What have you done to your Mazda5 today?

[IamFODI]

Front brake rotors to fix a vibration under braking (worked)
Radar detector hardwire

And my favorite: a custom leather-wrapped steering wheel! Posted about it in my build thread here.

 

[1987cp]

If this is about the front lower control arms (LCAs), I'd like to share some experience. I've had 1st gen Mazda 5 with this. When choosing LCAs, double-check the geometry. I've seen some feedback about aftermarket LCAs scratching against the front rotors.
Also, while at it - check and possibly replace the sway bar bushings. They are cheap and easy to replace while you're there.

Rear, actually.

Went out and bought a ratcheting breaker bar (my old C-H impact wrench was doing no good, maybe because of a low rate of blows per minute, and using a regular breaker bar was proving completely miserable) to finish removing the LCA to trailing arm bolt. Which broke, so I had to cut it so I could pry the LCA loose. Hoping I can get the stub of the bolt out with enough heat and penetrant. Spring came out with zero load as I had anticipated, which is good ... but now the inner LCA bolt won't budge and I'm out of propane and it's raining!

This is beginning to look interesting: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned) Doesn't look like a direct bolt-in, somehow ....

 

[1987cp]

Front brake rotors to fix a vibration under braking (worked)
Radar detector hardwire

And my favorite: a custom leather-wrapped steering wheel! Posted about it in my build thread here.

That looks nice! Might even feel better than the original leather cover on the T and GT models.

 

[1987cp]

Yay, rear suspension is back together. For now. And the clunk is finally gone. I thought all those control arms would never line up!

If anyone needs to care (and I hope you don't), the outer rearward rear LCA bolt and the lower shock mount bolt are the same. Hardware store replacement is M12-1.25x80. Explodey view: Mazda REAR SUSPENSION MECHANISMS

Also, I learned the inboard rearward LCA bolt is the adjustable type with big eccentric washers, where you loosen the nut and then turn the bolt to adjust the LCA in or out. I had no idea. The alignment is definitely different now, so I'll have to give it a tweak once I'm through with tomorrow's erranding.

 

[IamFODI]

That looks nice! Might even feel better than the original leather cover on the T and GT models.

It's definitely thicker, which I like.

 

[IamFODI]

Replaced a rear ARB end link that was less than a year old.

Link to detailed post

 

[Maikel]

I installed little bit dampening to roof panel.

There isn't anything attached from factory.
I added 2mm stp bytul deadening mat.

And over those some more softer 10mm closed cell mat.

Headliner went back without any problems.
And the differece is really noticable.
I would say that well spended couple of hours.

 

[theblooms]

I should have done my roof when I did the rest of the van.

 

[MolarCraft]

I installed little bit dampening to roof panel.


There isn't anything attached from factory.
I added 2mm stp bytul deadening mat.


And over those some more softer 10mm closed cell mat.


Headliner went back without any problems.
And the differece is really noticable.
I would say that well spended couple of hours.

How difficult was removing the headliner? Mine has some kind of barbeque-sauce-like stains on the top from the previous owner I'm going to try and remove, or maybe just reline with new material.

 

[hleboklop]

How difficult was removing the headliner? Mine has some kind of barbeque-sauce-like stains on the top from the previous owner I'm going to try and remove, or maybe just reline with new material.

IMO, not very hard. IIRC, you'd have to remove the a, b, and c pillars trim. A & b are just clips, relatively easy, c pillars trim (in the rear) would require removing safety belts mounts, which is 17 mm bolt. The trim above the hatch is just metal clips, that are easy to lose and a few plastic clips that are easy to break.

Aside from the belt bolts it's easy, in both gens.

 

[MolarCraft]

IMO, not very hard. IIRC, you'd have to remove the a, b, and c pillars trim. A & b are just clips, relatively easy, c pillars trim (in the rear) would require removing safety belts mounts, which is 17 mm bolt. The trim above the hatch is just metal clips, that are easy to lose and a few plastic clips that are easy to break.

Aside from the belt bolts it's easy, in both gens.

Nice, I'm real familiar with breaking clips. I keep some JB Weld on-hand for those that can be put back together lol...

Good to know its not too bad!

 

[Maikel]

IMO, not very hard. IIRC, you'd have to remove the a, b, and c pillars trim. A & b are just clips, relatively easy, c pillars trim (in the rear) would require removing safety belts mounts, which is 17 mm bolt. The trim above the hatch is just metal clips, that are easy to lose and a few plastic clips that are easy to break.

Aside from the belt bolts it's easy, in both gens.

Yes, it's "suprisingly" easy.
Seatbelt bolts were 14mm, and also philips screwdriver is needed to get the sunvisors and front dome light off.
Center dome light you don't need to take off, because it's not holding the headliner.

And the c-/d-pillar panel don't have to come off, just loose from upper end, then headliner can be wiggled out there.

If you want take those rear panels off, then it's bigger job, because you have to start from bottom and removing rear seat..

 

[hleboklop]

I'm almost positive that you don't have to remove the rear seats to remove the c-columns trim (beige parts around the rear side windows).
The only part in the bottom rear to be removed would be the plastic part across the bottom of the hatch, which would require removing 2 bolts/screws holding the cargo strap loops. Then, the black lower sides - you just pull them to the center, optionally, you can detach the beige parts, given that you already removed the seatbelt bolts.

 

[Maikel]

Changed thermostat, old one looks ok, but coolant temperature didn't go over 78'c

Now temperature rises to about 88'c and stays there nicely.
And washed the engine bay after thermostat change.

 

[zedebra]

Changed thermostat, old one looks ok, but coolant temperature didn't go over 78'c
View attachment 322848
Now temperature rises to about 88'c and stays there nicely.
And washed the engine bay after thermostat change.
View attachment 322849

View attachment 322850

I changed my Thermostat and Radiator last weekend, but I didnt clean the engine bay, which I should do xD

 

[IamFODI]

Fluid Film! (rust preventative coating)

 

[Silentnoise713]

Gas cap broke. FWIW, you can push 'in' and it will catch to tighten/remove, however, the the break causes a vapor leak and gives a nice CEL reminder... OEM cap seem more complex than a cheap MotoRad MGC845 but it does the job.

 

[Maikel]

I installed litte bit sound deadening to front wheel wells.
First inside plastic liner off and cleaning

Then butyl where it could be installed.
I actually did put little pieces also to outer fenders.

Then plastic liners also got butyl.
Didn't put that much because of the increased weight and I'm not sure can those plastic clips hold it in place.

And lastly covered it with one CCF.

Everything went nicely back and when I drove back home..
Honestly next to nothing improvements when driving below 30-40mph.
But after 40mph you could notice little bit better and especially in highway speeds the difference is noticiable.

Wasn't wasted time and effort after all.

 

[kashun842]

Haven't post here for a while. Got some MS3 seats recently and installed them per the instruction by another fellow user here. Also a matching armrest to finish up.

 

[MolarCraft]

Haven't post here for a while. Got some MS3 seats recently and installed them per the instruction by another fellow user here. Also a matching armrest to finish up.View attachment 323386View attachment 323387View attachment 323388View attachment 323389

These look clean! Very nice. New handle on that handbrake lever too? Or is that stock?