Turbo converted protege burning 15w40 oil
- Thread starter NiCeBoY
- Start date
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
Sounds like the turbo seals are leaking, your oil lines are leaking, or bad PCV valve
Your oil is dark because you are overheating it. Overheated (aka burnt) oil loses some of its lubrication. If you don't have an oil cooler, you need to get one. The MSP comes from the factory with an oil to water cooler. Allow the engine to idle a few minutes before shutting it off to allow the turbo spool down and oil to cool. Alternatively you could get a turbo timer to do this for you automatically.
A high quality full synthetic oil like Royal Purple or Amsoil might last longer, but probably would not cure your problem.
Depending on how much boost you are running and the state of your piston rings you could have a higher amount of blow by causing your crank case pressure to be higher than the PCV valve can handle. A lot of the turbo guys have upgraded to the Millenia S PCV valve.
A high quality full synthetic oil like Royal Purple or Amsoil might last longer, but probably would not cure your problem.
Depending on how much boost you are running and the state of your piston rings you could have a higher amount of blow by causing your crank case pressure to be higher than the PCV valve can handle. A lot of the turbo guys have upgraded to the Millenia S PCV valve.
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I am running 11 PSI of boost.
How can i check my PCV valve? where is it located by the way.
The turbo should be allrite as its pretty much brand new, has done less than 3000 kms. but its cheap one off ebay.
So far i can't see any leaks the engine bay is just clean.
My operating Temp of the engine is around 80 degrees. is that good?
Also for the oil, which one you would recommend me? actually i got 15w40 semi-synthetic?
I was thinking of going with 0w40 full synthetic as it'll be winter soon here and it'll be like 2 -3 degrees in the morning.
Penrite, one of the best oil in australia have 0w50 ful syntec.
The specs are here : http://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pdfs/SIN Engine Oil 0 OCT 2010.pdf
here are the range of performance oil that they have : http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/motor-oil/sin
How can i check my PCV valve? where is it located by the way.
The turbo should be allrite as its pretty much brand new, has done less than 3000 kms. but its cheap one off ebay.
So far i can't see any leaks the engine bay is just clean.
My operating Temp of the engine is around 80 degrees. is that good?
Also for the oil, which one you would recommend me? actually i got 15w40 semi-synthetic?
I was thinking of going with 0w40 full synthetic as it'll be winter soon here and it'll be like 2 -3 degrees in the morning.
Penrite, one of the best oil in australia have 0w50 ful syntec.
The specs are here : http://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pdfs/SIN Engine Oil 0 OCT 2010.pdf
here are the range of performance oil that they have : http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/motor-oil/sin
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Your PCV valve is located in center of the the valve cover on the intake side with a rubber hose leading to the intake manifold.
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-check-and-clean-the-pcv-valve.html
80 degrees is a good temp for the water, same as the thermostat. Your oil will be much hotter than this, even with an oil cooler, up to 110 degrees Celsius is considered "normal". A turbo will increase the oil temperature much higher than the stock NA engine.
A full synthetic can withstand higher temps before it starts to breakdown, good for a turbo application.
http://www.carjunky.com/news/motor_oil/mom2.shtml
The Penrite oil specs look very good. In theory a lower viscosity oil will pump easier when cold, especially on an engine with really tight tolerances but I don't think it is necessary with our engines. Mazda specifies 10W30 for the Protege's. I read somewhere that Doc B uses 20W50 in his race car which is turbo. 2 - 3 degrees is really not cold enough to worry about going to a lower viscosity oil.
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-check-and-clean-the-pcv-valve.html
80 degrees is a good temp for the water, same as the thermostat. Your oil will be much hotter than this, even with an oil cooler, up to 110 degrees Celsius is considered "normal". A turbo will increase the oil temperature much higher than the stock NA engine.
A full synthetic can withstand higher temps before it starts to breakdown, good for a turbo application.
http://www.carjunky.com/news/motor_oil/mom2.shtml
The Penrite oil specs look very good. In theory a lower viscosity oil will pump easier when cold, especially on an engine with really tight tolerances but I don't think it is necessary with our engines. Mazda specifies 10W30 for the Protege's. I read somewhere that Doc B uses 20W50 in his race car which is turbo. 2 - 3 degrees is really not cold enough to worry about going to a lower viscosity oil.
