the Stance Thread v2.0
- Thread starter Antoine
- Start date
INeedMoarLow
Member
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- slammed 02 protege5
Allot of love is all it'll need haha I'm going to go old school hammer and dolly and some heat of course but idc about the paint it's getting fully redone after the body work, thinking of doing 23g any thoughts?
INeedMoarLow
Member
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- slammed 02 protege5
Thank you for the offer man I got a heat gun and I don't think a roller can push out the fender above my d-bills lol if I hammer up and out it will force the bill into a large flareProtege03ak46:5951406 said:
civickilla03
Member
sry man metal doesnt stretch, it will not smooth out.
the only way to fix your quarter is to pie cut, straighten the cuts out best you can, re-weld and body filler, or do what circuit said.
unless you've been doing body work for years there wont be much you can do with a dolly, heat gun, and hammer.
AND also, just because you dont have money from your parents, doesnt mean you cant research what your doing, and put some real effort behind it.
jumping into a project blind will give you results, done by a blind person.
the only way to fix your quarter is to pie cut, straighten the cuts out best you can, re-weld and body filler, or do what circuit said.
unless you've been doing body work for years there wont be much you can do with a dolly, heat gun, and hammer.
AND also, just because you dont have money from your parents, doesnt mean you cant research what your doing, and put some real effort behind it.
jumping into a project blind will give you results, done by a blind person.
INeedMoarLow
Member
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- slammed 02 protege5
You are very right metal does not stretch but by pushing the furthest in portion of the current flare out the outer portion with be forced back down to counter the space being used. I know the body will be far from factory stamped perfect lines but with time and moderate body filler I can get it pretty nice. I've done autobody schooling, including fixing minor dents with hammer and dolly, paint prep and painting the whole car. I know I can't work miracles but I'm not going in blind.. Like I said with the flares I was doing what I was told worked and that's the result I got, nothing I can do but work with it
civickilla03
Member
cant really answer that, check the first page for a ballpark estimate
civickilla03
Member
ok well i can tell you this, they can fit, the 9 +23 will poke about 7-9mm more than my current set up and the + 30 about 10mm less
i think circuit is the closest to it maybe in size. But i dont know if the p5's have the same wheel wells as the sedan.
FamiliaSpeed03
Member
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- Mazdaspeed Protege 2003.5
What suspension is stiffer bc or ksports and what are there manufacture spring rate on both thanks
funkalicious21
Member
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- Mazda Protege 5 Turbo
If you want stiff springs then don't do neither. From what i hear, I heard that swift is the way to go. If you do a good amount of research I'm sure you'll find plenty of options.
BC's hands down so far in all around quality. No complaints here for having it for almost 5 years.
BC's hands down so far in all around quality. No complaints here for having it for almost 5 years.
Last edited:
funkalicious21
Member
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- Mazda Protege 5 Turbo
17x9 +23 offset will need a a good roll and a slight flare. It's highly advised to go with a 205/40 if you have 17" rim. The stretch will make the whole process a lot easier to get to where you want to be. +23 offset is pretty aggressive if you do not have the AAC Rear Link Kit, but still do able. From my experience, 17x9 +35 only needs a roll and fits perfectly with minor camber, 1-3 negative*(varies with stretch).
FamiliaSpeed03
Member
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- Mazdaspeed Protege 2003.5
I have both but I have 17x9x75 on fender flare with -6 camber rear and I hit
INeedMoarLow
Member
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- slammed 02 protege5
16x8 +0 would be the equivalent of 16x9 +25 correct? Or would it be +13 cause if its +25 then +32-+37 would be perfect for a p5 with roll and camberfunkalicious21:5953098 said:
lax22pearl
Member
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- '08 MS3
