Lots of work being done with mine, new ac compressor, brakes, tires, wheels, roof rack with cargo case, new HID lights in low, high, fog and a set of Hella FF75 Driving beams with 55w HID n them. Need the extra light for moose. Also adding the new nav unit that replaces the stock stereo, new speakers, pet /cargo barrier, and LED lighting all around in signals, brake, reverse and all interior. Since just reading this thread, im going to do the overhead cargo light too, but install a switch in the rear. Doing this in my JK unlimited as well for cooking on the tailgate table at night while on expeditions.
What have you done to your Mazda5 today?
- Thread starter Rockin03mp5
- Start date
After I got the driver side bolt out, I cut close to 1/2 an inch off before I put it back.
Good idea but I found if I disconnected the rear part of the muffler (only has two spring bolts) I was able to just slip the rubber hanger off and get the bolt in and out easily
Installed a little amp temporarily. Ran all the wiring for a bigger amp. It's an Alpine KTP-445U. I have a PDR-F50 ready to go in as well.
WP_20140811_20_05_21_Raw 1 by tuanies, on Flickr
WP_20140811_20_05_21_Raw 1 by tuanies, on FlickrIndelibility
Member
Wife took the 5 today, so I took the time to clean her nasty headlamps on her Miata.
Indelibility
Member
As always, I'm here to play devils advocate, with a word of warning/advice.
Keep in mind that those headlamp polishing kits are a very temporary solution UNLESS you apply a new permanent UV protectant after you have polished. Plastic headlamp lenses are coated with a UV protectant layer, and when you polish the lenses, you remove that protectant. Before polishing, the UV protectant is still working, even if the lenses are clouded it is basically all in the UV layer of the lens. When you polish, you remove the haze, but also the UV protectant layer with it. So you get a better looking and performing lens - but only for a short while. Now, without any UV protection, the lens will haze faster, and it will haze through the entire depth of the plastic new to just the top layer, which will become irreversible and no amount of polishing will clear the haze.
The only real solution is to:
1. replace the lamp with OEM units (and only OEM units - I have never seen an aftermarket unit that met the FMVSS requirements to be legal sold for highway use. Photometric, vibration, durability/reliability, dust intrusion, fogging, thermals, they all fail, always) or
2. Apply some sort of PERMANENT UV protectant to the lens. Real permanent solutions aren't cheap ($50+ for Opti-clear, Xpel film, etc), but they are cheaper than a new set of OEM headlamps. Note: the Mequire's headlamp protectant from the autoparts store is not anywhere close to permanent, and I seriously doubt anyone is going to reapply it every week, and if you don't, you'll be back to hazy lenses in a year and you won't be able to polish them clear this time.
Source: used to do headlamp evaluation and design for automotive OEM.
Keep in mind that those headlamp polishing kits are a very temporary solution UNLESS you apply a new permanent UV protectant after you have polished. Plastic headlamp lenses are coated with a UV protectant layer, and when you polish the lenses, you remove that protectant. Before polishing, the UV protectant is still working, even if the lenses are clouded it is basically all in the UV layer of the lens. When you polish, you remove the haze, but also the UV protectant layer with it. So you get a better looking and performing lens - but only for a short while. Now, without any UV protection, the lens will haze faster, and it will haze through the entire depth of the plastic new to just the top layer, which will become irreversible and no amount of polishing will clear the haze.
The only real solution is to:
1. replace the lamp with OEM units (and only OEM units - I have never seen an aftermarket unit that met the FMVSS requirements to be legal sold for highway use. Photometric, vibration, durability/reliability, dust intrusion, fogging, thermals, they all fail, always) or
2. Apply some sort of PERMANENT UV protectant to the lens. Real permanent solutions aren't cheap ($50+ for Opti-clear, Xpel film, etc), but they are cheaper than a new set of OEM headlamps. Note: the Mequire's headlamp protectant from the autoparts store is not anywhere close to permanent, and I seriously doubt anyone is going to reapply it every week, and if you don't, you'll be back to hazy lenses in a year and you won't be able to polish them clear this time.
Source: used to do headlamp evaluation and design for automotive OEM.
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Thank You!
Works like a charm.
Indelibility
Member
True. Or you could just wrap the headlights in a clear UV resistant vinyl. Protects the finish and protects from road debris
- :
- 2010 Mazda5 GT
I've used the Meguiar's and 3M kit in the past, but eventually settled on the Duplicolor kit which includes a clearcoat UV protectant as the last step. Have used it to clear two sets of headlights now (my P5 and my wife's Protege), and the job has held up well in the Florida sun and rain. I say it's been close to 6 months and all headlights still look good. So the UV protectant is a integral step in clearing up headlights. The previous kits I used, the hazing would come back in maybe 3 months time or so.
- :
- 2008 Mazda5 GT
those look like NC headlights. Very surprised they are so cloudy already!? You should try aluminum wheel polish. Does the same for cheapWife took the 5 today, so I took the time to clean her nasty headlamps on her Miata.
also great for cleaning foggy vert windows and stained pots and pans. Reuse any orbital buffer to make the job easier The UV treatment is a valid concern but it is a cheap quarterly job.- :
- 2008 Mazda5 GT
It didn't come out very well, but I am too lazy to redo it.
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Do you drive a GT? If not, just get a GT wheel (leather) off eBay. If you are going to stitch one on, you need to at least remove the steering wheel control modules so you can go "under" it.
