The CX-5 LED Lighting Thread

Suddueth13, thank you for the feedback and confirming my fears.

Of the three options you outlined, the most palatable for me would be #1, as long as it:

a) meets or exceeds the OEM halogen performance
b) is not unsafe
c) can be focused and aimed such that it does not blind oncoming traffic

To be perfectly honest with you, the aesthetics and light colour of xenons are almost as important to me as the light output. If I don't get inferior performance or light output compared to the OEM halogens, I would be willing to go with a quality kit.

Are there any distributors you, or anyone, can recommend for a 'quality kit' like you referred to?
 
Suddueth13, thank you for the feedback and confirming my fears.

Of the three options you outlined, the most palatable for me would be #1, as long as it:

a) meets or exceeds the OEM halogen performance
b) is not unsafe
c) can be focused and aimed such that it does not blind oncoming traffic

To be perfectly honest with you, the aesthetics and light colour of xenons are almost as important to me as the light output. If I don't get inferior performance or light output compared to the OEM halogens, I would be willing to go with a quality kit.

Are there any distributors you, or anyone, can recommend for a 'quality kit' like you referred to?

People here may tell you not to get the aftermarket plug and play kits. I got one on my wife's CX-5 and love it. I also had the same kit installed in my wife's Mazda #3. Never had issues, or people flashing their high beams at us. I would NEVER get them on a car with reflectors instead of projectors, since then it scatters everywhere and the light output is probably s#it.

Below pics: The first two are with the left light being stock halogen and the right replaced with HID. The last one is both replaced with HID.

There is a little bit of scatter, but as I said I have never had anyone flash me due to it being irritating to other drivers. I got mine from DDM tuning. This is the 2nd kit I got from them and my buddies also got a couple, and so far, we have not had any issues.

garage_attachment.php

garage_attachment.php

garage_attachment.php
 
Does anyone know if LED technology has reached the point where they could be used for low beam or high beam headlight function and if so, if such a product even exists?

There are LEDs that seem powerful enough for the job and are meant as plug-and-play replacements to standard halogen, but the question is how they affect beam pattern. These have been out for only a few months, and very little info/testing is available right now. I've started a thread recently here, but I've had no luck so far...
 
^thanks for the tip on the load resistors. is there a guide on how to install these? i ordered a set of these before with the bulbs for the switchbacks turn signal LED and have no idea how to hook up the plastic piece and wires it came with..
 
I assume you bought 6ohm load resistors since you're only replacing the front with switchbacks.

*For the switchback, there will be three wires. Two positive, and one negative for each light.
*The positive between the other positive and the negative will be specifically for the turn signal. That is the one you will be tapping.
*The resistor should come with two wired ends.
*Use the wire tap on one end to the positive you will be using (middle), then tap the other end of the resistor to the negative.
 
DRL confusion

So I bought a pair of LEDs to replace the running lights. Weirdness ensued. The replacement LEDs didn't light up, the originals didn't either after I replaced them. I started the 5 and went through all the light selections and couldn't get the DRLs to light.

Thoroughly confused, I decided to check the fuse block and found that the fuse for the DRLs is not installed in my car. No 15 amp fuse in 51 (no 15 amp fuse for replacement either, check yours), so even though I thought sure I'd seen them lit before, now I don't know.

I have the grand touring with the tech package with the HID lights.

Thanks in advance for your counsel and your patience.
 
In Australia we have different models so I'm not sure what your supposed to have. But I would check:

*Does it light up when you turn on the headlights?
*Does it light up when you turn on the high beams?
*Does it light up when you turn on the fog lights?

*Check the fuses in the engine bay to see if any are blown
*Check the fuses near the inside footwell to see if any are blown

*Also some leds are single polarity, try turning them the other way around to see if that works
 
Last edited:
So I just bought a set of these Camaro style, JDMTOY "18-SMD 3 Chips 360-degree shine P13W LED Bulbs For 2010-2013 Chevy Camaro Daytime Running Lights (DRL) or Fog Lights" in place of the other JDMTOY lights to replace the filament bulbs in my HID CX-5. No dice. They didn't light and now the originals don't light up either.

Finding the fuse hasn't been fun either. The fuse slot listed in the owners manual is empty. So even though the HID projectors still work the DRLs are powered from another circuit. Very strange.
 
The HIDs power up just fine. So do the amber marker lights. Just the DRLs that are dark. It's been too cold to stand outside and ponder the fuse block for too long, and I'm afraid to pull them out willy-nilly. I don't want anything else to reset.
 
The techs do not use the DRL fuse because in the tech the DRL replaces the standard headlight (I'll double check tomorrow but I'm certain that is the case). I use cree LED's and didn't have any issues.
 
old diagram I made (stock 4300 hids)


4300k oem hid replaced with 6khid (6k hid matches white 5k LEDs, 5k HIDS are yellowish, barely different from 4300)
 
What make and model D4S?
dang I can't find/remember the website where I got them; it's been a few months. I believe it was like 60 or 70 for the pair.

edit found it in my PP history. http://www.hidautovision.com/
bulbs I got
don't order 5k HIDS; they are not much different than the 4300k.
get familiar with the clip holding the bulbs if you plan to change it without removing the bumper (and IF your wrist will fit, I can provide pics of the clip). Best bet is to remove the bumper so you don't bend the clip and make your lights sit loosely, or fumble and drop the bulb into the headlight housing.
 
