justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
remove what part right at the TB?
VTCS/VICS Delete and Intake Manifold Modification
- Thread starter JDM Sam
- Start date
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
ok i think i get what your sayin...if u look at the first pic JDM Sam posted, the TB would be on the left, then it goes straight into the intake mani into a chamber that then disperses the air into the remaing 4 (in this case 2) chambers
if u take out that space your talking about then youll have all the air try to go into the first 2 and not have any going to the second 2...if that makes sense
if u take out that space your talking about then youll have all the air try to go into the first 2 and not have any going to the second 2...if that makes sense
I think it's also largely a matter of how air flows from the plenum into the openings of the runners. You reach a point where taking out more of that material just isn't worth the PITA of getting in there with a dremel or grinder.
But then again, I'm a noob to manifold and headwork, and the like. I can quote the theory, but I don't have a whole lot of practical experience. This just looked like a good way to use a spare manifold, and a good way to while away the cold minnesota winter nights. haha
But then again, I'm a noob to manifold and headwork, and the like. I can quote the theory, but I don't have a whole lot of practical experience. This just looked like a good way to use a spare manifold, and a good way to while away the cold minnesota winter nights. haha
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
i was thinking of using a air cut off tool with a small cutting disk
probably would work alot better
probably would work alot better
If you're like me you have a milling machine that will cut that crap like butter... I plan on doing this but am waiting for my car to be turbo first. Most people don't understand that cutting aluminum is not like cutting steel... You need lots of fluid and slower speeds. Fluid keeps the heat down and the chips moving away from the cut. Slower speed allows the tool to tear at the piece rather than just skipping off the surface. Try different things till you find something that works.
What I've been doing is using 1/16 - 3/8" drill bits to remove the bulk of the material, and then going in with a dremel high speed cutting bit to remove the little bit of material between holes and smooth down the surfaces. Use the larger drill bits to poke holes along the boundary of the area you want to remove, then get in the spaces with smaller bits.
I don't know if the overall technique is much faster than going at it with a dremel alone, but those big drill bits sure do remove material faster!!
And yeah, work slow. I've been keeping the cutting surfaces slightly coated with WD-40... probably not the ideal cutting fluid, but it seems to work okay.
I don't know if the overall technique is much faster than going at it with a dremel alone, but those big drill bits sure do remove material faster!!
And yeah, work slow. I've been keeping the cutting surfaces slightly coated with WD-40... probably not the ideal cutting fluid, but it seems to work okay.
I didn't realize this many people had done this. If anyone has any before/after dynos they could post, that'd be awesome. I doubt I'll be able to do a good before/after, but it'd be nice to have solid a reference for how this process affects the torque curve, if not just peak numbers.
Quick question on this as I need to eventually remove the VTCS.
Until I find the time and wherewithal, is there a way to set the solonoid to "always open" state?
I have had the MP3 ECU in my Protege5 (flashed) for about a year now. Still needs an SS AFC or similar tune but no complaints other than at cold startup:
Idle is rougher than stock (not that the FS is a smooth motor anyway) - exacerbated by stiffer mounts - and I find the behavior odd two ways (per my understanding):
1) The MP3 ECU doesn't even recognize that the VTCS even exists so as to activate it...?
2) I had a smooth[er] idle before the swap and so rule out anything but the ECU.
Thoughts otherwise?
D
Until I find the time and wherewithal, is there a way to set the solonoid to "always open" state?
I have had the MP3 ECU in my Protege5 (flashed) for about a year now. Still needs an SS AFC or similar tune but no complaints other than at cold startup:
Idle is rougher than stock (not that the FS is a smooth motor anyway) - exacerbated by stiffer mounts - and I find the behavior odd two ways (per my understanding):
1) The MP3 ECU doesn't even recognize that the VTCS even exists so as to activate it...?
2) I had a smooth[er] idle before the swap and so rule out anything but the ECU.
Thoughts otherwise?
D
Outlawstar98
Member
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- 2003 MazdaSpeed Protege / 2013 BRZ
Take the Mani out, take out the vtcs, plug the hole. That's all you ne to do. Can't keep it open at all time.
gato9lives
Member
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- mzda prtge msp
I guess that part of not having time to do it right now escaped the context of the reply, eh? Thanks for reiterating the entire thread.
Thanks. That's a useful reply.
I was thinking about something similar I just wanted to validate it.
Alright i have 2 626 mani's now haha hopefully i'll be throwing one on this next weekend, it oughta be fun
Dimitrios have u tried the zip tie yet? i was also wondering if that would work i might get out there and see if i can figure somethin out like that!
Dimitrios have u tried the zip tie yet? i was also wondering if that would work i might get out there and see if i can figure somethin out like that!
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
Why did you use wd40 for bit lubricant. Horrible. If you use the right oil and take your time you won't kill tons of bits. Aluminum is soft. At the shop I work at we use a honey like substance and its amazing.
