Trick to Removing the Factory Rotors?

[fezzik5+6]

2009 Mazda5 Sport, with the 40k and the original brakes.

I've just spent an hour with penetrating oil and hammers (rubber mallet, then 4lb. hammer) trying to take the front brake rotors off. I've got the AllData instructions, and there really shouldn't be anything holding them in place once the wheel and brake caliper have been removed.

I tried bashing in circles, alternating sides, whacking from under the car at the inside. Nothing moved. I've got the new rotors in front of me, and there's nothing there that can be screwed down.

Am I missing something? Is there a hidden rotor screw somewhere? I've damaged the rotor surface now, so the car is headed to a shop to have a professional attempt it.

 

[X-Tanker]

Mine were rusted on there really hard, also. Took quite a few whacks with a 6lb mini-sledge. Trashed the old rotor in the process, but it eventually came off. There are no hidden screws or anything, just need to keep at it.

 

[Davebert]

Another trick is to use two bolts, put them through the 2 holes on the bracket that holds the caliper. Put a nut on the otheside and tighten the bolts so the end of the bolts are pushing onto the rotor. Once you have enough tension on the 2 bolts give it a few good wacks with a large hammer and it should pop off. If not, back off the 2 bolts and rotate the rotor 180 degrees and repeat.

 

[MarkVII88]

About a month ago I did a complete brake job (rotors and pads) on all 4 corners of our 2008 Mazda5 with 62K miles. I was replacing the original factory hardware. I too had a helluva time getting the front rotors off and I used plenty of penetrating oil and a 4lb. hammer. Eventually, the disc portion of the rotor completely broke off the central hub-mount portion of the rotor and I could pry it off completely with a claw hammer. I've included a couple photos below. Interestingly, the rear rotors came off surprisingly easy after the ordeal up front. Before I reinstalled the new rotors on the wheel hubs I used some sandpaper on the wheel hub to remove any rust or corrosion and I used my finger to put a light coat of high-temp anti-seize around the outside perimeter of the wheel hubs where they contact the rotor itself. I'm not planning on having to replace brakes again on this car but whoever comes after me ought to have an easier time of it.

 

[fezzik5+6]

Thanks for the replies, after seeing what's necessary I'll be a little firmer with the next try.

 

[thaxman]

2009 Mazda5 Sport, with the 40k and the original brakes.

I've just spent an hour with penetrating oil and hammers (rubber mallet, then 4lb. hammer) trying to take the front brake rotors off. I've got the AllData instructions, and there really shouldn't be anything holding them in place once the wheel and brake caliper have been removed.

I tried bashing in circles, alternating sides, whacking from under the car at the inside. Nothing moved. I've got the new rotors in front of me, and there's nothing there that can be screwed down.

Am I missing something? Is there a hidden rotor screw somewhere? I've damaged the rotor surface now, so the car is headed to a shop to have a professional attempt it.

My trick is to not drive it in NE. Mine came off as if it just left the factory. Snow/salt/sand = enemy of cars.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Another trick is to use two bolts, put them through the 2 holes on the bracket that holds the caliper. Put a nut on the otheside and tighten the bolts so the end of the bolts are pushing onto the rotor. Once you have enough tension on the 2 bolts give it a few good wacks with a large hammer and it should pop off. If not, back off the 2 bolts and rotate the rotor 180 degrees and repeat.

We had a former member by the SN the.jack from upstate NY that tried this. The rust was so bad, trying this ended up bending the ears that mount the brackets! I too tried it and felt uncomfortable with the “lack” of movement and decided to back out. I could also see/sense the impending destruction of the mounting ears.


@OP - BHF, penetration oil, and keep going at it. My only pointer is to focus on hitting at it from the front until it is completely loose. Hitting from the back is useless b/c the backing plate/dust shield is in the way and you only have a small opening to target. You also cannot swing very hard or accurately over your head; worst if you are lying on your back. Above all, I later learn an equally important tool, to me, that was missing were ear plugs! The metal to metal banging was too piercing loud for me and hurt my ears but that's a personal thing.


Here it is. Post #11 is good advice!
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ks-to-FoMoCo-for-its-quality-parts&highlight=

 

[1987cp]

Sounds like it's good preventative maintenance to pop the rotors off early in the car's life and apply antiseize all over the face of the hub?

 

[steadypimpin]

Sounds like it's good preventative maintenance to pop the rotors off early in the car's life and apply antiseize all over the face of the hub?

haha yeah it does.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Sounds like it's good preventative maintenance to pop the rotors off early in the car's life and apply antiseize all over the face of the hub?

Yes but it becomes a slippery slope. At what point do you stop removing factory stuff and pre-treating it for the easier “next time”? One could argue that you will need to replace rotors/pads but you can also argue you may/may not have the car (life events change quickly: accident, promo = new car, extra babies, etc.). Point is, don’t worry about it b/c when time comes, it can be done.

 

[thaxman]

Sounds like it's good preventative maintenance to pop the rotors off early in the car's life and apply antiseize all over the face of the hub?

I just looked at this a little closer & I have some concerns. It is important to know that the studs and lug nuts ARE NOT what keep the wheel on the car. It is friction. The studs/nuts keep the friction of the wheel against the rotor and that's why wheels don't fall off. In the same respect, friction is part of what keeps the rotor from sheering the studs off the hub. Adding anti-seize to the formula is likely going to reduce that friction. I would say that if you have winter tires, that every time you switch from winters back to summers, that you pull off the calipers and break the rotor off the hub. That will reduce the rust buildup and will still keep the friction needed to keep your hub/wheel setup safe.

 

[twintrbo]

Uh....what? The lug nuts hold the wheels on. Thats why they are torqued to a specific spec and the only thing that needs to be removed to take them off. The lugs go through the hubs and then the lug nuts squeeze the whole package together. Nuts hold the wheel/rotor/hub together as if it were one piece. The tolerances are tight so that there is no play in the assembly and things stay lined up which will ensure there is no wobble which will cause vibration. The center of the wheel fits tight on the hub so that it centers it and thats why it doesn't fall off immediately when the lugs are off. Friction is a side effect of the close tolerance, not what was intended to hold it all together. A light lubricant, as long as its not on the stud, wheel or nut will not make it any less safe. That being said, I would not try removing the rotor just to keep it free, you could easily cause fatigue cracks around the rotor hat without realizing it and weaken the rotors. Ive seen rotors come apart while trying to remove them with the screw holes through the rotor hat. I agree with silent, leave it be until its time.

I just looked at this a little closer & I have some concerns. It is important to know that the studs and lug nuts ARE NOT what keep the wheel on the car. It is friction. The studs/nuts keep the friction of the wheel against the rotor and that's why wheels don't fall off. In the same respect, friction is part of what keeps the rotor from sheering the studs off the hub. Adding anti-seize to the formula is likely going to reduce that friction. I would say that if you have winter tires, that every time you switch from winters back to summers, that you pull off the calipers and break the rotor off the hub. That will reduce the rust buildup and will still keep the friction needed to keep your hub/wheel setup safe.