ssinstaller
Member
- :
- 2006 MazdaSpeed 6
TCE Front and Rear big brake kit installed
The instructions that came with the kit were great. Most of the info here is copied directly from TCE's instructions. I should have more pictures and another write up of the rear install later this week.
The instructions that came with the kit were great. Most of the info here is copied directly from TCE's instructions. I should have more pictures and another write up of the rear install later this week.
[*]Secure the car on proper stands.
- Never work under a car only supported by a jack.
- You can buy a cheap set of jack stands at autozone for about $20.00
[*]Remove the factory caliper and hang to the side for now with the hose still attached to it.- The factory caliper is held on by two 17mm bolts behind the rotor
[*]Remove the factory rotor(and dust shield if you car has them, mine didn't)- Even thought the TCE rotor is much larger, it isn't heavier than the stock rotor
[*]The uppermost dust plate boss must be notched for bracket clearance-this can be done with a hacksaw.
[*]Place the TCE caliper bracket on the INBOARD side of the steering knuckle and slip the supplied round spacer between the bracket and the ears of the knucle. The short leg of the bracket will be at the bottom. Secure in place with the supplied metric bolts, nuts and washers, torque these bolts to 65lbs.
[*]Install the Earl's caliper adaptor fittings into the calipers with a small amount of teflon tape or pipe sealant on the pipe thread and securly tighten into the caliper body. The conical end of the fitting is for the brake hose end.- The fitting should be tight with about 1/2 of the threads into the caliper
[*]Place the TCE hat/rotor onto the hub and secure in place with a couple of lugnuts to prevent it form dislodging from the hub.
[*]Place the proper calpier(bleeders pointing up) over the rotor.
[*]secure the calpier to the mounting bracket with the supplied SAE bolts, washers, and nuts. Little fingers help with getting at the nuts. Tighten them to 45lbs after the following step.
[*]Check the caliper centering on the rotor and use the supplied shim pack to properly center the caliper or mounting plate as needed. Final fit on center is not overly critical, however shims which are fit must be the same size on top and bottom to insure caliper is not mounted at an angle, and mounting bolt length should be dounble checked when complete.- I needed to use about 1/8" of shims on each side to space the calipers farther outward, the calpiers centered perfectly with the shims.
- The Wilwood caliper is at ALOT lighter than the stock caliper
[*]Caliper to mount and mount to steering knockle allow for a bit of radial adjustment, rotate the rotor to be sure there is no rotor to caliper bridge contact and if there is; loosen one or both pair of mounting bolts and 'pull' the caliper out from center a bit and retighten.- I didn't have any problems with clearance at all
- You will need a 3/16" allen wrench, and an 11mm socket to tighten the retaining bolts.
[*]Remove the factory caliper and rubber hose from the car at this time, using the proper line or flare wrench on the hard line fitting.- A set of metric flare wrenches is alot cheaper than replacing a destroyed factory hardline.
[*]Fit the TCE hose end (-3 AN) to the caliper adaptor fitting installed earlier and tighten 'snug' but not extreme.
[*]Check the 'flow or lay' of the hoses and rotate them as required by turning the hoses on their crimp ends, if need be they can be rotated by very carefully and lightly holding them with a pair of pliers-do not damage the crimp area by crushing or use of vise grips.
[*]Final hose fit can and should be checked with the wheel back on the car, and the car on the ground to be sure the hose is clear of all potential danger.
[*]Double check all hardware and fittings.
[*]Bleed the brakes
[*]Refit the wheel and torque to manufacturers spec.
Last edited: