Teeson's Probege Build Thread

ya its going fine, the clutch is like 2k km break in now, is managable. Having 2 weird issues though, It like hesistates under partial throttle (i.e. casual 1st and 2nd gear), I'm ordering my tach tonight (I hope) so i'll have a better idea where the problem is.
I also may have the OBD2 figured out, my dads scanner turns out to be defective. So he bought a cheapie $40 one so I have to try it again.

defs got pulled over when showing off what a pretty noise it makes, too pretty I guess. Got off with a warining..
On a simliar note gas mileage has been in the toilet, though I'm having too much fun to care :)
When the tach is in, I'm gonna take it to the local drag strip. I have a buddy with a '91 CRX that I need to beat, We've been speculating whos faster since before I started the swap.
my car is like 3000 pounds and has 170 ish hp, his is probs like 2400 pounds and he says 160 hp, but that seems high (even after driving it) for a single cam 1.6L honda with minor build up. My car also has major traction mods on his, and he still has snowies :D

I'll post time slips when I get em!
 
it might be a VRIS problem
and you should be able to beat a CRX

hondas dont have power his might have 130 ponies but they have transmissions built very well for the horsepower they have so they can be quick but you shouldn't have a problem and you shouldn't shift past of 4th


something that might help your gasmileage,

the ecu is a selflearning ecu
if you want to reset it disconnect your neg terminal for 10 secs
reconnect, start your car and let it warm up to normal operating temp
and let it idle for 5 mins once its up to temp

thats the proper way to tune the ecu and might help you get better mileage

when i had the auto ecu i was getting 22 mpg
it just dumps gas
the mtx the lowest ive gotten is 24.9 mpg
 
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noted. I pretty sure I'll take him :D

So I had put the 12V to ECU and sensors wire on an ignition wire, not a constant 12V. I realized this a little while ago and finally got around to fixing it today, and holy cow its better! mostly its better because the wire I had originally used was not that big, I think this was leading to inadequate power for the sensors giving false readings. The ECU being able to store things has helped some too. My fuel economy appears to be better just on the drive home from work, but it smells even more rich than it did before. My check engine is now staying on though, and flashing every now and then.. I need to get the OBD2 connector working, tried the other scanner and it still doesn't want to work.
And does anyone know the colour of the reverse light wires? I had cut them off with the rest of the old engine harness and now I don't know what they are under the hood. Testing this is really difficult without them working.
 
did you get your tach in yet?

nope. I had some unexpected bills... if I sell a bit more old parts I should be able to order one up.
I also changed the ECU's 12V ignition to a relay, because the wire I was using before wasn't turning off when I took out the key. It's been driving good for 2 weeks or so now, getting around 25mpg. Still haven't find the reverse trigger.
And apparently the scanner I was borrowing from my dad is broken. So I may have done something right all along.

lol It's not too interesting anymore, all the fun of swapping is past. The weathers kinda been bad to race it, its been rained out for the last two times.
 
rain sucks

and ive looked for the wiring for the reverse lights and stuff and i had no luck

just bought some new tires and if i get the intermediate shaft i may hit up the drag strip

but that shaft is hard to get
 
Ya the exhaust and most of the passenger side suspension get to come off.

What kinda tires you get?

thanx anyway, I'll just have to keep trying. Maybe i'll get lucky and find the plug the next time I'm at a junkyard
 
yellowsea 205/40/17 they are great
smoother ride, less noise, grip like no other if i get my intermediate shaft problem fixed
im hitting the drag strip this month
i start my new job jun 13 so lately it has been work on car everyday
once i get a few paychecks saved up ill revive my build thread with a rebuild
im going to do a tear down and build up hopefully
and something i found out today... if you jack the front of my car up and start it, the wheels spin when its not in gear
and i have 0 transmissions problems took 3rd gear up to 85-86 and put 4th over 110 mph (whistle).... not on public roadways of course....(shady)

im also giving up on a tach fix and im going to order the damn dakota digital tach interface
 
and something i found out today... if you jack the front of my car up and start it, the wheels spin when its not in gear
and i have 0 transmissions problems took 3rd gear up to 85-86 and put 4th over 110 mph (whistle).... not on public roadways of course....(shady)

im also giving up on a tach fix and im going to order the damn dakota digital tach interface

ya I learned that too, sometimes mine only spins 1 wheel, even after the LSD. Ya lol ive been up to like 180 km (like 110) with steam to go apparently. Its just not safe to explore those limits short of a airport runway or something.
Ya Dakota digital would appear to be the only way.

quick update: I think I blew a coilover! gonna investigate today
 
update.

