Twiggy Sticks Install, tuning and results thread

I have a cylinder head on its way this week.
I am hoping to get them installed and get a few other issues addressed.
 
Raven Hawk said:
MZ ZOOM - How many miles do you have on your car? I got the same codes, but I was getting those codes before I put the stix in. There is a known problem with coil packs getting a little frisky around 70k miles. I'm changing out my coil packs this weekend. I also got a "high idle' code, but that really isn't surprising seeing as I idle at 1500, but I think it's from some spacers that I put in on the same day as the cams.
Click to expand...

Just as an FYI - after months of trying to figure out my misfire problem (it was present before the cams went in, but got worse afterward), I finally got my misfire problem taken care of. It was my UDP and had nothing to do with the cams. I put the stock pulley back on and I'm driving fine, but with no low end torque whatsoever. The cams have settled in and my ECU chip has apparently learned what's going on. The loping in the idle is mostly gone, but rares it's head every now and again. The sticks are working like a charm.
 
Crazee D said:
Sweet! Good news!

Any idea why the UDP was interfering?
Click to expand...

The R&R UDP has a stock pulley that has the "tooth plate" bolted too it. The holes that the bolts went through were wearing on the tooth plate and thus there was an incessant rattling coming from it. It was something that I was hoping to fix sooner, but getting the pulley off can be a b**** when you don't have proper tools. As it turns out, the tooth plate would rattle +/- 1/16" and thus at higher revs, the gap in the tooth plate would not align properly causing a multi-cylinder misfire.
 
ran into a minor issue today. need to wait till tomorrow for some shims, lash was too far out of spec. i was hoping that they could just steal some shims out of my complete built head to get it all within spec. that also means that the dyno tune is held off till probably friday/saturday. the good thing is that will allow me to play with the fuel maps before then, that way we can concentrate more on tuning the timing.
 
Raven Hawk said:
The R&R UDP has a stock pulley that has the "tooth plate" bolted too it. The holes that the bolts went through were wearing on the tooth plate and thus there was an incessant rattling coming from it.
Click to expand...

Could you clarify what you mean by this?
Sorry, I must be dense...(deadhorse
I am really interested in knowing since i was planning on having the RR UDP in when my cams are getting installed.
 
closest he could get them had most were 8 thou out or something. the mech was working on another car at the time and i had to inform the dyno about the setback so i didn't get any details. i'll call them up tomorrow and see if i can get that info for you. chances are they won't be the same as yours (tolerances in the head and cams) but it will give you a good ballpark.
 
Crazee D said:
Could you clarify what you mean by this?
Sorry, I must be dense...(deadhorse
I am really interested in knowing since i was planning on having the RR UDP in when my cams are getting installed.
Click to expand...

I'll see if I can get some pictures tonight. But if you take a look at your UDP (unless RR changed it), the tooth plate is secured to the pulley by 3-4 small allen bolts. For those bolts to be able to hold the plate on, the plate has to have some holes in it. It is these bolt holes that were got worn on my UDP.
 
the shims i needed were 4@3.500mm(kj01-12-597), 1@3.450mm(kj01-12-595), and 1@3.396mm(z502-12-593)

i got the car out of the shop. it definately needs some retuning. spent only a little bit of time on it tonight. the idle tends to jump around. when it idles flat @ 1250, she's a tiny bit lumpy. she runs pretty good and smooth from about 2250 to 4500 then it literally hits a brick wall. similar to hitting the rev limiter. it blips lean breifly but would blip a little lean the odd time WOT before the cams. so i don't think the tune is doing it. i'm wondering if the fact that the overlap is setup for FI is causing my issues since i'm still NA.

Lordworm, can you get back to me on what i need to set my cams gears at so the overlap is the same as the NA cams?
 
ctt 1982 said:
the shims i needed were 4@3.500mm(kj01-12-597), 1@3.450mm(kj01-12-595), and 1@3.396mm(z502-12-593)

i got the car out of the shop. it definately needs some retuning. spent only a little bit of time on it tonight. the idle tends to jump around. when it idles flat @ 1250, she's a tiny bit lumpy. she runs pretty good and smooth from about 2250 to 4500 then it literally hits a brick wall. similar to hitting the rev limiter. it blips lean breifly but would blip a little lean the odd time WOT before the cams. so i don't think the tune is doing it. i'm wondering if the fact that the overlap is setup for FI is causing my issues since i'm still NA.

Lordworm, can you get back to me on what i need to set my cams gears at so the overlap is the same as the NA cams?
Click to expand...

In reality - you shouldn't take the thing over 3k rpm until you've put about 500 miles on the cams... they need to bed in...the edges need to naturally chamfer, and the journals need to settle down.

I'm chasing a definative "this is what you do to turn FI into NA and visa versa" answer tonight.
 
Heres your answers guys:

to convert NA to FI:
retard the intake 6 degrees
advance the exhaust 6 degrees

to convert FI to NA:
advance the intake 6 degrees
retard the exhaust 6 degrees.
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
JBL GX600C & GX602 install and initial thoughts - 2016.5 non-BOSE.
Replies
5
Views
10K
GoFrogs
GoFrogs
R
MPG: The Secret to my Success.
2
Replies
32
Views
10K
Traum
T
A
DIY Haltech Sprint500 Protege installation Guide
Replies
19
Views
24K
LinuxRacr
L

Latest posts

Back