What have you done to your P5 today?

Careful putting aftermarket wheels on without lowering the car...can end up looking a bit "4X4"ish......unless you're going for the "donK" look...

My advice is keep the stock rims...they are LIGHT, and not bad looking...use the money to actually increase some aspect of performance...

#1 lowering springs...best cosemtic and performance mod hands down...
I think I would have to agree with you regarding "best cosmetic" mod. I have seen some damn nice cars in pictures in this forum...and they all seem to be lowered.
 
Careful putting aftermarket wheels on without lowering the car...can end up looking a bit "4X4"ish......unless you're going for the "donK" look...

My advice is keep the stock rims...they are LIGHT, and not bad looking...use the money to actually increase some aspect of performance...

#1 lowering springs...best cosemtic and performance mod hands down...

I think I would have to agree with you regarding "best cosmetic" mod. I have seen some damn nice cars in pictures in this forum...and they all seem to be lowered.

Prototype5 is right stockers with a nice drop = nicer car
i have my stock 16 5spoke chromes with Tokico Shocks/Springs all around and my car looks alot better. After about 2 weeks it looks alot better cause they are pretty settled in now.
Click Here for Pics of it
 
Sh!t did my alignment yesterday at sears and all was well until i pulled out of my drive way this morning. Freakin camber bolt on the front driver side tire slipped and now im running atleast a -2.9 camber. Imma go back tomorrow and complain to them even though they said there's no warrenty cuz my car has modified suspension but still this shouldn't have happened. The camber is so off you can literally see the tire leaning inwards towards the fender... Also going to complain to them why my steering wheel isn't straight... sure the car drives straight and doesn't pull in either direction but the steering wheel is like 10deg to the left.

Can't wait for tomorrow to go back to sears and get this sh!t fixed.
 
hmmm... yea i went to sears cuz it's the closet to my house... alignment was way off when i put on the new coilovers... well see what sears says... if not then im gonna hit up firestone... they charge only $50 cuz it's on a military base and i get a discount. Sears FTL!!!
 
I would go INSANE without them....#1 mod....Actually I did go partially insane...

I can imagine, especially since you live in the Northwest.

NTB does good, and so does Firestone. Firestone lifetime plan is like 150

More like $170 now....I got one two years ago during a special for $130. Just be sure to fight them if one tire is out of spec. Last October I didn't when the PS rear toe was out. Well this spring I found that that tire was wearing uneven on the inside, so I have been shopping for tires.

I was going to get some General Exclaim UHP's but 'settled' for something else. lol Pics to come after I get back from vacation in two weeks! :D
 
Christmas in July!

Well I came home today to about 4 different packages sitting at my front door! Too bad I had some serious work to do before I could dig in... Well I just recently opened everything and here it is - and it's not even all I ordered! I'm all excited so I have to run through everything I have planned in the near future!

What you're looking at: used RacingBeat rear swaybar, Turbolife FMIC kit, AN Wrench kit (I'm going to do this right, dammit!), 3 ft 10 AN line, 3 ft 4 AN line, two 45 deg 10 hose ends, straight 4 AN hose end, sandwich plate, 1/8 NPT to 4 AN adaptor, SS 1/8 NPT tee, brass 1/8 NPT male to 1/8 BSPT female adaptor, brass 1/8 BSPT male to 1/8 NPT male adaptor and a bunch of SS 1/8 NPT plugs.

Not pictured: Brand new stock P5 rear endlinks, MAM exhaust manifold, Perrin Fuel Rail, Walboro 255 lb Fuel Pump, WRX 440 cc injectors (probably going to sell - need some 565s)

What I'm still missing (not delivered): 10 AN turbo drain fitting and gasket, 4 AN turbo inlet fitting with restrictor, 90 deg 4 AN hose end, AEM Oil Temperature Gauge, AEM Oil Pressure Gauge.

What I've yet to order: AWR Oil Pan with 10 AN return fitting, AEM/Injen MSP intake, BOV (haven't decided what type yet).