Photobucket sucks. It has dead-linked every photo of mine, in all threads. Am choked.
Did an oil change today, switched to mobil1 synthetic.
Coilover's not blown but the boot covering the shaft has slid off making a rather annoying noise over bumps.
Rear brakes are seized, looking into getting the Mazda6 ones. I'd like to buy the kit that AAC is doing, but I need rears and cheap.
 
just get some junkyard mazda 6 ones and bummer about your coilovers i hate the random noises my car makes over bumps
body creeks, hatch cover makes a sound, and so much more
 
I'll be looking at some brake upgrades after I get the suspension settled and the snail kit all installed and tuned. That's a fair amount of time away though.....

What's the process like to mate the Mazda6 brakes to the Protege5 spindles and rears? Difficulty rating on a 1-5 scale?
 
I'll be looking at some brake upgrades after I get the suspension settled and the snail kit all installed and tuned. That's a fair amount of time away though.....

What's the process like to mate the Mazda6 brakes to the Protege5 spindles and rears? Difficulty rating on a 1-5 scale?

it's bolt up. i have mazdaspeed 6 calipers I'm selling currently.
 
Ya they bolt up. I want to be able to fit the 16" wheels I have on it, so the speed brakes are out. I'm still trying to track down a mazda6 that still has its brakes at a yard.
So she was running beautifully after an oil change, so I sayz to myselfz, "well I guess the kinks are out, I can go back and fix those little wiring things I wanted too". Nope, after unplugging the bat its back to lagging and surging. fml. It was probably 1200km between resets when it was doing fine. What I'm trying to do now is figure out why it was running great and now not. Engine bay looks good and clean now, still working in locating the correct wire in the cabin for reverse. Ran my own, got sick of trying to figure out how the stock one worked, what a hassle.

Oh and on a side note, I beat my buddy with the rex! mind you not on the strip and he had all the advantages, still beat him through 2nd tho.
 
I have a hunch, or 2 hunches.. I started filling with 91 now and that really seems to help her run smooth.
Call me crazy but is it possible that because the ECU I have is a KLY2, which is for california's emissions standards, is also tuned for warmer weather? It runs smooth when it's warm out (by warm in BC I mean 20C) , and then crappy when it cools down. This is the only pattern I've noticed... Am I crazy? Does these cars have a ambient air temperature sensor?

And as promised I'm 2 steps away from having a wiring guide, just have to figure out the best way to format it..
 
i didnt know you had a cali car
is everything cali emission specific?
i would check all the differences and i did the HEI with external coil today and damn I can tell a difference, so much better throttle response when I get on that and ill be hooking up a air fuel gauge to see if i can see a visible differnce
im hoping for better gas milage

updates?
 
Well took it down to the drag strip yesterday, got 6 passes in.
Met a guy who has a KLDE swapped 323 and is a friggin KL genuis! First guy I've met in person who knows more about KLs than I do, so I had a lot of questions for him lol. We set my timing which helped the shuttering on the way home (he had the same problem once), and I think theres a vacuum leak somewhere. It goes away when one opens the VRIS 1 switch, so it must be a manifold leak... gotta investigate more.
Anyway we grudged matched all night, the announcers learned we both had the same engine, and loved our close battles. He was running his AutoX slicks and is way lighter, so his 60' was generally better. But towards the end of the night his tires were too cold, so that gave my street tires a chance. I beat him on my 6th pass ever which I'll post up the slip of.

I started the night with this:
(forgive the copy and paste, photobucket is no longer trustworthy.)
R/T .695
60' 2.933
330 7.743
1/8 11.320
MPH 70.67
1000 14.351
1/4 16.872
MPH 90.43

now I had a horrible launch, and botched the 1-2 shift.
By the end of the night I was running correct timing, 15psi on the fronts, doing burnouts to clean off my tires, and had learned the tree a little better. And no bad shifts.

R/T .183
60' 2.356
330 6.509
1/8 9.902
MPH 73.54
1000 12.848
1/4 15.323
MPH 90.78

My best trap was 91.01, far from what I'd hoped but not bad all in all. I tell ya, the noise made by 2 KLs being worked hard like that is just amazing :D
 
@jed

The timing change really seemed to help, and if I can find that vaccum leak it should stop the lopey idle when its hot.

And ya the KLY2 is specific to cali emissions spec, thats the only difference I can confirm... I don't think I'm too off base, but the tune isn't the problem.
Minus my racing, the gas mileage has definitely gotten better with 91, like 30 to 40% better.
 
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