Last edited:
Bought a set of 7443 Plasma LED replacements. Came in yesterday and I've been having issues with them. When only one LED bulb is plugged in and the PARKING light is on (dim setting), the LED bulb will not light, but the other incandescent side will. When the brakes are depressed, Both will light accordingly. When two LED bulbs are plugged in, they will light in a dim setting via the parking light and will brighten with brakes depressed, unfortunately the THIRD brake light remains lit without the brakes even depressed. It is the LED bulb's issue and will perform just fine when swapped to factory incandescent bulbs.

I am trying to figure out the problem. May be due to low resistance, but brake lights are recommended not to have load resistors on them. It may also be due to the fact that the 7443 LED bulb SHOULD BE a dual circuit bulb like the factory incandescent, but it is a single circuit (like 7440 for signals). I am leaning towards the latter. Might try it with 6ohm load resistors and see what results I get. Just a tip for those trying to replace their brake lights.


These are the LED's I got. Plenty bright and even just like incandescent... Very unfortunate.

mmjQ3xGfbIIeJcXNY4p1_2w.jpg
 
Bought a set of 7443 Plasma LED replacements. Came in yesterday and I've been having issues with them. When only one LED bulb is plugged in and the PARKING light is on (dim setting), the LED bulb will not light, but the other incandescent side will. When the brakes are depressed, Both will light accordingly. When two LED bulbs are plugged in, they will light in a dim setting via the parking light and will brighten with brakes depressed, unfortunately the THIRD brake light remains lit without the brakes even depressed. It is the LED bulb's issue and will perform just fine when swapped to factory incandescent bulbs.

I am trying to figure out the problem. May be due to low resistance, but brake lights are recommended not to have load resistors on them. It may also be due to the fact that the 7443 LED bulb SHOULD BE a dual circuit bulb like the factory incandescent, but it is a single circuit (like 7440 for signals). I am leaning towards the latter. Might try it with 6ohm load resistors and see what results I get. Just a tip for those trying to replace their brake lights.


These are the LED's I got. Plenty bright and even just like incandescent... Very unfortunate.

mmjQ3xGfbIIeJcXNY4p1_2w.jpg

Yea, brake lights were only lights I didn't swap to LED because I was worried about the running vs brake engaged light output. I could not find much information and I didn't want to not have brighter lights when braking. I'll update if I can find something. That is weird the light stays on.
 
Bought a set of 7443 Plasma LED replacements. Came in yesterday and I've been having issues with them. When only one LED bulb is plugged in and the PARKING light is on (dim setting), the LED bulb will not light, but the other incandescent side will. When the brakes are depressed, Both will light accordingly. When two LED bulbs are plugged in, they will light in a dim setting via the parking light and will brighten with brakes depressed, unfortunately the THIRD brake light remains lit without the brakes even depressed. It is the LED bulb's issue and will perform just fine when swapped to factory incandescent bulbs.

I am trying to figure out the problem. May be due to low resistance, but brake lights are recommended not to have load resistors on them. It may also be due to the fact that the 7443 LED bulb SHOULD BE a dual circuit bulb like the factory incandescent, but it is a single circuit (like 7440 for signals). I am leaning towards the latter. Might try it with 6ohm load resistors and see what results I get. Just a tip for those trying to replace their brake lights.

These are the LED's I got. Plenty bright and even just like incandescent... Very unfortunate.

mmjQ3xGfbIIeJcXNY4p1_2w.jpg
Did you try reversing the polarity?
I had the same issue with the 7443s I got too. I reversed the bulb & they lit up.
But after driving, they would get loose. Some how they would not stay connected to the contacts inside the sockets & would not light up. Gave up & bought a pair of Sylvania Silverstar incondicent bulbs & they were brighter than the LEDs, lit up the housing more than the SMT LEDs.
 
Reversing the polarity did not make a difference. Upon further examination, they are actually 7440 single circuit bulbs, not 7443 required for the brake lights. Dual circuit 7443's can be used in both 7440 and 7443 applications, but 7440 cannot be used for 7443's.. I have contacted the seller of the bulbs for false description in the product listing. Demanding a full refund or an exchange for REAL dual circuit 7443's.

If for whatever reason I do not get an exchange or refund, I'll simply use these as rear turn signals and swap out my 6ohm load resistors (switchback LED fronts currently) for 3ohms if I decide to run 4 LED signals (excluding the mirrors of course). Or I'll just sell them for what I paid for minus shipping and lose out on a few bucks...

Sucks because these LED's are actually nicely built, as bright if not brighter than incandescent, and fit the housing just fine (to my surprise). Hopefully the seller can resolve the issue and exchange for a 7443 unit. So much for getting excited and swapping them in at 12:00AM when it was 10*F out...
 
Last edited:
Reversing the polarity did not make a difference. Upon further examination, they are actually 7440 single circuit bulbs, not 7443 required for the brake lights. Dual circuit 7443's can be used in both 7440 and 7443 applications, but 7440 cannot be used for 7443's.. I have contacted the seller of the bulbs for false description in the product listing. Demanding a full refund or an exchange for REAL dual circuit 7443's.

If for whatever reason I do not get an exchange or refund, I'll simply use these as rear turn signals and swap out my 6ohm load resistors (switchback LED fronts currently) for 3ohms if I decide to run 4 LED signals (excluding the mirrors of course). Or I'll just sell them for what I paid for minus shipping and lose out on a few bucks...

Sucks because these LED's are actually nicely built, as bright if not brighter than incandescent, and fit the housing just fine (to my surprise). Hopefully the seller can resolve the issue and exchange for a 7443 unit. So much for getting excited and swapping them in at 12:00AM when it was 10*F out...

Did you purchase with paypal?
 
Back