U55.jpg


It's actually waterproofing material for showers/roofs/etc. It's a 1mm thick tar-like substance, I got a 7m by 50cm roll for $40 at the local hardware store. I'm going to use two layers on the floor where the old sound insulating material was.
 
You should check out a company called second skin. They have awesome sound deadening materials. Different types as well from mats to paint on materials.


@Simon that's cheating! lol
 
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