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- Mazda CX-5 Touring w/bose-tech
check the 'interior lighting' thread, i list some hp festoons from superbrightleds.com that go in the cargo light and is crazy bright (also put them in map lights and they might be too bright for those..)
Trunk light fuse? Need help, not working
- Thread starter bushidoboy
- Start date
check the 'interior lighting' thread, i list some hp festoons from superbrightleds.com that go in the cargo light and is crazy bright (also put them in map lights and they might be too bright for those..)
unknown.man
Member
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- Mazda CX-5
The problem is with the lamp as such. If you have a look from the inside you'll see that the circuit path from the connector on the side of the switch is very close to the opposite connector in one corner. While I was trying to replace the bulb with an LED, it seems that the bulb just fall in that corner and produced a short-circuit. As there is NO fuse for this case the electrical controller taking care of the back part of the care is crashed! The dealer told me that it will cost around 200€ to replace it....
Could imagine some of you just have the same issue.
Could imagine some of you just have the same issue.
puddle.jumper
Member
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- mazda cx-5 touring 2013
i found the interior lighting thread straying off topic back & forth with headlights, which has its own separate thread, causing (currently) 17 pages to go through. so, here's a link to the page stromdriver is referring to (awesome pics & info, btw).link on post #128:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123813273-Interior-Lighting/page9
i'm hesitant in trying this led update myself until the mystery of why this is happening is solved or corroborated independently by others. hopefully not all cases aren't a costly damage due to a fuse-less short circuit like unknown.man is eluding to. in the mazda survey i made it a point to state how dim it is back there.
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unknown.man
Member
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- Mazda CX-5
The problem with the short circuit is that you don't become aware of, because the bulb itself is not damaged by it.
In order to be on the save side just deconnect either the battery or the lamp (be careful not to let fall the cabling behind the plastic covering, where the lamp is placed in), before changing the bulb.
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- Mazda CX-5 Touring w/bose-tech
sorry, its been awhile since i swapped out my bulb, but doesn't the light detach from the wiring via a clip in the side? dont remember exactly, if so just have to warn everyone to detach the housing from wiring before trying to install bulb?
yeah sorry, it had been a long day and was too wore out to go diggin for the actual post in that thread lol there was a good bit of drifting going on though
I actually got an aftermarket LED bulb and plugged it in and it would not light up...... I took it out and attached it to a alternative 12V source and still wouldn't light up, so I got a bad bulb that apparently short circuited the electric module it goes to.....
the dealer is telling me there is a high resistance in the light assembly, well of course the electronic module it goes into got damaged. I am very surprised that there isnt some electrical car code that they are not breaking by NOT having any fuse on the trunk light electrical circuit. Guess the electronic module acted as a fuse, thats an expensive $250 fuse. Silly designers. None of the other lights attached to the electronic module are affected. Unless the electronic module is designed to withstand and absorb the amperage on the lines during short circuiting, if thats the case it failed in my situation. Its only outputting 12V and maybe .3A, so only 3.6Watts, which is barely anything and should have not failed.
the dealer is telling me there is a high resistance in the light assembly, well of course the electronic module it goes into got damaged. I am very surprised that there isnt some electrical car code that they are not breaking by NOT having any fuse on the trunk light electrical circuit. Guess the electronic module acted as a fuse, thats an expensive $250 fuse. Silly designers. None of the other lights attached to the electronic module are affected. Unless the electronic module is designed to withstand and absorb the amperage on the lines during short circuiting, if thats the case it failed in my situation. Its only outputting 12V and maybe .3A, so only 3.6Watts, which is barely anything and should have not failed.
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puddle.jumper
Member
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- mazda cx-5 touring 2013
wow. from the sound of it, that's disappointing and a major oversight how mazda implemented the wiring without any fuse protection in the back. now, i'm wondering about all the wiring in the back and what is fuse-less... eg. trailer hitch lighting and anything else that may connect aftermarket brakes lights, the cigarette accessory lighter back there.
if something goes bad at any later time to let current pass through with an led bulb or other added component, i'm concerned that there's a possibility it can short circuit and cause damage. if that's the case, then one might consider splicing and adding our own separate, inline fuse for added protection.
