goldwing2000
Turd in the punch bowl
- :
- 2004 Mazda3s Hatch; 269,000 miles
That sucks.
Well, at least you can use it as a spare remote.
Well, at least you can use it as a spare remote.
*UPDATED* Mazda 3 flip key *WORKING*
- Thread starter joepro
- Start date
The jacknife keyfob should have the chip inside it - Australian and JDM-spec Mazda3's come with this jacknife key and they also have immobilizers.
I have two suggestions for you. Here's two sets of instructions I have for programming a key for the Mazda3. The first set is similar to the instructions already posted on the How-To here (but the wording of the timing is a bit different so it's good to have two wordings of instructions to experiment more). The second set of instructions can only be done by a dealer (need to hook up a computer), so maybe you could ask the dealer to confirm they tried this process.
Finally, try starting the car with your new key but over-lay an existing key on top of the new keyless fob (have the existing key facing the little grille-thing on the dash). This is to perhaps trick the car into getting the immobilizer reading from the existing key, so if it starts it confirms the problem is immobilizer and not the way the key is cut or anything.
Let us know how it goes.
--
No.1 Additional Key Registration Procedure (Using Two Valid Keys)
Conditions
Customer has two or more valid keys.
Note
A maximum of eight keys can be registered for any one vehicle. If key registration is not successful and DTC 15 appears even though the procedure was performed properly, use the PID/data monitor function of the WDS or equivalent and verify the number of keys that have been registered.
If eight keys have already been registered, and it is necessary to register other keys, the previously registered key ID numbers must first be cleared. To clear the key ID numbers, refer to "No.3 Key Replacement Procedure (Clearing Previously Registered Key ID Numbers, Key Re-registration)".
Procedure
1. Have one key (key 3) ready for registration.
2. Using key 1, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
3. Verify that the security light illuminates for approx. 3 s and then goes out.
4. Using key 1, turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position within approx. 4 s after the security light goes out.
5. Remove key 1
6. Repeat Steps 2-5 using key 2.
7. Repeat Steps 2-5 using key 3.
8. If additional keys need to be registered, repeat Steps 1-7 in the same manner as key 3.
No.2 Additional Key Registration Procedure (Using the WDS or equivalent)
Conditions
Customer has only one valid key. Or customer has no valid keys. (Can also be performed even if there are two or more valid keys)
Note
A maximum of eight keys can be registered for any one vehicle. If key registration is not successful and DTC 15 appears even though the procedure was performed properly, use the PID/data monitor function of the WDS or equivalent and verify the number of keys that have been registered.
If eight keys have already been registered, and it is necessary to register other keys, the previously registered key ID numbers must first be cleared. To clear the key ID numbers, refer to "No.3 Key Replacement Procedure (Clearing Previously Registered Key ID Numbers, Key Re-registration)".
Procedure
1. Have one key (key 1) ready for registration.
2. Using key 1, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Note
Although the security light flashes and DTC 15 is displayed, this does not indicate an improper procedure. Continue to perform the procedure as indicated.
3. Connect the WDS or equivalent to the DLC-2.
4. Select "Body/Security/PATS function" from the WDS or equivalent screen menu.
5. Perform security access as indicated on the WDS or equivalent screen. (See No.6 Security Access Procedure.)
6. Select "Program Additional Ignition Key" from the WDS or equivalent screen menu.
I have two suggestions for you. Here's two sets of instructions I have for programming a key for the Mazda3. The first set is similar to the instructions already posted on the How-To here (but the wording of the timing is a bit different so it's good to have two wordings of instructions to experiment more). The second set of instructions can only be done by a dealer (need to hook up a computer), so maybe you could ask the dealer to confirm they tried this process.
Finally, try starting the car with your new key but over-lay an existing key on top of the new keyless fob (have the existing key facing the little grille-thing on the dash). This is to perhaps trick the car into getting the immobilizer reading from the existing key, so if it starts it confirms the problem is immobilizer and not the way the key is cut or anything.
Let us know how it goes.
