What have you done to your MSP today?

may seem like a stupid question for you engine peeps but im not really a super automotive person... do you need to do excess machine work to upgrade the rods? if the innards of the engine are good, can you just drop the pan and support plate and replace them from the bottom?
my engine looks pretty new, i dont plan to make big hp but i dont want my engine to.. lose weight.. Could i swap to k1 or similar aftermarket rods without a absolute teardown?

$500 for k1 rods seems like cheap insurance if nothing else.
You can't replace rods w/o re-balancing the reciprocating assembly. To remove the rods, you have to remove the head and oil pan. You COULD take them out of the bottom, but you'd have to remove the crankshaft, and that means removing the transmission.

So basically no. You have to completely rebuild it.
 
There are ancillary costs to think about, even if you had absolutely no machine work done:
Pistons- $500
Gasket Set- $120
Bearings- $100
Head Bolts- $100
Fluids- $60

Say you're insane and you really want to be cheap: you'd only have to get pistons and reuse everything else, still that's $500. Then when it inevitably flies apart in 218.6 miles, you'll be rebuying rods and pistons.
 
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There are ancillary costs to think about, even if you had absolutely no machine work done:
Pistons- $500
Gasket Set- $120
Bearings- $100
Head Bolts- $100
Fluids- $60

Say you're insane and you really want to be cheap: you'd only have to get pistons and reuse everything else, still that's $500. Then when it inevitably flies apart in 218.6 miles, you'll be rebuying rods and pistons.

I love the exact miles
 
There are ancillary costs to think about, even if you had absolutely no machine work done:
Pistons- $500
Gasket Set- $120
Bearings- $100
Head Bolts- $100
Fluids- $60

Say you're insane and you really want to be cheap: you'd only have to get pistons and reuse everything else, still that's $500. Then when it inevitably flies apart in 218.6 miles, you'll be rebuying rods and pistons.

Back down your boost and you'll be fine -_- or you can just keep making the same mistakes and wasting money.
 
I love the exact miles

I thought you all would. But in actuality it was a little more than 2,800 miles in my case before I had any issues. I got all new parts, had machine work done, assembled in a clean environment, measured tolerances, referenced AllData throughout the process if I wasn't sure of a torque spec, component position, etc. It's not like I bought used parts, reused bearings/seals/gaskets/internals, put it together in my driveway and got everything "tight enough" or anything like that.

Seriously, don't cut corners, especially BIG corners.

The "corner" I'm cutting off, even now, is the Doc B oiling system. I have made other "improvements" like the oil squirter delete and AWR deep sump, but as I have said time and time again, I am aware of this not being a fix, but I do believe it will improve things. If I have another issue, I have no one to blame but myself.

Another thing to think about is your ability to correct these mistakes. I'm not using my profession as an excuse to "cut corners," but I can't imagine how I'd ever keep this car, even lightly modified, with the way I drive, if I didn't have my shop to use.

On a side note:
The final component needed for reassembly was a crankshaft. I stumbled across an OEM NEW crankshaft still in original packaging from a Mazda dealership here in Tennessee for 1/6 of list price. Apparently it was special ordered and never paid for or picked up and had been on the shelf for almost 5 years. It shipped out last night and should be here tomorrow.
 
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Does anybody know where to source a Canadian egr?

WorldPac has them. And Borg Warner makes them. Borg Warner part number is EGR1883. Advance and O'Reilly both carry BWD brand, and you could easily have another company cross reference the number to their own.
 
WorldPac has them. And Borg Warner makes them. Borg Warner part number is EGR1883. Advance and O'Reilly both carry BWD brand, and you could easily have another company cross reference the number to their own.

Cool thanks for the info... Probably should get one soon as I've having idle issues on/off...
 
The "corner" I'm cutting off, even now, is the Doc B oiling system. I have made other "improvements" like the oil squirter delete and AWR deep sump, but as I have said time and time again, I am aware of this not being a fix, but I do believe it will improve things. If I have another issue, I have no one to blame but myself.

TheMAN wrote a very nice thread about about a valve cover mod that may or may not help. He knew his stuff about the FS so it might be worth a read. I can't find it on 247 but it's on TMF: http://www. the mazda forum .com/showthread.php/7348-The-REAL-reason-why-the-FS-burns-oil

Compared to rebuilding an engine, looks like a simple job.
 
Everything is here and ready to begin reassembly of the engine. After assembling it, but before installing, I've got to replace the engine harness, reinstall the SSAFC and install my gauges.
 
I have so many goodies laying around that I have yet to install. I really should stop procrastinating so much, and get it all done before the winter is over.
 
anyone else experience brake hardware noise like at least once every year for the front brakes? i seem to have to take everyhting apart to lube it every now and then. i just changed my brakes in april and lubed the s*** out of it.
 
anyone else experience brake hardware noise like at least once every year for the front brakes? i seem to have to take everyhting apart to lube it every now and then. i just changed my brakes in april and lubed the s*** out of it.

nope. maybe only for about 10-20 seconds if I have some minor surface rust on the rotors from my MSP sitting, but goes away immediately after stepping on the brakes.
 
The pistons have a specific orientation, but I can't remember which. Does the Wiseco part number face the exhaust or intake side??? K1 is closed today and we're trying to assemble it.
 

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