but, i'm not sure how this could void the warranty if they see this in there and if all it would do is prevent this from happening in the first place. on the other hand, it might be a good idea as a preventative measure if we are replacing bulbs back there.
in the heating mirrors thread they mentioned the workshop repair manual was quoted at $210 and that there is a separate wiring schematics manual -not sure of pricing on the latter. in my former vehicle, all that was in the workshop repair manual. it's sad that mazda didn't keep everything in one book. pricey to buy at least two things for reference purposes for scenarios like this one.
if something goes bad at any later time to let current pass through with an led bulb or other added component, i'm concerned that there's a possibility it can short circuit and cause damage. if that's the case, then one might consider splicing and adding our own separate, inline fuse for added protection.
but, i'm not sure how this could void the warranty if they see this in there and if all it would do is prevent this from happening in the first place. on the other hand, it might be a good idea as a preventative measure if we are replacing bulbs back there.
in the heating mirrors thread they mentioned the workshop repair manual was quoted at $210 and that there is a separate wiring schematics manual -not sure of pricing on the latter. in my former vehicle, all that was in the workshop repair manual. it's sad that mazda didn't keep everything in one book. pricey to buy at least two things for reference purposes for scenarios like this one.
Got my car back after 6 days in the shop.
They detailed the interior and used the most experience mechanic, outcome met my expectations.
Electronic module was bad, no surprise.
Final cost to Mazda, under warranty, was $160 parts + Labor ~ $300 plus cost for 4 days of rental car use.
Glad to have my car back! (I hated driving a Mazda 6).
They detailed the interior and used the most experience mechanic, outcome met my expectations.
Electronic module was bad, no surprise.
Final cost to Mazda, under warranty, was $160 parts + Labor ~ $300 plus cost for 4 days of rental car use.
Glad to have my car back! (I hated driving a Mazda 6).
MazdaNordic
Member
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- 2009 Jaguar XF
Got the same issue on my car now after replacing bulb with LED.
Measured output to 7.2V but its not enough to make bulb light up properly.
Guess my module is dead also now
Measured output to 7.2V but its not enough to make bulb light up properly.
Guess my module is dead also now
so basically they knew they were being gamed and just couldn't prove that it wasn't a defective Mazda part that caused the problem:
Dealers always get a negative reputation for trying to rip people off yet this is hundreds of dollars in expense to the dealer and Mazda for a failure that was caused by something that you did. I know.... corporate America is evil so it is okay taking money from them...
I don't see any point in the transaction with them where you said to them "hey, I was putting in an LED light and the thing just quit working?" and yet you badmouth them for taking too long to diagnose the problem when they didn't have all the information on what happened.
same problem here already posted else where, I got lectured, "disconnect battery" for all bulb changes or audio work, or all electrical work. these new cars with all these controls are sensitive. I guess is known, I'm just too lazy and worked on other mazdas, subi, bmw and audi's w/out disconnect never had issues.
No, this is an utterly ASININE design on Mazda's part, so sticking them with the replacement cost is absolutely appropriate. Nothing states that you can't replace the bulb with an LED equivalent, and in NO WAY should we expect that doing so would cause an expensive module to fail. To me this is an abject failure on the part of Mazda - they put in an incredibly substandard light for the rear cargo area, and then doing anything with it causes a serious failure? That's Mazda's fault - not ours.
let me get this correct. I messed with the vehicles electrical circuit and blew a fuse or module and then expect to have the company pay for my screwup and corporate America and companies are greedy? Maybe a good way to approach this is to admit I was trying to make the dark luggage compartment lighter by replacing the bulb and I must have blown something. Can you help me out here?
ChrisPeach
Member
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- 2008 Mazda 6 Sport TD
Hi, I'm new to this forum. I have the same problem on my 2008 mazda 6. Trunk light not working ever since I put a voltmeter across it, in preparation for doing an LED upgrade. Can those of you who had to have a "module" replaced to fix this problem confirm whether it was the BCM (body control module), or was it something else? I'm trying to source the replacement part and need to know where to start. Thanks.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
'Murica,land of the entitiled.
howlin4you
Member
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- 2014 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD
I'd like to take this comment, blow it up in big letters like the Hollywood sign, then dance naked around it because it's just that good.
Bottom line is this, if you don't understand some basic electrical theory DON'T MESS WITH YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM!
