What have you done to your Mazda5 today?

Time consuming tasks accomplished today:
1. Manifold removal
2. Brake distribution block relocation / bracket modification
3. Shifter cable bracket relocation / modification
4. Oil feed source / oil filter housing removal and installation (this was the unexpected difficulty)

How extensive were these modifications? On ms3' s and CX7' s there is a bracket that bolts to bottom of the turbo and then to the block, are you able to do the same? What was th unexpected difficulty with the oil feed? Good luck with the progress on this.
 
How extensive were these modifications? On ms3' s and CX7' s there is a bracket that bolts to bottom of the turbo and then to the block, are you able to do the same? What was th unexpected difficulty with the oil feed? Good luck with the progress on this.

Not that extensive, I guess anytime I can modify and reuse a bracket, that's fairly minor compared to fabing something new.

I am going to try to incorporate the bracket, yes.

I used a Tee fitting on the oil pressure switch as planned. Removed the oil filter housing no problem. Had to loosen and rotate the oil filter cooler a few degrees (not to much such that it would leak) to get clearance to the front for the switch. But then I had to be mindful that the lower NPT to AN fitting had tight clearance to a protruding ear on the block casting.

Then the main issue was that the Tee fitting obscured the top right bolt on re-installation. I had to take the Tee fitting out (many times) and re-wrap with more Teflon tape so that the Tee fitting wouldn't screw in so far. Even so, clearance to that bolt was tight, and involved a combination of using a box wrench 5degrees at a time, and a 10mm 1/4" socket that still didn't quite grab the socket fully. All in all, I probably went back and forth between the car and workbench about 30 times test fitting and attempting to install the thing before finally getting it working.

If I had to do it again, I'd use a Tee fitting where the fitting connects to the housing (the male fitting) on the top of the "T", instead of the base. Basically, so that the switch and AN fitting were on the right and bottom, instead of the top and bottom like they are now.
 
Gotcha, and thanks for the reply. I'm becoming more and more interested in this as I can procure and rebuild a stock turbo for next to nothing, and it all depends on the other associated costs and potential problems that would arise. Getting it tuned right is my other concern. Like you though, I would like to stick a closely to off the shelf components as possible. This wouldn't be until next summer. Man, this is making the old gears churn in my head.
 
Hauled home (2) 10' gutter sections, (2) 10' downspouts, and (2) 10' gutter aprons. As a bonus, I didn't crack the windshield (headbang)

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Found my aux tranny cooler line was weeping ATF everywhere, this was due to the guy at the auto parts store giving me fuel hose and not transmission cooler hose, replaced with correct hose.

Also noticed I need to replace my radiator support due to the right upper mount being damaged from a run in with a deer; the support is just reinforced plastic, it has 6 mount points but the two upper mounts carry most of the weight. Ordered new OEM support $290 free shipping, should be here by this Friday. It sucks but at least I know its a pretty easy job.

The road noise finally got to me and using the idea from others, I ended up using some home window seal sick on insulation from Lowes (arouond $18 for a good size roll, mine was called "tite seal" i think), used almost an entire roll just for the spare tire area, then a bunch under the front driver and passenger foot well area plus a bunch on the inside front fender liners and some areas between the liner and the body.
After freeway driving at 70mph I think it did make a difference, I can talk to my wife without yelling and I don't have to turn up the radio as much to drown out the road noise, i still have extra leftover so I think I might add a few more layers and for the price I could even add another layer everywhere and maybe some for the roof.
 
Nice deck!, the only thing I don't like is how people peering in can tell its not stock, I am too paranoid about things like that.

Yea I need to track down the OEM install kit. Mazda uses standard double din Pioneer units in countries it offers navigation.
 
Yea I need to track down the OEM install kit. Mazda uses standard double din Pioneer units in countries it offers navigation.

Good idea, might get pricey. I have been thinking about ripping the face off my generic ebay but made to look oem gps with all the buttons and dials and shape it to fit the pioneer sph-da210 and just leave an old galaxy s2 connected for the ar liberator app
 
Hauled a Boler 700 km

We're borrowing this Boler for the time being and brought it home to Winnipeg from The Pas this weekend. everything worked out fine but the Boler suspension is bumpy!
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Bought some car sound insulation mat and installed it inside front doors, behind rear trim, trunk area and under the rear two rows of sears.
Just left the two side doors and under the front seats and roof, if I have any left over.
Looks like rear door will be a bit of a paint due to the access.
 
Front pads and rotors at 79,550 miles: Centric premium rotors and Posi Quiet ceramic pads. Hardest part was getting the rotors off - they needed some motivation from a hammer.

Coming soon: oil change, front struts, and rear stabilizer bar bushings.
 
Just ordered a Secret Weapon R Cold Air Intake and a Zex wet nitrous kit. I'll install them next week after I get a baseline dino and 1/4 mile pass. :):)
 
Did the rear shocks today. Discovered the source of the rear end clunk. The lower suspension arm bushings are completely gone, as in no rubber remaining at all. Its a wonder the rear end would stay aligned at all! Incedentally the van has been destroying rear tires for a while now.
 
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