--
No.1 Additional Key Registration Procedure (Using Two Valid Keys)
Conditions
Customer has two or more valid keys.
Note
A maximum of eight keys can be registered for any one vehicle. If key registration is not successful and DTC 15 appears even though the procedure was performed properly, use the PID/data monitor function of the WDS or equivalent and verify the number of keys that have been registered.
If eight keys have already been registered, and it is necessary to register other keys, the previously registered key ID numbers must first be cleared. To clear the key ID numbers, refer to "No.3 Key Replacement Procedure (Clearing Previously Registered Key ID Numbers, Key Re-registration)".
Procedure
1. Have one key (key 3) ready for registration.
2. Using key 1, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
3. Verify that the security light illuminates for approx. 3 s and then goes out.
4. Using key 1, turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position within approx. 4 s after the security light goes out.
5. Remove key 1
6. Repeat Steps 2-5 using key 2.
7. Repeat Steps 2-5 using key 3.
8. If additional keys need to be registered, repeat Steps 1-7 in the same manner as key 3.
No.2 Additional Key Registration Procedure (Using the WDS or equivalent)
Conditions
Customer has only one valid key. Or customer has no valid keys. (Can also be performed even if there are two or more valid keys)
Note
A maximum of eight keys can be registered for any one vehicle. If key registration is not successful and DTC 15 appears even though the procedure was performed properly, use the PID/data monitor function of the WDS or equivalent and verify the number of keys that have been registered.
If eight keys have already been registered, and it is necessary to register other keys, the previously registered key ID numbers must first be cleared. To clear the key ID numbers, refer to "No.3 Key Replacement Procedure (Clearing Previously Registered Key ID Numbers, Key Re-registration)".
Procedure
1. Have one key (key 1) ready for registration.
2. Using key 1, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Note
Although the security light flashes and DTC 15 is displayed, this does not indicate an improper procedure. Continue to perform the procedure as indicated.
3. Connect the WDS or equivalent to the DLC-2.
4. Select "Body/Security/PATS function" from the WDS or equivalent screen menu.
5. Perform security access as indicated on the WDS or equivalent screen. (See No.6 Security Access Procedure.)
6. Select "Program Additional Ignition Key" from the WDS or equivalent screen menu.
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Thanks for all your help on this wongpres.
I was able to start the car overlaying an existing key on top of the new one. So it looks like the issue is with PATS. Why would mazda 3's not use the same system worldwide? It doesn't make sense to me. Perhaps this key isn't for a mazda 3 afterall?
I still wasn't able to program the ECU using your #1 method.
I guess I'll go back to the dealer and have them try your #2 method.
I'm not giving up yet.
I was able to start the car overlaying an existing key on top of the new one. So it looks like the issue is with PATS. Why would mazda 3's not use the same system worldwide? It doesn't make sense to me. Perhaps this key isn't for a mazda 3 afterall?
I still wasn't able to program the ECU using your #1 method.
I guess I'll go back to the dealer and have them try your #2 method.
I'm not giving up yet.
I was able to get the remote to work, but not the key itself. The ECU refuses to recognize it. Both the dealer and myself have tried programming the key and have failed. However, I was able to start the car with this new key, overlaying an original key on top of it (as suggested by wongpres) to determine that the problem was indeed with the immobilizer.
I'm going to contact mazda canada to figure out what's going on and will probably be placing an order for another key. If you look at the picture, you'll see it comes in 2 pieces... The remote and the key.
I'm going to contact mazda canada to figure out what's going on and will probably be placing an order for another key. If you look at the picture, you'll see it comes in 2 pieces... The remote and the key.
joepro,
What is happening to the Security Indicator light on the instrument panel when you're doing the programming procedure for the new key. What I mean is, you have key1 in, then out, key2 in, then out, and when you put key3 (newkey) in, what is happenning with the Security Indicator light (is it blinking extra fast, is it blinking like normal speed, is it compeltely lit, or is it completely unlit)?
