What have you done to your Mazda6 today?

gave mine a quick rinse today, also snuck my way into the shop at dads place and put it up in the air to check the endlinks, rear diff mount, and anything else that clould be causing my mystery noise, nothing loose or broken....
 
Changed my oil today. Found the reason for the splash shield rattle; one of the retaining bolts that holds the guard up is snapped, and when the A/C kicks on (and with the AWR mount) it rattles against the frame. I'll have to tap it out and fix it, but for now it's too damn hot out.
 
Nice boosted. Now put it on! It seems like my HKS has broken in now. the blow off isnt as loud and crisp as it was the first few days.
 
Had oil changed today and tires rotated. Dealer said front brakes at 4 mm. Looks like I'll do that later this summer. I also got the car washed. Ready for my trip to Canton, OH.
 
gave mine a quick rinse today, also snuck my way into the shop at dads place and put it up in the air to check the endlinks, rear diff mount, and anything else that clould be causing my mystery noise, nothing loose or broken....

i must have missed your other post. is your mystery noise coming from the rear? i have a mystery noise coming from my rear.

my cars rear that is.
 
Reflashed to a new map today targeting 20psi. I was going 50mph. Dropped into 4th and hit it. threw me back in the seat. :) I am curious how much boost I will be safe at. 22psi anyone?
 
according to the cobb atr info. the stock maf becomes inaccurate above 22 psi and suggest not running any more boost than that on the stock maf.

you might wanna datalog and make sure you not making 20 some psi of boost at like 3500 rpm. thats a little dangerous for the stock bottom end.
 
i must have missed your other post. is your mystery noise coming from the rear? i have a mystery noise coming from my rear.

my cars rear that is.


yeah it's in a rear... i've had it for a while now, it all started when they replaced an axle back in march or april, they've had me replace a strut, and rear rotors and the noise still occurs

its a rotational clunk when brakes are applied
 
oh ok. nothing like mine then. i get a clang when i down shift when coming to a stop. doesnt do it at all if i pull the e-brake up one click. i'm suspicious of the rear diff. any ideas anyone.
 
according to the cobb atr info. the stock maf becomes inaccurate above 22 psi and suggest not running any more boost than that on the stock maf.

you might wanna datalog and make sure you not making 20 some psi of boost at like 3500 rpm. thats a little dangerous for the stock bottom end.

yeah but thats in the Stock Draw Thru Position of the MAF too, what about Blow Thru.. can we be safe running more... im not going past 20 psi for sake of my motor.

Taylor try scaling down those Wastegate tables maybe another row or 2 of Zero'd out numbers accross the board that way there your not making full boost past 3500 rpm in any gear. it will be safer no matter what psi your running anyways.

The K04 efficentcy range gives out at 18psi IIRC.. so 22psi would be pushing hot air..
 
So thats a no? Even with the fmic and meth it wouldnt be good? I am assuming this will of course kill the turbo after time. But 19-20 already seems pushing it. But 20 psi felt so good. :)

On the way home tonight I did some logs. Well on my 3rd gear wot I blew a hole on my coupler coming off the turbo. I think the heat from the manifold being soo close caused it to become very soft and the 20 psi just blew it out. Thankfully I have a spare to replace it with.
 
So thats a no? Even with the fmic and meth it wouldnt be good? I am assuming this will of course kill the turbo after time. But 19-20 already seems pushing it. But 20 psi felt so good. :)

On the way home tonight I did some logs. Well on my 3rd gear wot I blew a hole on my coupler coming off the turbo. I think the heat from the manifold being soo close caused it to become very soft and the 20 psi just blew it out. Thankfully I have a spare to replace it with.

how close is it.. ive never had an issue like that..use a small piece of header wrap over it, to atleast protect it and by using that small piece if it happens to come lose and or blow off for some reason, your not wasting a whole lot of wrap..
 
Well mazda just called said $3400 n tax to replace turbo not covered under warranty, warranty expired on june 4th ffs and said not covered under powertrain.
 
Well mazda just called said $3400 n tax to replace turbo not covered under warranty, warranty expired on june 4th ffs and said not covered under powertrain.

They're trying to take the easy way out. Check your owner's manual for description of warranty coverage.
 
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