What have you done to your Miata today?

Yesterday I washed her and did some detailing. Adjusted my alternator belt, first time using the Gates Krikit tool I bought last year. It works great. I had a hard time finding the correct tension to use (lots of speculation on it). After some searching I found this site: https://www.gates.com/~/media/files.../tech-tips-and-tsbs/belt-tensioning-sheet.pdf. That should answer any questions about it.

Since my wife has decided she really doesn't want to go to MATG, I figured I'd put the Recaros back in for the trip. They will be better suited for spirited driving than the leather NB2s. Retrieved them from storage and did the swap, including moving the air bladder over on the driver's seat. Went for an errand, everything was fine until I started her to head home. I heard an unusual noise coming from the alternator area, and for some reason the temperature gauge was showing higher than normal. Got home and checked the alt belt tension, it was pretty tight. After she cooled off I loosened it up a little and then went for a test. No strange noises and all was back to normal.

Today I also checked the cruise control vacuum motor using the test procedure from the FSM. Both my original and a spare I have checked out (I had thought I might have blown the diaphragm on the original from boost). With that result plus what I found on the switches, it's starting to look like the culprit might be the control module itself. If I feel motivated I might perform the checks on that tomorrow.
 
Did some general prep work for the trip today. First thing this morning I adjusted the window seals (find out in the morning how well they seal now), then oil/filter change, polished the headlights, cleaned/treated the interior. Packed up some tools and have all that in the trunk. I have to get myself some directions printed out so I can figure out where I'm headed. I wasn't able to dive into the cruise control further, somehow my electrical manual has gone missing.
 
Further disassembled the engine in preparation for removal- removed accessories, starter, a couple of bellhousing bolts and radiator. Basically, at this point, it's the remaining bellhousing bolts, torque converter bolts and engine mounts keeping it in place.

I plan on removing the engine, from the top, without the transmission mated to it- any tips or suggestions? I think the FSM suggests removal by dropping the cradle just as it did with my RX8, but I separated the two and swung it right out and back in without issue in five hours (R&R was close to 9 if I remember correctly), and I see no reason this cannot be done with the NA. Furthermore, this is being done in my driveway and not my shop. Thanks in advance!
 
i opened the garage door and hugged it on my way to the doctors office this morning.
Life is a cruel b**** sometime. FINALLY after 4 years i have the car running like it was truly capable of running when i bought the car, only to two days later i find a gopher hole walking on a golf course and f****ed up ankle. Im in a boot, awaiting an MRI to see if anything is torn. :( shes sadly going to be sitting in the garage for a while and it sucks knowing how well she runs...
 
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I plan on removing the engine, from the top, without the transmission mated to it- any tips or suggestions? I think the FSM suggests removal by dropping the cradle just as it did with my RX8, but I separated the two and swung it right out and back in without issue in five hours

For a driveway job (or really, any non-lift type job), it can definitely come out the top. Having a load-leveler is key, however. You'll lift a little, bring it forward a little, bring the angle up a little, lift a little, bring it forw....you get the idea.

Oh, remove the hood too. I have no idea if it COULD be done with the hood in place, but I doubt it, and I wouldn't want to try lol
 
For a driveway job (or really, any non-lift type job), it can definitely come out the top. Having a load-leveler is key, however. You'll lift a little, bring it forward a little, bring the angle up a little, lift a little, bring it forw....you get the idea.

Oh, remove the hood too. I have no idea if it COULD be done with the hood in place, but I doubt it, and I wouldn't want to try lol

Having an owned an RX8 for a few years, working on it and my friends MSM, they're incredibly similar, almost identical, in layout and design. I was going to approach it just as I had on those vehicles. Thanks!
 
My ELBJs showed up yesterday but not enough time for installation and alignment before MATG. Came down this afternoon and lost my Dragon cherry. For anyone reading this who hasn't been, try to drive it at least once in your life. It is amazing.
 
My ELBJs showed up yesterday but not enough time for installation and alignment before MATG. Came down this afternoon and lost my Dragon cherry. For anyone reading this who hasn't been, try to drive it at least once in your life. It is amazing.

Every time I've been in the area, I've been driving this...

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...and driving the section of the Cherohala Skyway on the way into the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest (Where Chasing the Dragon is held) like that was bad enough.

Which reminds me, you're only about 20 minutes from the hill climb site. Punch in "Chasing the Dragon Hill Climb Start Line" into Waze and give the road a try, seriously.
 
I have always found it easiest to pull the transmission with the engine... It was easier to deal with trans fluid and two PPF bolts than re-aligning the engine-clutch to the transmission IMO.

Like AMaff said, take the hood off, take the radiator out, get an engine leveler, and the engine and transmission can come right out the top!

Starting to tilt and slide:

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Most of the way out:

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Splitting/attaching the transmission outside of the car:

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I've even pulled the engine with the entire intake and exhaust manifolds and accessories still attached! It is super easy.
 
I have always found it easiest to pull the transmission with the engine... It was easier to deal with trans fluid and two PPF bolts than re-aligning the engine-clutch to the transmission IMO.

