To be honest, boiling brake fluid is a thing of the past with these modern calipers. They keep the fluid well away from the brakes pads.
Europeans are kinda' bonkers about brake fluid flushes (IMO). Seems like every time I turn around it's time for a flush on my wife's Z4 BMW. And yet you guys don't bother to rotate tires. Go figure!(shrug)
These are safety and preventative maintenance items, I do not think I would classify them as RIP OFFS. You do not have to do these things, just realize that you will not get full service life, or optimum performance out of the related components if you skip these maintenance items.Perhaps both procedures i.e. Brake fluid change and tyre rotation are a ripp off things. You guys get skinned on the rotation and we get skinned on the brake fluid. That makes us equally gullible. BMW charged me 200 euros for brake fluid change once every two years. The fluid costs only 5 euros. The dealer is the winner here.
Just read a similar diskussion on brake fluid change requirement in a Swedish forum and the expert opinion was that checking the boiling point on reservoir fluid does not say anything about the moisture content in the fluid downstream so change it every two years to be safe.
Thanks to all here I have today replaced by brake fluid. The canister is a real pain to take fluid out. Anyways I used a standard DOT 3/4 fluid.
- Removed old fluid as much I could using turkey baster
- Put in new fluid
- Let it rip from passenger rear bleeder, easy to open
- Son pumps brake, a little more bleed.
- Close bleeder - move to next wheel
- Then driver rear wheel and repeat above steps
- Front passenger wheel
- Front Driver wheel
- In between my son kept filling when the canister went low
Then - I decided to clean all the brake pads and proceeded to do so. Overall it took me 2.5 hrs. Calipers were stuck for both rear wheel. I have more than 8 mm. life left in pads both sides, either axle. Inner pad in every axle has less than outer pad. Rear axle shows more usage than front axle.
Yes - I did follow instructions in another thread regarding EPB @ maint. mode.
Test run: No perceptible change detected yet but I always tend to overdo with the lubrication (fat fingers) and usually I've seen a difference after a few days when the extra lubrication goes off the rotors. The pedal however got less mushy.
Starting 2016, the rear differential oil composition has changed. There's no need to replace every 30,000 miles but inspect only. However, as given in the schedule if submerged or witnessed high dosage of snow - then it's better to change it. Next: if vehicle is being planned to be retained/actively used beyond power train warranty then replace but never flush ever 30,000 miles.
Ditto: Transfer oil. The new rear differential oil is twice capable than the old one, details of which are proprietary supposedly. Upon asking he confirmed there's absolutely no issues for pre 2016 CX5 to use this new oil however the older generation oil should NEVER be put into 2016 and beyond.
Changing your fluid is important, but every 24k is super excessive. Every 60k sounds good to me.
If you have 60k or more, changing your brake fluid and flushing to remove air will make the pedal more firm.
It’s got nothing to do with what sounds good to you. It’s what is documented with good reason that matters.
(scratch)Changing your fluid is important, but every 24k is super excessive. Every 60k sounds good to me.
If you have 60k or more, changing your brake fluid and flushing to remove air will make the pedal more firm.