What is happening to the Security Indicator light on the instrument panel when you're doing the programming procedure for the new key. What I mean is, you have key1 in, then out, key2 in, then out, and when you put key3 (newkey) in, what is happenning with the Security Indicator light (is it blinking extra fast, is it blinking like normal speed, is it compeltely lit, or is it completely unlit)?
I can think of two more things to try:
1. Make sure you're REALLY quick between removing key 1 and putting in key 2 in (ditto for 2 to 3).
2. Secondly, when you put key 3 in there and it's blinking, wait a while (could be over a minute) to see if it stops blinking (and then remove the key after it stops blinking). But blinking really fast is not a good sign (it symbolizes invalid).
1. Make sure you're REALLY quick between removing key 1 and putting in key 2 in (ditto for 2 to 3).
2. Secondly, when you put key 3 in there and it's blinking, wait a while (could be over a minute) to see if it stops blinking (and then remove the key after it stops blinking). But blinking really fast is not a good sign (it symbolizes invalid).
I tried both methods and both won't work.
I contacted Mazda Canada and this is what they told me:
Joe:
The PATS (passive anti theft system) on the Mazda3 key is encrypted with a
different language than the systems using the flip key.
At this time, we do not have any further information to enable you to adapt
the flip style key to the existing Mazda3 PATS system.
Customer Relations
Mazda Canada Inc.
And this is taken off the Mazdausa.com website:
Will my retractable key work for any of my Mazdas, since the keys look the same?
A redesigned key/keyless entry transmitter has been introduced on some 2005 models (2005 MX-5 MX-5 Miata, 2005 MPV and 2005 RX-8). The redesigned keys/transmitters look similar in many ways, but cannot be interchanged between vehicles or with any other models.
So, it looks like it's not gonna work for now
Maybe I can buy a mazda 3 compatible transponder (not a key, just the chip) and stick in this flip key
I contacted Mazda Canada and this is what they told me:
Joe:
The PATS (passive anti theft system) on the Mazda3 key is encrypted with a
different language than the systems using the flip key.
At this time, we do not have any further information to enable you to adapt
the flip style key to the existing Mazda3 PATS system.
Customer Relations
Mazda Canada Inc.
And this is taken off the Mazdausa.com website:
Will my retractable key work for any of my Mazdas, since the keys look the same?
A redesigned key/keyless entry transmitter has been introduced on some 2005 models (2005 MX-5 MX-5 Miata, 2005 MPV and 2005 RX-8). The redesigned keys/transmitters look similar in many ways, but cannot be interchanged between vehicles or with any other models.
So, it looks like it's not gonna work for now
Maybe I can buy a mazda 3 compatible transponder (not a key, just the chip) and stick in this flip key
- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
damn....alota work for a key....
joepro said:
Received my Mazda 5 key today. The dealer's machine was broken, so he told me to go have it cut at the hardware store. Well, they totally butchered it. Can't even open the doors or trunk with it
(gun)So anyway, I get back in my car and I'm still fuming. That's when it hits me. I can open both keys and switch the blades. As soon as I got home I opened both of them. My suspicions were right: the original key DIDN'T have a transponder in it. The transponder, in the mazda 5 key, was sitting exactly where I thought it should've in the original key.
To make a long story short, I was able to program the ECU and on the first try even.
So there you have it, it can be done. (cool)
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joepro said:Received my Mazda 5 key today. The dealer's machine was broken, so he told me to go have it cut at the hardware store. Well, they totally butchered it. Can't even open the doors or trunk with it
So anyway, I get back in my car and I'm still fuming. That's when it hits me. I can open both keys and switch the blades. As soon as I got home I opened both of them. My suspicions were true: the original key DIDN'T have a transponder in it. The transponder, in the mazda 5 key, was sitting exactly where I thought it should've in the original key.
To make a long story short, I was able to program the ECU and on the first try even.
So there you have it, it can be done. (cool)
Thats awesome! How much was the Mazda5 key from the dealer?
SilentSno said:
Well the key itself was a little bit less than 40$ US. I forwarded the part # to my ebay supplier. So it appears as though the key+remote can be had for 140$. The dealer wanted more than 180$ for the remote only.
- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
Wonder if this works for the MSP
