Well I installed this yesterday after work. the panels were a pain to get off, because I didn't have any real directions and had to keep going to get tools. In terms of installing the trailer hitch wiring, here is what I did as a synopsis:
Curt wiring harness kit: Includes everything but I did use 5 extra, large-format zip ties.
Tools: small screwdriver (very small), medium screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver, 10mm socket wrench, utility knife
The harness basically is plug and play, you don't need any wire cutters, or anything, unless you want to get fancy with it. I'll explain later. Ok from memory:
First you need to remove the cargo floor. there are I think 8 screws just behind the seats that when tugged on firmly enough, will pop off.
Then you take out the two foam tire wrap compartments for the jack, etc. - place them aside.
Pop off rear trim cover along bumper. There are two pushpins on the inside bottom corner, use small screwdriver or nail to pull up center and then pull it off - vertically.
Pop off the left and right side panel that is just behind each tail light. Use small screwdriver. I found popping the bottom corner off first was the best.
On driver side un screw each the 10mm bolt that holds the two tie downs (one under tail light, one just behind seat) - remove only the rear one on passenger side (pop off trim tab with very small screwdriver)
Pop off two pushpins on bottom inside edge of each rear large panel
pop off trim tab inside each side's seat release and unscrew the screw (Phillips). On driver there is another screw a bit more forward under middle of window
pull driver side panel off enough to get in there, don't pull too hard to dislodge the rear cargo light wiring
disconnect the two larger plugs, push the tab in middle and lightly tug on the wires, comes off easy.
plug in the Curt wires here that have the two "T"s (four plugs total) into each the 3-plug and 4-plug connectors
Unscrew the ground bolt just forward and down from the light screwed into the sheetmetal. add the Curt white wire with ground ring terminal to it and screw it back in.
Undo the rubberbands and run the green wire with the last "T" to the passenger side.
Loosen passenger side enough to feed the green T connectors up and back out the panel hole behind the light.
Disconnect and connect the T to the passenger side rear light (4 way or 3 way I don't remember, only one fits)
Push the passenger panel back in being sure not to pinch the green wire but take as much of the slack you can because you need it to feed around the hatch to the driver side
I zip tied the green wire to the black-wrapped wiring running around the hatch - up to you - don't do it if you don't have extra zips?
peel off one side of stickytape and place onto back of Curt control box
Test fit the control box with the panel being pushed most of the way back in so you know where you put it will be out of the way so you can put the panel back in
(**I put the controlbox on the underside of the taillight metal housing - seemed to be a perfect spot)
Make sure the wires are not tangled and the green wire reaches properly, no kinking
Stick the box on to the car.
Secure loose wires for any rattling with the remaining zips
Take the 4-plug trailer connector and decide what you want tto do with it at this point (here's where I used extra zips)
I pulled out the 2" dia rubber grommet just behind the wheel well (driver side) and used the utility knife to cut a 3/4" to 1" long slit across the side and jammed the head of the 4-plug connector through it and fed it down and out of the vehicle. Then I used 5 extra zip ties - large ones - to zip it and secure it to the hitch so I can plug the trailer in from the outside. I secured the end so it was right by where the 2" center mount is but hidden just behind the bumper.
Reassemble everything and put your crap back in your car, done.
All this took me about 90 mins. but I had to figure out how to get the panels off, etc.