The Brakes I chose to buy....

xitoxic

Member
Contributor
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2003 Protege5
so ive been needing new brakes terribly and from looking around and a past thread i've posted, i was going to get slotted and cross drilled rotors with pads. But i just got regular blank rotors with pads because everyone with cross drilled rotors say they wear away way to fast on a daily driver. but this is what i got: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

any opinions? all the reviews said the are a good company
 
Looks fine and my last set of brakes/pads was bought from that same seller. had no issues with sale . FWIW, i had cs rotors and hawk pads for 75k with no issues so not everyone had issues with cs rotors on a daily driver. i wasn't easy on them either. bought them again too. just make sure to bed them in properly because that is what makes a big difference to them lasting or not.
 
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as far as i understand you just take old ones off and put new ones on. but is there anything i have to put on the new rotors or calipers before i install? i think someone mentioned lock tight or something?
 
as far as i understand you just take old ones off and put new ones on. but is there anything i have to put on the new rotors or calipers before i install? i think someone mentioned lock tight or something?

It would not be a bad idea to get new clips and pins for the calipers/pads. You'll have them all apart and the old ones may be broken or brittle so it's a good time to change them out. As far as lock-tight, never used the stuff on a brake job before but I do use anti-seize on the caliper bolts.

FWIW, I used to run Brembo cross drilled rotors on my DD RX-7. Never had an issue with wear. I just (finished today in fact) put a set of slotted rotors on the P5.
 
Go to the How-to section and read up on installing pads, especially with the rear. It's a little tricky. You should also get some grease for brakes and lube the slide pins on the calipers, the clips for the pads and the edges of the pad backing (DO NOT GET ANY ON THE PADS THEMSELVES OR THE ROTORS). I also like to put anti-sieze on the back of the rotor section that contacts the hub to keep that easy to get off.
 
okay thanks guys for the help. ill do all that when the brakes come here. but a off topic question, i posted a thread and no ones replying....the piece on the back hatch door that the key hole is on and its right below the mazda symbol. where the handle is, how do i take that off? theres two bolts but it seems something else is keeping it on. sorry if this is against the rules, i just want a quick answer before it gets dark
 
okay thanks guys for the help. ill do all that when the brakes come here. but a off topic question, i posted a thread and no ones replying....the piece on the back hatch door that the key hole is on and its right below the mazda symbol. where the handle is, how do i take that off? theres two bolts but it seems something else is keeping it on. sorry if this is against the rules, i just want a quick answer before it gets dark

remove the liner on the inside of the hatch and find the other bolts. there are iirc 2 on the side near the latch and 1 on the other side plus clips.
 
its very yes

you can see the bolt holes and the spots the clips go through.
19hatchprimed.jpg


and heres the trim piece to give you an idea what the back side looks like.

28daycarwastowed2-1.jpg
 
Don't forget to clean the rotors with brake clean.

Mom moms vibe has had drilled eBay rotors for 3 years now and they're fine even with runing full ceramic pads and around 40k miles
 
ok thanks tweety. but i got it off guys, i painted my valance with plasti-dip last week and i wanted that painted too, it looks good :D
 
Been thinkin about doing the rr valance and hatch handle myself........wey da pics iz?
 
ohh i know, some kid who just got a license got whole of his daddys truck with a hitch and backed into me. I'm going to temporarily fix the problem this week. haha
 
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