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justanothermp5
Banned
- :
- Rust Bucket
ebay turbo, thats your problem. Throw it away
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
Are you beating on the car then shutting it off shortly after and not letting the oil cool down first?
sometimes yes
but even after heavy boost the turbo itself doesnt get really hot. is that because its massive t3/4 turbo?i might give 0w50 a try
you reckon xW40 is better or xW50 ?
Remember my car is not running a stock turbo. its have been converted.
thanks
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
I cant answer your question on the oil weight but the turbo gets a hell of a lot hotter then you think it does if you beat on it. You really should be running full syn oill.
yeah i am thinking to get an oil change soon and get full synthetic..
But i am waiting for someone to advise me on the weight so that i can proceed..
I'll get something off this list : http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/motor-oil/sin
Thanks
But i am waiting for someone to advise me on the weight so that i can proceed..
I'll get something off this list : http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/motor-oil/sin
Thanks
justanothermp5
Banned
- :
- Rust Bucket
let me say it again, its an EBAY TURBO, thats your problem. Running thicker oil isnt going to do s*** if the seals in the turbo are blown. Which they are, because ebay turbos are garbage.
And you should really think about what your doing before putting a thicker oil in your engine, the turbo isnt the only thing using the oil,
how does thicker oil effect the bearings and the oil pump?
And you should really think about what your doing before putting a thicker oil in your engine, the turbo isnt the only thing using the oil,
how does thicker oil effect the bearings and the oil pump?
I work in a turbocharger repair shop. 5W30 or 10W30 full synth is recommended most of the time.
I can make a very educated guess why your turbo is consuming oil. HOT SHUTDOWN!
It's probably not watercooled is it? NOt letting the turbo cool down before turning off the ignition causes heat soak from the 500-1000 degree exhaust components. The heat travels up the shaft and from the turbine housing to the center housing. This extreme heat soak causes the oil to bake (coking) in the center housing, causing the seals to wear, blocking the drain passages and other detrimental bearing wear. Continued hot shut down will cause premature failure every time.
Failures that cause oil consumption 99% of the time.
Any other questions?
I can make a very educated guess why your turbo is consuming oil. HOT SHUTDOWN!
It's probably not watercooled is it? NOt letting the turbo cool down before turning off the ignition causes heat soak from the 500-1000 degree exhaust components. The heat travels up the shaft and from the turbine housing to the center housing. This extreme heat soak causes the oil to bake (coking) in the center housing, causing the seals to wear, blocking the drain passages and other detrimental bearing wear. Continued hot shut down will cause premature failure every time.
Failures that cause oil consumption 99% of the time.
Any other questions?
BoostedPR5
Member
No one asked why the **** he's using 15w40? Christ.
canadian357
Member
- :
- 2003 Protege5, 1987 Honda Accord Type-R(rice)
Off topic but alamo please tell me you have a boosted P5 in Edmonton. I would heart you.
I don't think Jesus has anything to do with it.
Working on it. I have a build thread.
So alamo,
what the proper way to do it ? Because usually my turbo is a t3/4 and it doesn't get too hot.
I am not a turbo expert, but i dont think its watercooled as there is only one oil line going into it.
so off there oil here " http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/motor-oil/sin " which one you would recommend me? the have 0w50 not 0w30.
0w30 ? for winter(2 - 12 degrees) ? how about summer ? because it get pretty hot here, around 40 degrees in summer.
Also dont forget the engine has already done 140 000 kms.
Thanks
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This is what the guy in the performance shop told me to use. 15w40 semi synthetic. i never changed oil since he turbocharged my car.
If you dont have a gauge, you dont KNOW how hot it gets.
How about asking everyone else what oil they run... I plan to run 10W30 full synth.
Keep running what THE GUY told you. But seriously, you have a bigger problem and you better figure it out or you're soon not going to have a running car at all.
How about asking everyone else what oil they run... I plan to run 10W30 full synth.
Keep running what THE GUY told you. But seriously, you have a bigger problem and you better figure it out or you're soon not going to have a running car at all.
do you mean a guage for oil pressure?
For now i just know the engine temp is around 80 degrees while running..
i get it from the ECU when i connect to the laptop.
I asked another mate, he got his protege turbocharged 2 years ago. He told me this is normal that the oil level drop and need topup. and he use GTX magnatec 10w40.