What I'm waiting for: 505Zoom intake manifold
 
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sorry to hear about that...warranty or not, they should still fix it...sounds like they forgot to tighten something.

I'm having similar problems. Raised up the front to make the car even with the rear. Now my steering wheel is the same as yours...at about 11' o'clock to the left. Car drives nice and straight though. I too have a TON of negative camber and some toe in. I'm going in the morning to get it all straight.
When you go, get a print out. Ask them for zero toe front and rear.

Sh!t did my alignment yesterday at sears and all was well until i pulled out of my drive way this morning. Freakin camber bolt on the front driver side tire slipped and now im running atleast a -2.9 camber. Imma go back tomorrow and complain to them even though they said there's no warrenty cuz my car has modified suspension but still this shouldn't have happened. The camber is so off you can literally see the tire leaning inwards towards the fender... Also going to complain to them why my steering wheel isn't straight... sure the car drives straight and doesn't pull in either direction but the steering wheel is like 10deg to the left.

Can't wait for tomorrow to go back to sears and get this sh!t fixed.
 
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That's a real nice list of stuff!

^Motor rebuild coming to fix that oil consumption issue along with all that stuff?
I still need to run compression and leakdown tests before I commit to something that big. If those tests show anything wrong (valve seal, piston ring, etc.) then yeah a motor build will probably in the works. I mean, it will be no matter what but if my oil consumption is the result of a bad turbo I think I'm going to hold out with this engine a little longer.

Of all that stuff pictured, the only parts that will be going in anytime soon are the rear swaybar and the oil system components and even then I can't install the return line until I get the AWR pan. I really can't wait until my new oil pressure gauge comes in so I can install that to verify if my oil pressure is as bad as it seems. As for the FMIC, well, that's going to have some serious work going into it: I need to cut it for MAF relocation, remove the BPV nipple and weld a BOV flange in its place and of course for all this to happen it needs to have the powdercoating stripped. Depending on when 505Zoom finishes his intake manifold I also need to have the TB bend on the coldpipe cut off as well. I want to do all this right so I'm going to have a shop do all the cutting and welding and I'm also going to have them re-bead all the pipe ends.

As for the other parts, that depends on the engine. If the engine is FUBAR'd then I won't be installing the manifold, fuel rail, etc. So yeah, of all those parts next to nothing is going in for a while unfortunateky but hey, this way I get to make a huge build thread when everything's ready :)
 
Alright, i've got a few questions.

First off, my car is starting to shake. When I'm stopped and rev and release the clutch, the whole car starts bucking and I have to let off and rev higher for it to stop.

What is that?

Next, is when I'm at a light and I lightly rev, i hear rushing fluids and then I dont'. As I press teh gas, i hear fluids running like crazy and then i don't hear em anymore.

And every so often, my A/C stinks like stale air.



Anybody got answers to any of those??
 
Alright, i've got a few questions.

First off, my car is starting to shake. When I'm stopped and rev and release the clutch, the whole car starts bucking and I have to let off and rev higher for it to stop.

What is that?

Next, is when I'm at a light and I lightly rev, i hear rushing fluids and then I dont'. As I press teh gas, i hear fluids running like crazy and then i don't hear em anymore.

And every so often, my A/C stinks like stale air.



Anybody got answers to any of those??

The A/c thing makes sense that the drain that drains the water out from your evaporator is clogged. This happens pretty easily when pieces of leaf get in there. You get water built up in there and it sloshes around possibly even hitting the vent fan. Others may know an easier way to unclog it besides getting in there and doing it?
 
So, to fix the stale air, is it getting under the car and hitting it with a blast of air in the a/c vent?

And that should also fix the sloshing/rushing water sound?
 
The stale air is from the stagnat water in your evaporator housing that shouldnt be there. Fix the drain issue and the stagnat air will go away as well. This housing is behind your glove box. You may even be able to see where the exit drain comes out of the firewall and maybe it can be cleared by putting something up it? Nothing that would cause damage to the evaporator core. Correct me if I am way off on this guys!
 
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