So much this. If I'm just changing a clutch, I'm obviously not going to pull the engine, but if the engine has to come out? Might as well pull the trans too and get them lined up outside the car.
 
So much this. If I'm just changing a clutch, I'm obviously not going to pull the engine, but if the engine has to come out? Might as well pull the trans too and get them lined up outside the car.

Oh come on, where's your sense of adventure? It's just SOOOO much fun lining up the transmission input splines with the clutch while on your back underneath the car.

I'll have a look for the hill climb route. I suspect I was close earlier tonight, I started to go on the Sunset Drive and we were on Joyce Kilmer at one point. Anyone who drives a tow rig around here has my respect (as well as sympathy for their obvious insanity).
 
I'll have a look for the hill climb route. I suspect I was close earlier tonight, I started to go on the Sunset Drive and we were on Joyce Kilmer at one point.

Then you were DAMN close, because there's only 2 roads through there :D

Anyone who drives a tow rig around here has my respect (as well as sympathy for their obvious insanity).

I don't know if "respect" is the right word. Pity, maybe. Junkies shouldn't get respect for the depths they stoop to, to feed their addiction

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(rlaugh)
 
Had a blast at MATG. Got to meet some people I only knew from forums and drive some great roads. Here's a few pictures (excuse the poor quality, I forgot to pack my camera and only had my phone to use):

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I wanted to make it this year in the $50 Miata seeing as how I'm only 30 minutes away, but wasn't able to do so. Instead, I spent the day removing and installing the BP4W. I shouldn't have more than a couple of hours remaining.
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I spent, like, twenty minutes searching for my CKP sensor connector, the chassis side... Couldn't find it... Did a little research, and, apparently I just wasn't paying attention to the fact the CKP sensor was connected at all because it doesn't have one as it's a 1995. VIN on the engine that was removed didn't match and was a remanufactured unit as indicated by the heat tab affixed to the block. Want to check that VIN and see what year engine that was. Going to remove the CKP sensor. Unless I'm completely wrong and am still missing it somehow.
 
Are you talking about the Crank (or in your case, cam) Position Sensor? Not sure what you mean by "chassis side," but the sensor itself is visible in the last picture, on the back of the head, next to your coil packs, and appears to be plugged in. Kinda confused as to what exactly you're looking for.
 
Had a blast at MATG. Got to meet some people I only knew from forums and drive some great roads. Here's a few pictures (excuse the poor quality, I forgot to pack my camera and only had my phone to use)

Awesome! I pitched the idea of going next year to Tam and she surprised me by saying she was interested. Of course we'd be stopping in Nashville and I'm sure other places to try some eateries, so that appeals to her. :)

I wanted to make it this year in the $50 Miata seeing as how I'm only 30 minutes away, but wasn't able to do so. Instead, I spent the day removing and installing the BP4W. I shouldn't have more than a couple of hours remaining.

I saw that bowl of bolts and cringed. If it was my neurotic and insecure self tackling this type of job, I'd have all of them laid out and marked with where I removed them from to ensure (I'd still probably screw it up) I put them back in the right place. lol
 
Understandably so, but that's a magnetic tray and designed for just this purpose. The majority of the bolts shown are from the engine removal as it was partially disassembled before removal. Engine assembly, for the most part, took place on my back patio and indoors. That's not to say I'm not using various bolts from disassembled to finish up reassembly. Plus, you put the bolts in as they came out, they more or less stack. A quick visual of a bolt to go beyond thread an pitch, gives big indicators of its placement- rust, grease, clean, shouldered or not, flanged or not, finish and, of course, length. While many bolts may fit, having an eye to spot the correct bolt is key. Having owned and worked on my own vehicles being Mazda for the last decade, that also helps. Really, it's just about common sense.
 
I figured the tray was magnetic. Everything you said makes perfect sense and with the experience comes courage, in my case. Anytime I attempt something new, I over analyze and think of all the things that could go wrong vs. being confident in my abilities. I'll admit, it's actually stopped me from attempting some jobs where I've ended up paying someone to do it.
 
Awesome! I pitched the idea of going next year to Tam and she surprised me by saying she was interested. Of course we'd be stopping in Nashville and I'm sure other places to try some eateries, so that appeals to her. :)

That's cool. I probably won't be able to make it next year, but I will return the next time I am able. Hopefully with Robyn in tow next time.

This morning I swapped back to the NB2 seats. Easy enough to do, just had to move the seat belt receivers and the driver's lumbar bladder over. After that I installed the new extended lower ball joints up front. Took me about an hour for both sides, the hardest part is getting the ball joint separated from the upright. Here's a comparison picture of the old and new ball joints (new one on the left):

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While the difference isn't great, it makes a huge change in the camber.

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I went from about -1.8 degrees to what looks like maybe -3.0 degrees. I'm getting her realigned tomorrow so I'll find out then what it changed to. Just moving her around in and out of the garage, I can't understand how people who have their cars set like this are able to drive on the street.
 
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